|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|May 19th, 2019 08:07 PM|
Originally Posted by Snorky View Post
|May 2nd, 2019 07:14 PM|
Originally Posted by akurma View Post
|May 2nd, 2019 02:39 PM|
|akurma||Well after trying to sell it for over a month, and nothing but tire kickers or people not showing up, I have unfortunately decided to part out this cobra I have already sold some stuff and have a pending deal on the motor. But will happily sell parts to forum members. I guess i should make a post in the classified section, but until them PM me with part requests!|
|March 8th, 2019 08:57 PM|
|WickedSnake00||Only if it comes with the driveway/garage space to go with it. I am fresh out of it.|
|March 8th, 2019 05:30 PM|
Originally Posted by WickedSnake00 View Post
|March 8th, 2019 08:59 AM|
I've fixed much worse and I'm juggling 4 projects, 5 if you count the truck.
|March 7th, 2019 11:07 PM|
|akurma||I sadly have to update this and say that I've lost interest in this project and have put it up for sale in its current state which is having the vibration issue, the battery light and i found some rust on the driver side shock tower/rail area. I have too many other projects going on and instead of half assing a bunch of projects i'd rather full ass one lol. If anyone is seriously interested shoot me a PM or something. if the car doesn't sell by the end of the month ill most likely part it out unfortunately. car is located in PA zip 18974.|
|October 13th, 2018 10:16 PM|
Originally Posted by WickedSnake00 View Post
|October 13th, 2018 09:17 PM|
Aside from the grounding issue, there's only two other wires to the alternator. One goes through the instrument cluster and if I recall correctly acts as kind of a power balance; when it's operating at battery voltage current isn't flowing so the light goes off. The other supplies power for the field. That's the one I would check to ensure you have battery voltage at when it's on and running. If it doesn't have power on that, it won't charge.
|October 13th, 2018 07:25 PM|
Been working away at some small things on this car. For some reason the battery light popped on. So I swapped it out with a known good battery (out of my 99GT) and it was still on. Hooked a voltmeter up and its holding at 12.2Volts and not charging. So i ordered a new alternator, installed it, annnddddd same issue. Uninstalled the new alternator drove over to a local parts store and have them bench test the unit. It passed. So I have no idea why it isn't charging as I have checked all the fuses both in the engine bay and under the dash. I have also traced the wires that connect to the alternator the best I could and couldn't find anything wrong. The next time the car is in the air I am going to double check the ground wire that goes from the motor mount to the rail and will also check the connections on the starter. But other than that I have no damn clue, anyone have any thoughts?
|August 2nd, 2018 04:27 AM|
|TorchRedMach||Just read through your whole thread. While you got the car up in the air you should clean up the underside of the car it looks pretty rough. This car is so worth saving, I almost bought this exact car way back in 2001 when we took one in when I was working at a ford dealership. I drove it around and fell in love with it but couldnt get financed. I was 19 and crushed lol|
|June 30th, 2018 05:38 PM|
Got the Pivot stud and clutch fork done today. The replacement clutch fork is much nicer than whatever I took out. Also put those pesky little dowel pins in place and torqued everything back to spec. tomorrow i'll be putting the trans back in place and will see if these changes made the vibration go away
|June 29th, 2018 08:21 PM|
Been a while since i worked or even looked at the cobra, kinda lost motivation with it But after going to the American Muscle 2018 show i found the urge to finish what I started. Last weekend I pulled the trans back out to install the 3 dowel pins that I didn't know/forgot I needed to install since the clutch I took out didn't have them to begin with. However while taking the trans out i noticed that my clutch fork is very loose and kept falling off the pivot stud? Once the trans was out and on the ground I noticed that the pivot stud is worn and the prongs on the clutch fork are bent and weak. Probably should have noticed this before but I digress. Ordered a new clutch for and pivot stud and plan on installing them and reinstalling the trans tomorrow.
