|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|April 26th, 2016 09:12 AM|
Originally Posted by ford20 View Post
I'm sure there has to be a reason, but wow. I really want to know what their reasoning is between the varying torque numbers, and their decision to use all different size bolt heads O.o
|April 24th, 2016 05:37 PM|
|1996 GT||This is still awesome.|
|April 24th, 2016 12:36 PM|
This happened on Wednesday the 20th, but I have just been so slammed at work that it has taken me a while to get this all written up.
First things first, I needed to get the car washed. It had been sitting outside for about 6 or 7 months since its last wash and was look pretty crappy, so I gave it a bath and realized how much correction I am going to have to do to this car once I get it back. It is bad!!
Although it does look good in the shade!!
I also got to cleaning my wheels with Polish Angel Mint+ and I have to say HOLY CRAP!! I used nothing but the Mint+ on one wheel and went through too much product doing it that way, but the wheels came out amazing! The pictures don't really do it justice IMO.
You can see how nice the face of the wheel looks compared to the barrel of the wheel before cleaning it.
Don't mind the black mark, that is just old glue from the old wheel weights. The wheels looked unbelievable when I was done with them. Like they were brand new, I was impressed.
Even though I have been told by a couple of people that I didn't have to worry about supporting the front of the transmission, I figured it best to do so. I just grabbed a 2x4 and some zip ties and supported the front of the transmission.
I have a new slave cylinder so the old one will be replaced shortly. I loaded up the trunk with everything I could fit in there and then put the driveshaft and over axle pipes in the back of the pickup, ran down to U-Haul and grabbed the trailer. I have to say, it certainly was an adventure getting the car onto the trailer but it went on haha.
Me and my buddy Franky Lap (Paladin LL 06) got up at 5 to bring the trailer down to JPC in Maryland. It is about a 4 1/2 hour drive from NY down to there. The only issues was that a cable snapped on the Delaware Memorial Bridge and they only had one lane open so it took us 2 hours to go all of 8 miles which sucked balls. We should have been down there at around 9:45, but got there at 11:30 instead.
We got down there and Aaron was nice enough to give us a tour of their shop and I have to say that this place is the real deal. The amount of cars they have there and the projects they had going on was crazy. They had a couple cars getting some hellion kits installed, one S550 was having his motor rebuilt looking for a 4 digit power number, another one was getting the rearend tubbed so he could tuck 315s under the fenders, one was a turbo or twin turbo lightning, they just did a GT500 with custom grind cams and finished the tuning on it a few days before hand, then he went on pointing out the cars they had there saying this is an 8 second car, that is an 8 second car, 8 second, 9 second 3V, 8 second cars here there & everywhere! Jeff Polivka's Boss was getting some work done to it and looking for win #2 in Maple Grove, Jesse Porter's GT500 was there with the exhaust coming out the hood which was badass! John Kauderer had his Cobra Jet there, Lance Rainey had his Boss at JPC for some work (You might remember him from the GTR vs. Boss 302 video that caused a lot of butt hurt GTR fans), Clint Bates was getting his Blue Boss worked on with a setup that was similar to Jeff Polivka's if I am remembering correctly. TJ Lapinski had his Coyote swapped New Edge there for some work. Ronnie Reynolds car was just hanging out in the background. They had everything there, a bunch of coyotes, a couple 3V's, a classic (67 IIRC), some GT500's, a lightning, a few motors being built (my motor, 2 other coyotes from what I can remember, I thought I saw a 2V there as well but I'm not 100% certain about that), they had a Viper, a SRT8 Grand Cherokee and a Dakota pickup as well. They work on anything and everything! Tommy was wrapping up some of their turbo kits for shipping and everyone was pretty busy. I wish I took some pictures though. This was the one that Franky got after we unloaded the car.
