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  Topic Review (Newest First)
September 2nd, 2016 01:08 PM
Edgethis Picked up an intake. Finally found a good deal after searching for a few weeks.

20160902_105409 by Brett, on Flickr

20160902_105442 by Brett, on Flickr

20160902_105425 by Brett, on Flickr

I went with the Vic JR. because I've read that the TBI EFI systems run better with a single plane intake. The VIc Jr. seems to be the best one out there for a stroker. I don't feel I needed the Super Vic.

My block is waiting at the machine shop for the stroker kit. I still haven't decided 100% on what kit I want. I'm probably going to get something from one of the builders, either Fordstrokers or CHP as I don't know how to pick a kit out of the Summit catalog with alot of confidence.

I really want to run the TFS 11R heads but I want the wider exhaust pattern that the AFRs have. Both sets of heads run about the same, so I just have to decided which one I want more.
August 25th, 2016 03:02 AM
ajzride I had the AFR heads on my 351W and was really happy with them. I didn't have to worry about PTV clearance (you can still pick yours pistons, so no big deal) and they made great power in my opinion, but then again it was my first old school pushrod V8.

That said, my understanding is that the AFR needs a really high compression to reach their maximum HP. The Max HP on AFR would be a little more than TW, but you need to be at least 10.5 to get there. If you are going to run anything under that then the TW will supposedly make better HP.
August 24th, 2016 09:23 PM
Edgethis I have been looking at heads. I have been looking at the TF 11R 205's 11r 205s

and the

AFR 220's

I am liking the idea of the wider exhaust pattern on the AFRs but have heard nothing but great things about the 11R heads. Do you guys have any input on which one of these heads is better?

I'm not sure yet on the CC of the heads, I just posted the links above for general reference.

My block is still at the machine shop getting bored 30 over. They're taking their sweet time lol.
June 28th, 2016 12:58 AM
ajzride I did a lot of research on the air-gap. RPM, and vic jr. the only difference on the street between performer RPM and air-gap is price. The vic jr is another story, but I don't think I would want that on a street car.
June 27th, 2016 10:34 PM
Edgethis Figured I'd post some updates where I'm at with this.

My car still has a 302, however, I recently (4 month ago) converted the car to EFI using FiTech's 800 HP Meanstreet EFI. It runs really well for the most part, it starts great, idles nice. I am also running their fuel command center.

I plan to use this system with the stroker motor also, thats why I got the 800 HP kit, so there was a good overhead on the EFIs capabilities )the fuel center also has an 800 HP rating).

I have found a local machine shop that will be checking over the block and doing any work needed. I was quoted around $450 to check/bore/assemble the long block if I supply all the parts.

I am looking to go with either an air gap or a Vic Jr intake. I hear great things about both, I'm just a bit worried about drivablitly with the single plane on the Vic Jr.
August 29th, 2015 11:36 AM
Mike in Kentucky
Quote:
Originally Posted by Edgethis View Post
After looking at lots of options for EFI. I think for me I am going to build the engine as I would for a carb and install a FAST set-up, like this:

F.A.S.T. 2.0

They have a slightly smaller and cheaper kit, but I like that look of this kit and the fact that is is capable of supporting more power then I would ever make.

My only other option is to build a fairly stock style set-up using an OEM harness. I don't really like that route. Every other option is mega expensive and I just can't see myself spending that much for what I'm getting, hell a new T56 and my built shortblock cost the same as some of those EFI kits....
If you do the FAST system, please give a good show-n-tell. I've been wondering if that system is worth the money.

If you decide to go the traditional carb route, just call Quickfuel and give them your engine specs and performance goals. They're pretty good at setting up a bolt-on and go solution.
August 29th, 2015 10:44 AM
Edgethis After looking at lots of options for EFI. I think for me I am going to build the engine as I would for a carb and install a FAST set-up, like this:

F.A.S.T. 2.0

They have a slightly smaller and cheaper kit, but I like that look of this kit and the fact that is is capable of supporting more power then I would ever make.

My only other option is to build a fairly stock style set-up using an OEM harness. I don't really like that route. Every other option is mega expensive and I just can't see myself spending that much for what I'm getting, hell a new T56 and my built shortblock cost the same as some of those EFI kits....
August 27th, 2015 11:01 PM
Edgethis Been looking at some different intake set-ups. I am liking the Super Victor EFI with the elbow and big ford style throttle body. The intake to the TB is right at $1,000 not including injectors.

Parts list:
Intake
Elbow
Throttle Body
Fuel rails

Figure $300 for a set of injectors.

They have new SBF EFI wiring harnesses for $563 that is made to drop an EFI SBF into a 65-70 Mustang
Wiring harness

Just need a MAF and a calibrated A9L ECM after that, right?

Found a MAF, requires custom tuning, but it is the same size as the Edelbrock TB, 90mm
MAF and housing
August 27th, 2015 10:45 PM
69fastback
Quote:
Originally Posted by Edgethis View Post
Ok, 408 it is.

I am really tossing the idea around of EFI on this. @69fastback have you ever thought about EFI on your car?

There are some really nice options out there. The Borla crossram is wicked awesome looking, but at $6500 is way out of my intake manifold budget lol. I was thinking something more traditional like a fox body EFI set-up, but calibrated and sized for the engine of course.
Nah. Nothing against EFI, but a carb is cheap, easy, and it works.
August 27th, 2015 09:36 PM
Edgethis Those look awesome. I really like the look of the 8 stack but jeebus its pricey, though it does have everything minus the fuel pump.

The sidedraft looks nifty, but I don't know if that will supply enough air and fuel for a 408.
August 27th, 2015 08:47 PM
ajzride How about one of these, the first is about the same price as a standard EFI conversion kit:

EZ-EFI® (Self Tuning) Sidedraft Induction System - Sidedraft Systems (4-Barrel Replacement) - EFI Induction Systems

EZ-EFI 2.0® (Self Tuning) Eight Stack System; Small Block Ford 351ci Windsor - Ford Eight Stack Systems - EFI Induction Systems
August 27th, 2015 08:23 PM
Edgethis Ok, 408 it is.

I am really tossing the idea around of EFI on this. @69fastback have you ever thought about EFI on your car?

There are some really nice options out there. The Borla crossram is wicked awesome looking, but at $6500 is way out of my intake manifold budget lol. I was thinking something more traditional like a fox body EFI set-up, but calibrated and sized for the engine of course.
August 26th, 2015 10:05 PM
69fastback Yes, cam options are open.

I love TW heads. They make the best power, and come with better hardware out of the box, over other major brands (ARP hardware, Ferrea valves). If you're going to buy a stroker kit, and you have TW heads, there's no reason to not get the TW pistons.

That's a good kit, and be sure to get the Total Seal race rings. They use ductile iron with a gapless second, and they're one of the best rings on the market. People overlook rings in a build, and they're one of the most important things in engine efficiency, and efficiency is power. When I switched from Perfect circle rings to the Total Seal rings, I picked up 2 MPH, and took .2 off my ET, with no other changes.


Stick with the 408 in the stock block. The 4.170 stroke is just too much, and the 408 has a great rod to stroke ratio, which has a lot to do with how the engine can make power, and engine longevity.
August 26th, 2015 09:41 PM
Edgethis I ended up getting a roller block. So cam choice should be pretty open, right?

I see alot of people going with TW heads. Is it worth getting a kit with pistons set up for TW style vs regular style valve? I have read the TW valve orientation is better.

I was looking at this kit, though maybe in a 408 if not the 427:

14847-PS-F427W - Ford 427W Reverse Dome -19.4cc Pro Street Engine Kit

Is there a better place to look? Brands to avoid?
August 26th, 2015 01:13 AM
69fastback
Quote:
Originally Posted by ajzride View Post
A 408 is the most you can really put in a stock block. The 427 requires a .125 overbore, which typically requires a DART block. I always wanted a 427 stroker just because of the magic number, but in reality a 408 is plenty of power.
It's fairly common to do a 4.170 stroke in a stock block. The .125 bore is a big bore stoker, with a 4.00" stroke, so those are two different setups.


Lots of people, do the small bore 427 in a stock block, but the rod to stroke ratio gets a little large, but it can definitely be done with a stock block.

---------- Post added at 11:13 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:10 PM ----------

Quote:
Originally Posted by Edgethis View Post
You mean tap and drill the block like the later roller blocks? That may be worth looking into. Just eliminate the chance of a cracked block.
But keep in mind that you have to run a small base circle cam with that setup. The link bar lifters are better.
August 25th, 2015 09:33 PM
Edgethis

20150824_194019 by Brett, on Flickr

I got a F4TE block 351w this last weekend. I tore it all down and everything looks great. No cracks to be seen. That was my biggest fear.
July 29th, 2015 01:46 AM
ajzride
Quote:
Originally Posted by Edgethis View Post
You mean tap and drill the block like the later roller blocks? That may be worth looking into. Just eliminate the chance of a cracked block.
exactly
July 28th, 2015 11:00 PM
Edgethis
Quote:
Originally Posted by ajzride View Post
Keep in mind you can run a roller cam in the older blocks without the link bars. You just need the dog bone and spiders. That is cheaper and only an issue if you don't install them before taking the block to the machine shop.
You mean tap and drill the block like the later roller blocks? That may be worth looking into. Just eliminate the chance of a cracked block.
July 28th, 2015 09:42 PM
ajzride Keep in mind you can run a roller cam in the older blocks without the link bars. You just need the dog bone and spiders. That is cheaper and only an issue if you don't install them before taking the block to the machine shop.
July 28th, 2015 09:26 PM
Edgethis Thats good to know. I know the engine will at least need a basic bore, so I'll keep it in mind.

I found JBA makes a set of headers specifically for a 351w in our cars with the Borgenson steering box. They are pricey but if they wont then I guess its worth it. Just need to see if they fit a cable clutch.

These are a hundred dollars cheaper from Summit, just no description:

JBA 6613SJS Mustang Long Tubes Ceramic Borgeson V8 1965-1973

I am just going to focus on getting an engine, getting it built, and getting it in the car. I'll look into EFI after that if I still want it.
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