Forums at Modded Mustangs - Reply to Topic
Thread: No start on new engine....HELP Reply to Thread
Title:
Message:
Trackback:
Send Trackbacks to (Separate multiple URLs with spaces) :
Post Icons
You may choose an icon for your message from the following list:
 

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Forums at Modded Mustangs forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










  Additional Options
Miscellaneous Options

  Topic Review (Newest First)
January 16th, 2017 10:21 PM
01Bullitt82 No, i figured it out though. As a last ditch effort before tearing it apart i decided to try to manually prime using the garden sprayer method. As i was priming i heard oil hitting the floor. I bought my ported heads used and i guess the last guy must have tapped into thw driver side head for a oil pressure gauge. The plug was missing. I plugged the whole primed some more with the garden sprayer. Then started it up and had about 8o psi within 3 secs. Im a happy camper.
January 16th, 2017 08:00 PM
WickedSnake00
Quote:
Originally Posted by 01Bullitt82 View Post
Yes that was the culprit. It seems as if that was the least of my concerns though. I got her started Saturday morning just to see that I have no oil pressure. I mean it wont even push oil into the line of the mechanical gauge. I don't even know what Im going to do now.
Are you running an oil filter relocation? You wouldn't be the first to plumb something backwards.

If not, did you mess with anything on the oil pump side, like pickup tube or anything of the sort?
January 16th, 2017 09:50 AM
01Bullitt82
Quote:
Originally Posted by WickedSnake00 View Post
What plug did it end up being? Are you talking about the main engine harness to chassis connection at the rear of the passenger side?
Yes that was the culprit. It seems as if that was the least of my concerns though. I got her started Saturday morning just to see that I have no oil pressure. I mean it wont even push oil into the line of the mechanical gauge. I don't even know what Im going to do now.
January 13th, 2017 07:35 PM
WickedSnake00
Quote:
Originally Posted by 01Bullitt82 View Post
Finally figured it out....the plug at the rear left side wasn't tightened enough. Of course I tore through half the wiring in the engine bay trying to figure it out before I found it. Thank you to everyone that help me narrow it down.
What plug did it end up being? Are you talking about the main engine harness to chassis connection at the rear of the passenger side?
January 12th, 2017 10:42 PM
01Bullitt82 I have to finish up cleaning up what I tour up to get it fixed. I will clean it up this weekend and get a good video to post.
January 12th, 2017 08:30 PM
Derfdog15 Soooo, wheres the start up vid?
January 12th, 2017 08:22 PM
01Bullitt82 Finally figured it out....the plug at the rear left side wasn't tightened enough. Of course I tore through half the wiring in the engine bay trying to figure it out before I found it. Thank you to everyone that help me narrow it down.
January 12th, 2017 09:38 AM
01Bullitt82 Does that fact that I'm getting .3 to .4 AC with my meter when cranking on that sensor rule out the possibility of having to tear the front of the engine apart? I'm thinking if it wasn't reading the wheel at all I wouldn't see anything on my meter. Is that correct? When I data log It only said RPM I'm not sure if that means its filtered or unfiltered.
January 12th, 2017 09:11 AM
WickedSnake00 Looks like visually the sintered and billet gears are nearly identical.



If you are able to log during cranking and you don't see an RPM signal, then I'd probably go ahead and get a new sensor. Keep in mind that it would be the raw, unfiltered RPM value, not necessarily the filtered one.

If you aren't able to get a reading during cranking I would try again to get a signal from the sensor using an analog volt meter or oscilloscope. If you have those on hand it wouldn't hurt to check either.

...of course if all that fails that means you're going to be chasing wiring back to the PCM which is not fun.
January 12th, 2017 08:23 AM
01Bullitt82 I'm pretty sure it was a aftermarket billet one but I don't remember for sure. Does this look correct? Is there any test I can do to rule out a wiring or ECU problem before I tear the whole front of my engine apart? I did a data log and I'm not getting an RPM reading so I know for some reason or anther the signal is not making it to my ECU which Is why I have no spark and is probably the main cause of my no start condition.
January 11th, 2017 09:37 PM
WickedSnake00 First off, I'm impressed you can get a good picture.

Second, looks like the early year sintered reluctor wheel (right).
January 11th, 2017 07:33 PM
01Bullitt82 Ok what do you gus think of this? This is looking threw the crank postion sensor hole. That looks to thick to be a trigger
wheel????
January 11th, 2017 05:52 PM
WickedSnake00
Quote:
Originally Posted by 01Bullitt82 View Post
Alright I ran home during lunch and verified that the cam sensor is in. I also got my spark tester in the mail and tested the spark which I test three of them and no spark so I'm wondering if my Crank sensor or that wheel is messed up. I tested .3-.4 AC volts on the crank sensor which is a little low but I wouldn't think that means its fried.

Does anyone know if I can remove that sensor without removing the AC? If I can remove the sensor I should be able to look inside to see if the wheel is there.
That seems somewhat reasonable, considering it's usually tough to get a good read on something, especially an AC signal on a DVM.

I think I was able to wiggle mine out with the A/C on. Of course if you can't is no big deal. You can back the A/C off enough or flat out move it out of the way keeping the lines connected.