What are the odds that the clutch fork falling off the pivot stud and hanging loose would cause the vibration issue? I assume so, but just to be safe im going to install the dowel pins as well. The only video i could find on how to install dowel pins is a video LMR made for a clutch replacement in a foxbody so i assume it's the same?
|April 16th, 2018 05:58 PM|
Originally Posted by Derfdog15 View Post
|April 16th, 2018 10:16 AM|
Originally Posted by akurma View Post
|April 15th, 2018 04:36 PM|
|Old mustang guy||Read the entire thread, makes me want to go out the garage and beat on my car. Too bad it's cold and the hockey playoff game is on. Keep up with your updates as I am living vicariously through you.|
|April 15th, 2018 01:05 PM|
It's been a while since my last update, haven't done much with the cobra as i've been swamped with work. However i was able to track down that EGR bung i was searching for! I took a trip to my local ford dealership and went to the parts department, they gave me a diagram of the exhaust system and told me to pinpoint the item i was looking for. They searched in their computer system for the part number(pictured below for others.) They were only able to find one dealership in Kansas that had it in stock and it has been on the shelf since 2008! So with that piece of the puzzle solved I installed the bung and finally finished the EGR system! I also believe i found the cause of my vibration issue. When i installed the FRPP clutch kit it appears I forgot to install the dowel pins.. rookie mistake i know but in my defense the clutch i took out didn't have dowel pins! So now i get to drop the trans again
|February 16th, 2018 08:44 PM|
I messed with the cobra again last weekend, I am still having trouble finding the correct thread of the passenger side exhaust header EGR bung pictured below. Does anyone have any ideas on where i can find it or even know the correct thread?! i'm not sure if having this big of an exhaust leak could cause my vibration issue as i'm sure the engine is off from the leak.
Anyways I drove it around some more and noticed the clutch seems to feel strange, compared to my 99 GT it feels "numb?" I guess thats what i'm trying to describe. Again the clutch is a brand new FRPP kit, I know there is a break in period for clutch kits, however i'm afraid to drive it much further until i figure out the vibration issue as i don't want to risk damaging the brand new clutch.
I took some video of the vibration im trying to track down. The first video is at idle, it doesn't seem to be much more than my 99GT, in fact you can barely feel any vibrations when its at idle, however the engine seems to move more than it should? The second video is driving around in 2nd gear at around 20mph. in the second video you can see the shifter & steering wheel shaking. HOWEVER the vibration seems less harsh compared to the first time i drove it, which leads me to think the new motor and trans mounts need to break in??
Originally Posted by TheOdessa View Post
Exhaust - I'll look into the clamps that came with the catback this will be a last resort
Clutch - I installed a FRPP clutch kit and it came with a genuine Ford TOB. I did not replace the pilot bearing as the one in the car looked like it was replaced when someone put the clutch in that i took out. Pivot stud & TOB fork, these two i didn't replace as i didnt know they needed to be replaced.. would these cause vibrations or shifting issues down the road?
Vibration - The vibration is felt in the entire car, as well as the shifter and steering wheel (see videos above) the vibrations are "normal" or similar to my 99GT at idle, but as soon as it gets above 1,000 RPM it gets worse and keeps getting worse the high the RPM's climb. i havent gone past ~3,000RPM.
Motor/trans mounts - BOTH motor and trans mounts are brand new, do they need to "break in" ? really hoping i didn't incorrectly install or overlook something with the clutch
Steering components - they look fine, i did test the inner and outer tie rods, there is no play in them. Both front lower control arms are brand new Moog units.
Drive shaft - While im not outing this just yet, I really don't think the driveshaft is the issue because if it was i wouldn't feel it at idle because the driveshaft isn't spinning correct? and in my case i do feel a slight vibration at idle.
Mercedes Benz front plate - hahah this is a joke from my brother, just before I bought this cobra I purchased a green 2000 E430 4matic, a V8 AWD sedan as a beater to fix. I got it all fixed up and on the road, only to hit a deer and total it two weeks after getting it on the road. When they picked up the Benz my brother took the front plate off and put it on my cobra to be funny lol I just havent gotten around to taking it off.
|February 5th, 2018 08:08 AM|
Looks good! Just some personal feedback (take it for what it's worth) and hopefully some help on the vibration
-On the exhaust, I never use those cheap U clamps. It pinches the metal making it almost impossible to disassemble the exhaust if you plan on doing so in the future. I always use lap band clamps or since the metal is cut with slits on the M80 mufflers a heavy duty clamp. Examples linked below:
Summit sells house brand clamps for cheaper of these styles but I just linked the quickest to give you an idea.
-On the clutch, did it come with a FRPP TOB? I ask because I've had a TOB fail after 15K miles using the one that came with the kit. Did you replace the pilot bearing? How's the transmission mount look? I had a clunking noise when mine failed. Replaced it with FORD OEM RUBBER (this is important because I used an aftermarket one and it was crap) and it fixed that. Other uses reported when theirs failed it was vibrating like crazy. Did you replace the pivot stud and TOB clutch fork? These are wearable items.
