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  Topic Review (Newest First)
April 7th, 2014 11:59 PM
40thstang04
retainers

Quote:
Originally Posted by Codeman View Post
Probably not, I had like 90k and mine looked fine. Basically you would just have to see if your lifters show signs of wear on the roller part. Which I doubt they do.

And the comp retainers are basically the same thing as gt retainers. The GT retainers are just cheaper I paid 16 bucks for the GT retainers from FORD.
*** is there a certain model number for which retainers from FORD I will need I am ordering the 210/218 /00/.500
June 1st, 2012 09:07 AM
Codeman Ya basically the only thing that happens is the lifters start to stick internally but that case you will hear ticking or else the roller wears.
June 1st, 2012 02:58 AM
6ixer Agreed lol
Mine showed no signs like the typical sign would be the roller.part it self.might be/could be
May 31st, 2012 10:28 PM
Codeman Probably not, I had like 90k and mine looked fine. Basically you would just have to see if your lifters show signs of wear on the roller part. Which I doubt they do.

And the comp retainers are basically the same thing as gt retainers. The GT retainers are just cheaper I paid 16 bucks for the GT retainers from FORD.
May 31st, 2012 06:56 PM
03 cristian
Quote:
Originally Posted by 6ixer View Post
I used ls springs lol and to the best of my knowledge its. Benn fine
also i didnt use gt retainers unless the ones from comp cams are gt retainers (i used the one recomended)
Like he said you dont need new rods or lofters but seeing i had 135k, miles i dint wanna open up the engine do all this work and.somthing went and then dig back into it
I have barely 102k miles do I need new rods or lifters
May 31st, 2012 05:57 PM
6ixer I used ls springs lol and to the best of my knowledge its. Benn fine
also i didnt use gt retainers unless the ones from comp cams are gt retainers (i used the one recomended)
Like he said you dont need new rods or lofters but seeing i had 135k, miles i dint wanna open up the engine do all this work and.somthing went and then dig back into it
May 31st, 2012 02:11 PM
Codeman If you are getting your heads ported put the valve springs in then, it is much easier with a valve spring compressor made for doing it with the heads off. Also your ported intake you could wait and do at that same time to save on gaskets.
May 31st, 2012 12:42 PM
03 cristian Thanks, first I need for my long tubes to get here, than install my gears and t-lok, than put in my ported intake, and than the Cam
But will I need to get my heads ported?
May 31st, 2012 10:09 AM
Codeman Basically you will need:

Water pump gasket
Timing cover gasket
Valve cover gaskets
lower intake gasket
upper intake gasket
silicone rtv
camshaft

depending on vehicle mileage and condition of lifters possibly lifters if in poor shape or high miles

valve springs, I went with comp 915 springs COMP Cams: Beehive™ Valve Springs: Top 1.055" O.D., .650" I.D.; Bottom 1.290" O.D., .885" I.D. You can use some LS springs but be carefull.

You will need to run 99-04 mustang GT retainers with those comp springs to get correct installed height.

New valve keepers since you will likely loose some when putting in the springs.

That is it as far as parts.

You will need to get a spring compressor for on the car and a hose that will thread into your spark plug hole that will connect to an air compressor to hold the valves closed when swapping valve springs.

Then just basic hand tools.

EDIT: I guess you will need a tune

Coolant
Oil
And oil filter as well.
May 31st, 2012 09:34 AM
03 cristian
Quote:
Originally Posted by Codeman View Post
I dont toasted the motor on that setup so I got to swap over the cam.

And you don't have to buy new lifters. They are roller lifters and as long as they don't look worn then you are fine reusing them. Also pushrods should not need to be changed unless you go something insane on the cam. And you will need lower intake gasket, upper intake, timing cover, water pump, and some silicone those are the gaskets. And then you will need valve cover gaskets and need to get new springs and retainers.
So make Me a list of what I'll need for that lumpy Cam please
May 31st, 2012 08:59 AM
Codeman I dont toasted the motor on that setup so I got to swap over the cam.

And you don't have to buy new lifters. They are roller lifters and as long as they don't look worn then you are fine reusing them. Also pushrods should not need to be changed unless you go something insane on the cam. And you will need lower intake gasket, upper intake, timing cover, water pump, and some silicone those are the gaskets. And then you will need valve cover gaskets and need to get new springs and retainers.
May 31st, 2012 05:28 AM
6ixer Codeman got vid? I got a similar set up...just catted...
May 31st, 2012 05:27 AM
6ixer Go to mikes thread

Bust basically ..
Push rods
Lifters
gaskets (top end kit is all you need imo)
I got my valves cleaned
retainers / keepers
cam (duh)
I replaced timeing gears and chain but that was my choice


Dont for get tto port your heads....or break you oil pan -.-
May 31st, 2012 05:21 AM
6ixer
Quote:
Originally Posted by Codeman View Post
Yes but if you have LTs and no cats your car will be LOUD!!!! I toasted my old motor that was cammed in my car and I have LT's hi flow cats, and mufflers and the car used to be pretty fricken loud. No with no aftermarket cam the car is quiet!!!

They make the vehicle much louder due to much more exhaust flow and more HP.

I would look at getting a decent cam for all around. Because a smaller cam will give decent gains and good driveability. And then if you want to add a power adder later you can.

I personally have the comp max street strip cam it is 218 int and 226 exh with a .500" lift on both intake and exhaust. It has a 112 LSA. It is a decent cam if you like a rough idle. It has lots of overlap in it and idles rough. It worked great for DD and I even had no problems starting the car in -30 temps in the winter with it. You could go smaller than that if you want. It is up to your goals with the car.

EDIT: since you don't want an agressive one I would go with like a 212 or so on the intake and 218 on exhaust somewhere in there with a 112-114 LSA.
We have the same cam then lol
May 30th, 2012 11:16 PM
03 cristian
Quote:
Originally Posted by ESG-642T View Post
Nothing is a direct bolt on about a cam swap.
So if you make me one that I buy from you what else will I need to buy?
May 30th, 2012 08:48 PM
ESG-642T
Quote:
Originally Posted by 03 cristian View Post
Did your Cam fit in direct bolt on?
Nothing is a direct bolt on about a cam swap.
May 30th, 2012 08:36 PM
03 cristian
Quote:
Originally Posted by Codeman View Post
There are lots of places that do mail order tunes such as the one ^ or else VMP, or else Trick tuners.

I personally have dealt with Trick tuners and have had great luck and they have been very helpful and very fast response.
Did your Cam fit in direct bolt on?
May 30th, 2012 08:15 PM
ESG-642T
Quote:
Originally Posted by Codeman View Post
There are lots of places that do mail order tunes such as the one ^ or else VMP, or else Trick tuners.

I personally have dealt with Trick tuners and have had great luck and they have been very helpful and very fast response.

I've dealt with them all....

Go with the one I posted now... period.
May 30th, 2012 07:55 PM
Codeman There are lots of places that do mail order tunes such as the one ^ or else VMP, or else Trick tuners.

I personally have dealt with Trick tuners and have had great luck and they have been very helpful and very fast response.
May 30th, 2012 07:20 PM
ESG-642T
Quote:
Originally Posted by 03 cristian View Post
But I probably will need a dyno tune because bama, won't write a tune for a Cam ugh sucks
SCT; Tuning guides; LaSota Racing Ford Tuning Index
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