They have the most badass Boss on the planet there so lets hope that when they are done with it, mine will be the most badass N/A Boss as well. Now we just play the waiting game. They had a few cars to finish up before Maple grove along with the cars that were there before me. I am just waiting on D Mark Performance to send me back my intake manifold so I can get it back down to them for the motor.I told them that I would like the car back before Carlisle this way I can finally have it back. I don't want to have to go to Carlisle again without my car. It really sucked the first time. I will have them do 2 tunes for me. One, 93 octane w/ cats and the second E85 without cats for my racing tune. I'm probably conservatively expecting like 520-530 on the 93 tune, but if I can get 580 out of the E85 tune I will happier than a pig in shit for sure!!
|March 29th, 2016 11:40 AM|
Hey guys, so there really hasn't been much progress on this since I was working on allocating the funds for putting the motor in the car which got sidelined when I got pretty sick. Since my car has been sitting for so long I definitely needed a new battery and I wanted to go ahead and go with something a little bit lighter than stock. JPC Racing built this really cool looking and functional battery tray and breather combo right here and used a Braille B2015 battery.
Considering I already have my Peterson Breather Can, I couldn’t justify spending all of the money on the new setup right away. I might go ahead and grab it in the future, but as of now I couldn’t do it. So I went out and bought the same Braille B2015 battery which should be perfect for what I will use it for. It is very small and compact and only weighs 15 lbs. which will save me about 16lbs. off the front end and have enough CCA to get the car up and running without issue. The problem is that the battery is MUCH smaller than the factory battery so I would have to fabricate a way to keep it in place. Since weight savings is life bc racecar I decided to make it out of Carbon fiber. So I went out and bought a 12” x 24” sheet of Carbon fiber and some carbon fiber 1” angle to make and reinforce the battery box with. After taking my measurements I went ahead and fabricated the box. Here it is with the front and back all mocked up followed by the sides.
In order to cut the carbon fiber I used a hacksaw and a tungsten carbide blade as it will not cause the carbon fiber to chip or splinter as you cut it like it would with a wood cutting or metal cutting blade. You should also wear gloves and a long sleeve shirt when cutting carbon fiber as in my research, it is very much like fiberglass as the particles can get stuck in your pores and cause all sorts of itching everywhere and it is a worse sensation than fiberglass is. Also, some sort of mask would be advisable as well as safety goggles just in case. I’m still sneezing Carbon Fiber dust out of my nose 4 days later so it would be a nice thing to have thought about at the moment.
From there I cut the bottom of the carbon fiber piece to fit in the battery tray to give it a sort of finished look to it. After a lot of sanding I got it to sit nice and flat in the tray
I still have to cut the bottom try so that I can put the bolts in and take them out with ease as well as cut the insert for the nylon strap to go through since I am changing the way it mounts. I am thinking of mounting it to the battery tray down here with 2 rivets in the same way that the factory strap is mounted assuming I can fit a rivet gun in that space so that the rivet is mounted directly to the strap the way it is from the factory.
I ended up buying these rivets from McMaster-Carr and looking at the material thickness range I think I will be in good hands considering the plastic at that spot I believe is .118” judging by the plastic closest to it where I could take a measurement and the nylon strap is .074-.080” so with any luck this will work. This rivet appears to be almost the same rivet used ts the factory except that the factory one has a large washer for lack of a better term built into the back of the rivet where this one doesn’t.
Anyway, I got the box all mocked up and grabbed my 3M 110 Epoxy and started epoxying the Carbon Fiber angle onto the sheets of Carbon Fiber. I opened up the box a little bit more to allow the battery to be put in easier so there is a little bit of a gap where you can see the carbon fiber angle, but nothing too bad. Here is where I ran in to a bit of an error as per the norm with me. When I got my epoxy, they sent me a mixing nozzle for a 200ml tube which has a large round ended hole when I actually got a 50 ML tube which has a rectangular attachment that fits into a slot. So I ended up modifying it and it sort of worked. The epoxy barely made it through the tube before leaking out on me so I aborted that idea and cleaned everything off. So I went to the Home Depot and grabbed some Loctitie Epoxy which has a mixing nozzle in it that is a similar mounting design, only problem is that it was too small :/. So I finally got the correct ones from the vendor yesterday and went ahead and started epoxying all of the pieces together. Today I will go ahead and finish the supports for the bottom so that I can mount it to the bottom tray once I cut all my holes and put the strap into the battery tray etc.
