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  Topic Review (Newest First)
April 12th, 2019 05:52 PM
MineralGreyGT I am currently running PurOil 5W - 30, Elite Series - 5W-30 - PurÍl USA I am impressed with it so far, I got a sponsorship deal with them so I got the oil for a 1/3 of the price. But engine seems to start with less hesitation and oil temps seem to be a little cooler when driving around town.
April 1st, 2019 08:45 AM
ZEN357
Quote:
Originally Posted by SSG Pate View Post
I run motorcraft oil filters and 5W30 engine oil either synthetic or conventional depends on how new my engine is.
I watched a YouTube video where they cut apart a K&N and a Mopar Filter and the Mopar was made better. I think I'm gonna switch Filter brands.
March 29th, 2019 04:35 PM
SSG Pate
Quote:
Originally Posted by ZEN357 View Post
What oil filter is every one running? I usually run a K&N. The one with the bolt welded to the bottom of it. Makes it easier for oil changes.
I run motorcraft oil filters and 5W30 engine oil either synthetic or conventional depends on how new my engine is.
March 29th, 2019 08:59 AM
ZEN357 What oil filter is every one running? I usually run a K&N. The one with the bolt welded to the bottom of it. Makes it easier for oil changes.
March 28th, 2019 08:27 PM
Snorky
Quote:
Originally Posted by H10nps1 View Post
Wicked they stated they would just run factory weight, I will have to get the build sheet and check later on. Snotty how is Amsoil treating your car, also what line of Amsoil are you running I hear dominator is good and what filter?
I run the signature series with a motorcraft filter, my mmr900 has a turbocharger setup. The oil tolerates the heat a lot better than a standard off the shelf oil. If i were to run it NA pr eith a blower, i am sure it would last 10k. LOL
March 28th, 2019 03:40 PM
Eagle2000GT Factory weight depends upon which motor you have My motor (Windsor) was designed for 5w30. The next year they reduced the recommendation to 5W20 for Romeos. If I remember correctly it was to comply with environment guidelines but there are internal differences.

I was a little concerned about this because both oil flow and oil thickness is important. Bearings need a continuous flow of oil to maintain an effective hydrodynamic lift but if the viscosity is too thin, the hydrodynamic lift will be insufficient to keep the bearing from touching the crank so I stayed with 5w30.

I'm a big believer in full-synthetic oil. I switched to it when I installed the supercharger. It is less honey-like so it flows better during cold starts when most of the wear occurs and it doesn't breakdown as much do to heat (it doesn't thin out as much). I have read that you shouldn't use full-synthetic when breaking in a motor. It inhibits break in. The supercharger was installed at the 80,000 mile point break in wasn't a consideration.

According to Bob the Oil Guy we should use the thinnest oil that provides 10 psi per 1,000 rpm. There is a time in all motors lives where increased wear and tear will require a thicker oil. He says the normal progression is from 5w20 to 5w30, etc. If an oil pressure gauge is cannot measure it then the rule of thumb is that if the motor is using a quart of oil every 3,000 miles then the next heavier grade is warranted.

I ran full-synthetic Quaker State 5w30 for many years but switched to full-synthetic Mobile 1 0w30 because it had better cold start protection.

Then I started reading articles about how ZDDP is important to protecting motors. Since the 1940s when oil had .03% or 300 ppm the recommended level of ZDDP constantly increased until it hit 0.10% or 1,000 ppm in the 1970s. But ZDDP hurts catalytic converters. Many engineers said that 800 ppms (0.08%) was sufficient. The Mobile 1 0w30 I was using only had 650 ppm so I switched to full-synthetic Mobile 1 European blend 0w30. It had 1000 ppm.

I ran that for a lot of years and I change oil every 3,000 miles. Somewhere around the 150,000-160,000 mile mark I noticed it was using half quart or so of oil between oil changes. When it it reached 9/10th quart I switched to Mobile 1 full-synthetic European blend 0w40. My car is at 215,000 miles and it uses no oil between oil changes.

I did something else. There was a post a long-time ago about a guy running prolonged high rpm pumping his oil pan dry. The recommended oil capacity for my car was 5 quarts. Romeos are 6 quarts. The oil pan will easily hold 6.5-7 quarts with out any interference with anything so I started running 6.5 quarts. It looked like I was overfilling it so I bought either a cobra or newer GT dipstick. It is shorter and 6.5 quarts hits the fill mark exactly.

My car has 215,000 miles and the last 135,000 were supercharged. Its still running strong and it uses no oil.

reference: https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/
March 28th, 2019 01:03 PM
H10nps1 Wicked they stated they would just run factory weight, I will have to get the build sheet and check later on. Snotty how is Amsoil treating your car, also what line of Amsoil are you running I hear dominator is good and what filter?
March 28th, 2019 12:37 PM
ZEN357 I personally swear by Mobile One but that's just my preference.
March 28th, 2019 12:34 AM
Snorky I run amsoil signature series 5w20 in my mmr900
March 27th, 2019 03:28 PM
WickedSnake00 What does the warranty state to run, or rather to not run?

5W-20 vs 5W-30 is going to depend on bearing clearances. Is there a build sheet with those?

Maybe MMR can chime in here. They're often in here hawking their products. If not, try giving them a PM or call.
March 27th, 2019 12:28 PM
H10nps1
Oil recommendations for MMR1000

Trying to get a oil recommendation for a car I purchased a while back with a MMR engine. Car runs flawless. Previous owner stated he only ran 5w20 Royal Purple XPR, thinking of going to Amsoil since I hear really great things about it would I benefit more from a 30 weight opposed to a 20 weight for added protection? The car is 600rwhp, driven mainly on interstate and city roads with occasional competitive weekend racing. Here is the build on the motor.

Engine
MMR 1000 5.0 Stroker short block dynoed at 600rwhp/545 torque on 15lbs of boost, 93 pump fuel
Under 3k on engine so he said but I believe it has more since it was installed quite a few years ago and he was running RP synthetic when the warranty states not to
-18cc forged Manley pistons
Manley h-beam rods
ARP mainstuds, headstuds, and rod bolts
BB&T did Valve job, new seals, guides, and springs and decked heads .001
2.2 Kenne Bell Blower (3.5 upper pulley)
Accufab/KB Throttle Body
60lb Simmens injectors
KB boost-a-pump with upgraded wiring
EGR deleted
PPRV delete
KB FRPS disc
New Fuel Filter
Correct alternator size pulley
New blower and engine accessories belts
Metco lower pulley kit (4lbs lower)
Billet flow 4 piece idler kit
Thump tensioner
JLT CAI
JLT Catch Can (black anodized)
Radiator cover (powder coated)
PLX wideband system
Autometer boost, water temp, and oil pressure gauges
Tuned for 93 pump gas

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