|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|September 9th, 2015 02:17 PM|
still no codes?
I would try cleaning the air valve. Brake cleaner works, just get it dried out when done
Did you ever confirm the MAF?
What ecu did you have? Confirm no chip?
Might try setting idle another 50 rpm higher...
|August 30th, 2015 02:59 PM|
So after replacing the spark plugs today Autolite 3924 and I gapped them at .049 and changed the oil as it seems my oil keeps getting black every 500 miles.
I wanted to try something out so I let the car stand still at idle while I turned the AC on to rev it a little then the car would die. Without the AC on the car would not die but hold a stead 800 rpm.
So I disconnected the IACV and with the AC on I gave it a few quick revs and the same thing happened again the car died. So I plugged the IACV plug back in with AC still running and gave it a few quick revs the and rpms droped really low about to die then 5 seconds later it did die.
So my solution is the IACV is bad since its not holding a solid idle under engine loads such as the AC.
|August 27th, 2015 02:15 PM|
|August 24th, 2015 03:19 PM|
Took the car out for a spin over the weekend and the car shut off 3 times on me while coming to stop within 2 miles. Every time I pushed the clutch in, the RPM's would dip real low then shoot back up. It would only do this when I have the A/C turned on but won't do it with it off.
I checked my IACV and unplugged it while the car was idling and the idle did not change at all, stayed at a steady 850RPM. Does this mean it is bad?
Would the IACV cause my motor to shut off while the A/C was on coming to a stop?
---------- Post added at 07:19 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:06 PM ----------
The car also has started the hanging high idle for the past 2 weeks. I would come to red light and the RPM would not drop below 1400 RPM so I would have to shut the car off then crank it back up because it was so damn loud and people are looking at me crazy.
|August 20th, 2015 05:14 PM|
|calister622||I will take a look at it and report back. Thanks for the help guys!|
|August 20th, 2015 09:20 AM|
If you have a C&L with no sample tube, then you will want to fix that...
If it has a sample tube, it should be color coded on the flat end, or measure with calipers. You should be able to confirm for your application on C&L's site.
|August 17th, 2015 10:18 AM|
|calister622||The car isn't throwing any codes. Sorry I am new to this but what is a sample tube? When I remove the MAF its just a round block of metal with the little wires hanging on the inside and the connector attached to the top. I measured the round opening of the MAF housing and inside to inside was 73mm. The sensor itself has the "Ford" serial number for the stock 5.0 sensor, the original one that came with that car.|
|August 16th, 2015 02:57 PM|
Are you getting any codes?
You very well could have the correct sample tube for 21's. Have you checked what sample tube you have in the MAF housing?
|August 15th, 2015 05:56 PM|
Ok, now it seems if its not one thing its another. Coming home from work yesterday sitting at a red light the car starts doing the damn 1400rpm idle again. I shut the car off and turn it back on and it idles at normal 850rpm now and holds.
I get to the mustang shop to talk to the guy who sold me the stang' he was pretty busy of course working on other peoples cars at the end of the so that he could go home. i told him about the idle issue and he told me the car simply needs a tune. He said a tune would fix on all my little problems. I also told him that those were not the stock 19lb injectors that were on the car and he said he knew and he put the 21lb injectors from a 2003 Mustang GT on there with a 73mm MAF and stock 5.0 MAF sensor. So my MAF housing is good at 73mm becasue I have a 70mm throttle body but the sensor is calibrated for 19lb injectors and not 21lb injectors.
I am assuming this is my major issue here on why the car doesnt have the power its supposed to have, esepecailly after changing the BBK air fiilter and new fuel filter. I am have dnyo tune appt for the end of september which will give me enough enough time to save for the aluminum DS and short shifter.
|August 14th, 2015 04:11 PM|
You could probably go a little bigger since you're running msd ignition.
I wouldn't go any bigger then .054
|August 14th, 2015 12:58 PM|
Ok, car is running back to normal again. Idle is 850rpm instead of 1400-1600rpm now. I am assuming the computer was just needing to relearn itself after cleaning the IACV and driving it for about 20 miles through all kinds of different speed seemed to fix it. Now onto to the dyno tune!!!
Can anyone please tell me what I should gap my Autolite 3924 plugs too before my dyno tune?
|August 13th, 2015 10:24 AM|
Now I think I have some sort of vacuum problem. I noticed a cpl days ago after a short test drive that a vacuum hose was unplugged that plugs into some round metal piece behind the throttle body. On this diagram Fox Body Mustang Engine Compartment Identification | Mustang Tech Articles | CJ Pony Parts I believe it is #47 Fuel Pressure Regulator - Uses intake manifold vacuum to lower the fuel rail pressure during low rpm operation or it is #49 EGR Vacuum Regulator Solenoid - Controls the vacuum which opens the EGR valve.
Before I hooked the hose back in the car idled perfect between 800-900 rpm but now it idles at like 1400-1600 rpm. Would this cause this to do this? Also the car seemed to have a lot less power now after this has happened.
Sorry guys but I am brand new to mustangs and this is the first one I have ever owned. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
P.S I also forgot to mention, the guy I bought the car from owns a mustang performance shop and did a full tune up on the car and got it running good after the owner sold it to him for dirt cheap because it had some electrical issues that he fixed. So maybe I am thinking that he had it unplugged for a reason. I also took the IAC off and cleaned that really good with throttle body cleaner so I can rule that out.
|August 11th, 2015 01:51 PM|
Also check out http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/...Shifter-T5-T45
|August 11th, 2015 01:39 PM|
I am not sure what gears are in my car as of right now. I am gonna do the "spin the tire, count the rotation" trick to see what I have. If I have 3.73's then I will just keep them but if not then I am going to get 4.10's. I am having a performance shop install them for me as a package deal. Getting a dyno tune, aluminum DS and 4.10's installed and a short shifter. Any recommendations on a short shifter?
Would this be the kit I need to order?
Ford Racing 4.10 Mustang Gears and Install Kit 100577 (86-09 V8) - Free Shipping
|August 10th, 2015 08:57 PM|
Also you will need the kit
in order too change gears you need too pull the diff cover. And pull axles. Since you're pulling the axles you mines well replace those bearings and axle seals. You may be able too get away with not changing the carrier bearings but if that kit comes with them change them.
Have you ever put gears in a car before? If not I'd also suggest having a professional do them. As there are certain requirements for spacing.
|August 10th, 2015 10:47 AM|
|calister622||When I order the 4.10 gears do I just need to order the gears themselves for $144.99 or the kit with gaskets, seals, gear oil and etc ofor like $240?|
|August 9th, 2015 07:59 PM|
Virtually a Ford Racing driveshaft in a Summit box. My buddy bought one and its identical to my Ford Racing one.
|August 9th, 2015 03:06 PM|
Anyone know what I should gap my Autolite 3924 plugs too?
Also whats the typical charge to install 4.10 gears?
|August 6th, 2015 07:45 PM|
Its gonna be a package deal. Dyno tune, aluminum shaft, and 4.10 gears.
Anyone know the cheapest place to get the shaft? AmericanMuscle wants like $310
---------- Post added at 11:45 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:45 PM ----------
Also what should I gap my Autolite 3924 plugs too?
|August 6th, 2015 06:00 PM|
|foxfive||Install your own shaft paying somebody $80 is a waste of money it is easy.|
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