The lack of a CPS signal could explain the lack of fuel pressure while cranking. It probably doesn't command fuel until it sees engine speed. Of course there probably still is a problem with the harness if you get a fault code with it, but it doesn't sound like it's the root cause here.
January 11th, 2017 02:07 PM
01Bullitt82 Alright I ran home during lunch and verified that the cam sensor is in. I also got my spark tester in the mail and tested the spark which I test three of them and no spark so I'm wondering if my Crank sensor or that wheel is messed up. I tested .3-.4 AC volts on the crank sensor which is a little low but I wouldn't think that means its fried.

Does anyone know if I can remove that sensor without removing the AC? If I can remove the sensor I should be able to look inside to see if the wheel is there.
January 11th, 2017 08:50 AM
01Bullitt82 I know the Crank sensor is plugged in I will check the camshaft sensor when I get home later. I'm pretty sure everything is plugged in but I will double check. Yes new Engine. I had it built by a machine/engine builders shop so I Assume the reluctor wheel is there. I know I gave him one and he didn't give me one back so I hope so.
January 10th, 2017 10:45 PM
SSG Pate Is you Crankshaft sensor and your camshaft sensors plugged in? both of these snesors are on the timing cover, one behind the Power steering reservoir and the other on the passenger side bottom of the timing cover near the AC compressor... Physically check them by pushing them in..

New Motor? Did you get your reluctor wheel put in the front crank snout?
January 10th, 2017 09:55 AM
01Bullitt82 Yes I have FORE Hat so no PPRV its gone. If I turn the key just 1 time there is "0" pressure. I have to turn the key back and forth about 4 to 5 times to prime it enough to get pressure and then it goes down immediately.

I have a new fuel pressure gauge for the rail coming in the mail this week to verify if my gauge is working. If the FPDM that I hooked it to last night with the stock wiring harness is good should it still not start? or was that just a test? I will switch the FPDM and see if it through any codes.

Also I pulled the pumps and checked the voltage at the pumps and they were 11.6 both of them. So there getting power. Gas comes out when I turn the key.

I will run the jumper test and try the other FPDM tonight and let you know what I find. Thanks again for the help. I cant help but think its something simple that I'm just overlooking.
January 10th, 2017 09:31 AM
WickedSnake00
Quote:
I've been working on this car for about 8 months and was very excited to get it back to together then this happens so this has been a disappointing weekend to say the least.
You have much to learn, young grasshoppa. This is a minor speedbump.

Your car will start and run with the fuel tank on the ground, even without the evap lines hooked up. I've done it.

First thing I would do is confirm your fuel pressure is reading correctly. Jumper your pumps (key on, use a jumper to ground the - side of the pump), and see if your fuel pressure moves when the pumps kick on. If it does, good, you have a something to refer to.

I reiterate the previous question; do you have a PPRV delete? If yes, the pressure draining off after prime is perfectly normal. If not, it strongly sounds like there may be a leak at one of the joints in the tank. Have you looked in the tank?

If your fault code goes away when you hook up the stock wiring, that points to a problem in your wiring or second FPDM. Try hooking it up to the second FPDM only. Is there a fault? Then bad FPDM. If there's no fault, it's the jumper harness.

Regarding the fault code, here's an excerpt from a thread over on corral as to possible causes:
Quote:
This is a fuel pump secondary ckt malfunction. Have you recently done anything to your fuel pumps?Is this code a hard fault or a continuos memory code? Your vehicle is a returnless system with a fuel pump delivery module which is mounted in the left side package tray area in the trunk.This module controls your fuel pump,it actually duty cycles the pump to maintain the pressure requested by PCM.This code is set when the FPDM detects a fuel pump secondary ckt fault then it will send a message to the PCM thru the FPM ckt indicating a failure has ocurred.The FPDM will then duty cycle the fuel pump to 75%(750 msec ON, 250 msec OFF) as long as the problem is present.Once the problem is no longer present the FPDM will return the duty cycle to 50% and the P1237 code will then be set to continuous memory. Possible causes are : Open or shorted FP PWR circuit
Open FP RTN circuit to FPDM
Open or shorted circuit in the fuel pump
Locked fuel pump rotor
Damaged FPDM
January 10th, 2017 08:40 AM
01Bullitt82 Update: I checked the wiring and didn't find anything wrong but I did wire up the stock wiring and tried running it through 1 FPDM and it still wont start. However it didn't throw any codes this time. The pumps weren't wired backwards. Either my fuel pressure gauge is messed up or I'm not getting any fuel pressure. I still don't understand why It didn't try starting when spraying starter fluid in the intake if this is a fuel problem? Next question.....I opted to not install the tank In the car because I wanted to make sure everything was operating properly before installing. This cant cause this issue can it? I mean its only the evap lines and such. Yes the fuel line is hooked up.lol. So pretty much these are biggest concerns/questions

1. I'm I wrong to be thinking more towards a possible ECU/Tune issue considering the starter fluid is not working and I'm not building fuel pressure when cranked? On top of not throwing any codes with the stock harness.

2. Does the tank HAVE to be installed with all evap lines connected to start properly?

3. What should I check next????

Thank you all for your input and helping me try to figure this out. I've been working on this car for about 8 months and was very excited to get it back to together then this happens so this has been a disappointing weekend to say the least.
January 9th, 2017 10:42 AM
01Bullitt82 That's going to be the first thing I check when I get home. Would the possible faulty wiring prevent it from starting even when spraying starter fluid into the throttle body?
This thread has more than 20 replies. Click here to review the whole thread.

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome