|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|August 7th, 2013 10:50 PM|
see, there ya go. one problem down.
glad to see you got it.
i hate factory clamps...if i touch one they are gone. i keep several in a tool box for emergency use and toss the rest.
|August 7th, 2013 10:18 PM|
|August 7th, 2013 07:54 PM|
when i installed i mine i dropped it in the groove then gasket then housing.
worked for me.
just apply rtv on both sides for insurance.
|August 7th, 2013 06:23 PM|
Originally Posted by 03 cristian View Post
|August 6th, 2013 09:47 PM|
Greenshift: I have access to the FORD diagrams and it showed the housing followed by thermo gasket and finally thermostat. BUT on multiple forums I read that they recommend the housing followed by the thermostat and finally the thermo gasket.
Which method should I go with? I've been going with the second method due to the thermostat being held in the groove of the housing by the gasket but I guess the ford diagrams are there for a reason
|August 6th, 2013 08:56 PM|
|GreenShift||I mean even if you end up angling it slightly as long as theres no grooves or anything I imagine it should work fine. Its not exactly high precision there|
|August 6th, 2013 08:46 PM|
^^^ old school for the win.
anything larger then the base of the housing should work.
|August 6th, 2013 06:21 PM|
Originally Posted by GreenShift View Post
|August 6th, 2013 04:36 PM|
Originally Posted by WickedSnake00 View Post
|August 6th, 2013 10:12 AM|
|WickedSnake00||Want a great way to plane a surface? Get a belt sander. Not even kidding. That's one of the age old tricks to making sure header surfaces are completely flat before installation. Use a fairly fine grit and sand it until it's even with no spots of untouched metal.|
|August 6th, 2013 09:03 AM|
|warthogdriver||Try leaving the in neutral and have someone rev it while you watch. The engine wont care if its in drive or not...only that the rpms are up there. What i would try.|
|August 6th, 2013 02:20 AM|
Whats strange is that it only leaks when I drive the car not when it idles. What I did notice is that it SPRAYS the coolant cause I had it on the cold air intake and upper intake and the area under the thermostat housing is flooded. But the problem is I cant tell where exactly the leak is coming from because it only SPRAYS when driving. I guess ill shell out the money for a new housing
|August 5th, 2013 10:32 AM|
|warthogdriver||Yeah...its the most expense gasket option...felpro for the win|
|August 5th, 2013 12:26 AM|
|izzy1111||Yup your right, they warp after a while. Mine was warpped when I had the singleport setup.|
|August 3rd, 2013 04:18 PM|
|August 3rd, 2013 03:59 PM|
its blue and orange...i think its hard rubber / silicon shell
|August 3rd, 2013 12:14 PM|
|August 3rd, 2013 12:02 PM|
|warthogdriver||I had a similar problem...mine was a small leak. What i finally did was buy a felpro permant gasket for the housing..couple of bucks. Thŗt solved it for me.|
|August 3rd, 2013 10:16 AM|
|GreenShift||Well depending on how badly its potentially warped you could take something you know for a fact is perfectly straight and put it across, if you see significant gaps then you know its warped. I would expect to see SOME light regardless though, so dont think all is lost if you see a little. For example I have a high precision little ruler that I know has a real straight edge. If you want an accurate measurement of exactly how warped it is you could use some feeler gauges, that would give you the best idea on whether its actually warped. Slide them between the gap and if in one spot you can fit a bigger gauge than the rest then its got some warp.|
|August 3rd, 2013 02:57 AM|
Thermostat housing not flat?
I believe the housing is not flat. I've gone through 4 gaskets, 2 tubes of rtv and a curse storm. When I drive the car it leaks a puddle right under the housing but only when driven not while parked. How can I check if its warped so I dont buy a new housing for no reason or can I fix my stock housing?