Onto the vibration - Is it felt in your ass (whole car vibration), felt in the shifter (transmission vibration), or in the steering wheel? Does it happen when you rev,or at a certain speed regardless of RPM? Does it happen at a certain RPM while in neutral?
At a certain speed I was getting insane steering wheel vibration. Took my car in and got the wheels re balanced and all was fine. Whole car vibration can be the driveshaft. Transmission vibration (you an see the shifter going nuts) can be a bad trans mount to something improperly done with the clutch install (never did it myself so I can't start pointing out things to look at here).
I'm leaning towards a drive line issue. Gut says your drive shaft is out of balance. You can take your stock one to any driveline stop and get it rebalanced. You can also buy an aluminum one from Ford Racing that comes pre balanced which will also include new, beefed up U joints. Again this is internet diagnosis based on most plausible cause so take it with a grain of salt.
You can also check things like the steering components. How do the inner and outter tie rods look? Is there any play in the tires when the front is off the ground? Jack up the front and grab 12 and 6 oclock. Rock in and out. Same with 9 and 3 o clock. Check for play. On the rack pull back the boot - is there any steering fluid in there? This could indicate a leaking rack which destroys inner tie rods. Get the wheel half an inch off the ground and lift with a crow bar. Is there a clunking noise? This could indicate a bad lower ball joint. I see you tore into the lower control arms. How did the bushings look? People have indicated sloppy steering (which can translate into vibration at speed) if those are shot. I'm throwing rocks here as I don't know the answers to my original questions.
How's the motor mounts look?
I'm just throwing ideas out there.
---------- Post added at 07:08 AM ---------- Previous post was at 07:06 AM ----------
Also, why the Mercedes Benz front plate? lol - seems extremely out of place...
|February 4th, 2018 10:13 PM|
Got the Pypes pipe-bomb catback delivered earlier this week. The box it was shipped in was absolutely mangled, but surprisingly nothing was damaged or missing! so i tackled that yesterday. I couldn't manage to get the Flowmaster catback off without cutting it unfortunately as the connections where the tail pipes meat the mufflers were so corroded even with a torch and hammer they wouldn't budge. (If anyone wants to make an offer on the flowmaster system PM me) Once that was out of the way i went to work installing the Pypes system, super easy install but was a little odd that the mufflers weren't welded to the pipes going to the midpipe like most systems but it works. Best of all it actually fits unlike the flowmaster unit! I still have to align the exhaust tips but overall pretty impressed with the system for being one of the cheapest stainless steel ones on the market for these cars. I personally like the look and style of the exhaust tips on the flowmaster unit better but I digress.
Once that the cat back was done i made my way to the front and fixed that coolant leak that was against the passenger side firewall and the back of the passenger side head. By far the most aggravating spot to work on because of the limited space. after fighting with it for a while and removing the charcoal canister ( at least that's what i think it was) for the AC to give myself more room, i finally got the old hose off and slipped on the new Gates hose. Looking back I wonder if this leak is why i found two gallons of coolant in the trunk when i bought it
By this point the car was "done" all i had to do was top off the fluids, and bleed the brakes. So i wanted to start it up and get it out moving under it own power the the first time in months to let it idle and make sure no leaks or anything popped up. Fired it up and drove it out of the shop and let it idle for a good 20 minutes. It still has an exhaust leak as i am having a hell of a time finding the passenger side front EGR bung (first picture below) If anyone knows where i can order or even knows the correct thread please let me know. it is not the same as a 99 GT. after about 20 minutes nothing was leaking, the car spontaneously combust or anything lol, so i decided i wanted to take it for a spin to see if all my hard work had paid of. It did not. I instantly noticed horrible vibrations from about 1000-3000 RPMS. I didn't take it past 3000 rpms. Doesn't matter if it is in gear or neutral, although there are noticeably less vibrations in neutral and almost none when its at idle. Now I know there is a break in period for new clutch kit, but does the break in period usual have really bad vibrations? I drove it about 3 miles so far. This was also my first clutch install, it was stupid easy to install but maybe I overlooked something? maybe the flywheel was resurfaced incorrectly? could the driveshaft be out of balance? stretched clutch cable? anyone have any ideas?
Also enjoy the short walk around video of it a idle for the first time since i took the motor out, keep in mind it has the exhaust leak from that EGR bung that is missing.
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