---------- Post added at 11:40 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:39 AM ----------
In other news, if you remember I had the rusting issue with some of the items on the inside of the engine, so I went ahead and sprayed them down with some WD-40 and used a brass wire brush to remove the layer of surface rust that I had on those parts and so that I didn’t do any to damage any of the aluminum parts on the engine or the engine itself.
Sorry no after pics haha.
Everything came out looking perfect so I went ahead and grabbed my front cover and VCT actuators and installed those. It was a very easy process although I couldn’t find any torque specs on them so I used the German Specs for the Actuators.
These are the actuators that you have to use with the wiring harness that I got from Ford Racing. They were from cars built after 2/27/12 so they looked different than what I had previously in my engine since it was built on 12/30/2010.
So once I got those bolted in I went ahead and grabbed my gaskets for the front cover and put them on as such:
Then I went ahead and put the engine mount brackets on the engine as such since you have to use a combination of studs and bolts. I will get the part numbers for the studs and for the bolts when I can get my notebook back since I sent it down there with the engine so they can use that for reference. I think the front cover & the engine mount brackets are two of maybe 15 items that aren’t brand spanking new for this engine. That is one reason why this has been taking so long to get done. Damn near every nut, bolt and whatever else has been bought from Ford or JPC so that added to the expense for sure.
Here it is in all its glory! I wish I took a picture of the front cover with all the bolts in the correct place as it took me a while to figure out where they all went from a variety of pictures, but these are just the 8 10mm bolts that are installed along with the 2 studs IIRC.
From there I put the engine on the pallet and screwed it into the wood than strapped it to the pallet and sent it down on one of our trucks that was heading down to DC. You could throw this thing off an airplane and the motor wouldn’t budge haha.
So the motor got to JPC and they got to work on it. The intake cam was degreed correctly and the exhaust cam was off by a few degrees if I am remembering correctly. They said that the motor rotated freely and they had no issues so I have no idea what the heck the case was. I swear to God this thing stopped rotating on me. The good news though was that it rotated freely without issue. I just spoke with Eric and the motor is now done so I will have to figure out how to get my car down there. I tried renting a trailer from UHaul and they said my truck wasn’t good enough to tow my car so I will have to find another trailer to tow it down there soon.
|January 29th, 2016 06:57 PM|
Wow Brother you are takin' a beating, God Bless you.
If you did not force anything with a lot of tq ( big long wrench/ cheater I 'd say you didn't bend anything)
You are not alone, iI have been balking on swapping a 2014 TVS Supercharger 'n' injectors on my '08 GT500.....It runs really well right now and I don't want to give rise to self-inflicted wounds/ headache's...
I dont know how to subscribe to this thread, but I would like to follow on
Hope with some patience and time it will all come together
|January 20th, 2016 10:42 PM|
Sorry to hear dude. I can't even imagine the frustration and dissapointment.
I guess in hind sight, you're able to bring it to the best coyote/roadrunner shop in the country. Hopefully no damage to the motor at all. Good luck man
|January 20th, 2016 11:40 AM|
|maxgst||damn man, awesome thread with bittersweet ending. I hope you can get it figured out.|
|January 20th, 2016 10:17 AM|
|TCStang||Damn man that sucks. I'd be so frustrated.|
|January 20th, 2016 09:25 AM|
Yeah ..... About that whole breaking things thing this was where I had left off.
I ended up talking to Eric over at JPC before they left for the NMRA race at Bowling Green in the beginning of October about degreeing the exhaust cam. He ended up telling me the process to get them degreed and I got the exhaust cam all situated and degreed in after about 5 or 6 hours on Saturday the 3rd. On Sunday the 4th I came out side and started getting my baseline measurements. My neighbor came over and started asking me about the cams to see if I had it figured out since he helped me get the intake cam degreed. I guess I had thought I tightened everything down because I started turning the motor over but then after a while I realized that the cam had spun to the other side as the bolts on the phasers were now on the far right side of the phaser instead of the far left where I had set it. I stopped and put the cam back in the position as it was before and went to go get the measurement again but this time I was something like 12 degrees off of where it was before it spun. So I turned the motor over to make sure the timing marks all lined up and they all did, except for the left secondary chain so EVERYTHING had to come back off. I pulled everything off and retimed the motor and went to go degree my intake cam again. The motor then began to bind up but then it just stopped I turned it in the other direction and it began to bind up again and then it stopped.
In all honesty, I can't tell you the feeling of defeat I felt at that moment. I stopped what I was doing and put the bag back over the engine and walked inside. I just sat down and that was it. I was done for, lost all motivation for finishing my car for awhile. I spoke with JPC and they will finish the motor for me. I have to talk to them about bringing the entire car down and having them finish it all off for me. It would have been a cool feeling to have done it myself but I think I am over my head now. I hope I didn't bend a valve or crack a piston or something.
After owning the car for 2 years and 5 months a for a year and 4 months, the car has been without an engine not to mention 8 months prior to that it was barely driveable with CPS issues and VCT actuator issues and random misfires and phantom CEL's so I just want it done and over with to be honest. Thankfully I have the winter to get everything taken care of though.
|January 4th, 2016 03:12 AM|
Jesus dude you poor bastard! Breaking everyrhing, can't find the right bolts. I feel for you man!
Glad it's coming together, car looks good. I may have missed it, is the motor all done? Looking forward to seeing her running!
|December 6th, 2015 12:16 PM|
|2012Boss||this thread! half way through. really detailed!|
|December 2nd, 2015 05:42 PM|
I wanted to change up the front end a little bit and I remembered seeing a set of headlights that AM and LMR had sold so I went looking for them. I found them on LMR, or so I thought. They were supposed to look something like this according to their webpage:
When I received them they looked just a wee bit different:
Not only were the lenses black black, they didn't properly fit! Notice the large gap between the headlight and the grill -_-
Anyway, I figured I would pull the black lens off and swap it with my factory clear lens since the internals are all black with clear turn signal lenses. So I pulled out the factory headlights and turned the oven on and set the temperature to 235 degrees. While I was waiting for the oven to preheat I removed the rubber gasket for the headlights.
Once I removed those, I ended up putting the headlight in the over for 10 minutes. I was wearing my work gloves but you could still feel the heat as you were prying off the lens. I ended up putting it in for 2 cycles at 10 minutes each and finally the lens popped off to reveal the lights.
In order to get all of the rubber out, I threw it back in the oven for another 10 minutes and it all easily came out without issue. I grabbed the rubber butyl I bought and began putting it in the recess where I removed the old rubber. Granted this stuff is a little thick at 3/8" but if you stretched it a little and pinched the bottom it went in without issues not to mention I have so much left over. This is what I used:
Made in America
From this point I grabbed my factory headlight and turned the oven up to 275 and put that one in there. After 3 rounds of 15 minute intervals I was able to get the lens off and put it on the new headlight housing. After squeezing it in together by hand I put it in the oven at 275 for 7 minutes and took it out again and clamped it down.
As you can see I only had one pair of vice grips so I had to improvise a little.
Anyway, as I let that one sit for 45 minutes I went to work on the second factory light. Remember when I said I can break anything
I had the entire lens off except for that one corner .... FUCK
I bought a factory lens off of ebay with a tab missing for $55 shipped and went along my way. I got the second headlight a few days later and without much, if any difficulty it popped out and went back on easy peasy.
It looks like with the factory lenses in there the gap is smaller so I think I am ok with it now and it isn't going to drive me crazy. Maybe it will but who knows. After about 3 going on 4 days of rain, the headlights have held up and I don't see any fogging inside of the housings so I think I am pretty good on this setup. I like them, they add a small distinct touch and a bit of the blackout look without going overboard IMO. Now I just need to get Amber turn signal lenses.
---------- Post added at 05:42 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:00 PM ----------
In the mean time I spent about 3 weeks tracking down the bolts for the Laguna Seca splitter. When you look up the kit that FRPP sells it lists them as 20 M8x25mm bolts. I went around looking for M8 fine thread x 25mm countersunk bolts and was sort of laughed at when I kept asking because turns out nobody has them. I went to one place who did have them, but they said they had to order them from the UK and it could take 2 or 3 weeks to get them. So I turned to Amazon and found some! I ordered 20 of them and in a couple of days I checked the tracking. It turns out that they are shipping from the UK as well
2 weeks go by and I get the bolts ... turns out they are WAY too big.
So, I run to The Home Depot and look at their selection of bolts and I think I found them in 1/4" x 28 x 1" using their little bolt measuring thing. I go to my local hardware store since they have just about every bolt in SAE and grab 20 of those. I get home and wouldn't you know it, they don't fit. Wrong thread size Fucking piece of junk bolt measuring crap never works. I even threaded it in 98% of the way down by hand without issue.
Well I run down to work and dig through our boxes of spare hardware from all of the European furniture and low and behold M6 x fine thread x 20mm bolts. So I grab them and head home hoping that they are the right thread size!!!!! Hallelujah!!!!! I put everything together and now the car looks complete finally! For the first time since like Last November the car finally looks like it is complete.
I ordered some brake cooling duct hose from Pegasus Auto Racing since the old one got chewed up something fierce by the splash shields so that should be here before the weekend hopefully. I also got some new Vinyl for the grill since I did a horrible job on it the first time which is another weekend project . I will have to pull one of them out and run to Metrix and grab the correct bolts and replace all of them but at least I have everything correct except for the length which will be corrected soon hopefully!
|December 1st, 2015 05:52 PM|
Originally Posted by TCStang View Post
---------- Post added at 05:52 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:51 PM ----------
Originally Posted by 01KenneBellGT View Post
|December 1st, 2015 04:56 PM|
|01KenneBellGT||That gonna be a wicked ride man!|
|December 1st, 2015 04:07 PM|
|TCStang||When are you going to have it on the road again?|
|December 1st, 2015 11:50 AM|
I guess I will just make this my general build thread from here on out. As I said before, I think that I can break just about anything. When I went to go put on my blowfish tow hook I ended up breaking one of the bolts from the Laguna Seca bracket while taking it off the car. It looks like someone replaced it at one point since I only had 3 out of 4 bolts installed and the 3rd bolt that I broke was a different kind of bolt all together.
If you look at the bolt heads, you will see that 2 of them are painted that brown primer color while the broken one isn't and even the bolt itself is different. I'm not sure if that is by design but it looks like the bracket was replaced at one point.
The install is pretty straight forward, you basically center the bracket up and line them up in the recesses in the bumper bar and you can bolt the two halves together.
Since I have a 2012 I had to use the supplied spacer along with the longer carriage bolts.
Oh, and I ended up braking a bolt from the blowfish hardware -_-
I sent a message to Steve and within like 4 minutes he sent me a message and we talked about and said he was going to send new hardware out on Monday. I got the in hardware in a couple of days and I was back in business. He even sent me two new bolts and inserts for the top of the mount which was very nice. The customer service from my side of things is absolutely excellent with Steve, I would HIGHLY recommend the blowfish bracket. It appears to be very well constructed and the hardware seems to be of pretty good quality (despite me breaking one) and the powder coating on this is very nice! I bolted everything up and used Blue Loctite #242 on all of the bolts for a little bit of extra security.
On the 2010-2012 with the Boss 302 front valance you have to cut a hole in it so that the tow hook assembly can fit through the bumper. It is pretty easy though so no big deal here.
Old vs. New
|September 30th, 2015 07:56 PM|
|JJrocks44||That looks sick, hope everything goes well|
|September 30th, 2015 12:33 PM|
Great build Sean.
I think it should run pretty well, your attention to detail looks good from my end.
|September 28th, 2015 05:58 PM|
|craigh4575||its gonna be sick man!|
|September 15th, 2015 09:12 AM|
|ford20||Thanks man, I am actually up to degreeing the cams, I just never have acess to a computer or else I would have updated it even further.|
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