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  Topic Review (Newest First)
August 7th, 2013 10:50 PM
warthogdriver see, there ya go. one problem down.
glad to see you got it.
i hate factory clamps...if i touch one they are gone. i keep several in a tool box for emergency use and toss the rest.
August 7th, 2013 10:18 PM
03 cristian
Quote:
Originally Posted by warthogdriver View Post
when i installed i mine i dropped it in the groove then gasket then housing.
worked for me.
just apply rtv on both sides for insurance.
Well ill be damned I found the leak. I got the car to running temp...reved to 3k and its the hose that is connected to the bleeder valve. I let it cool down and changed the factory clamp and its fixed. Reps to you and greenshift though(when I get on a computer) cause of the ideas
August 7th, 2013 07:54 PM
warthogdriver when i installed i mine i dropped it in the groove then gasket then housing.
worked for me.
just apply rtv on both sides for insurance.
August 7th, 2013 06:23 PM
03 cristian
Quote:
Originally Posted by 03 cristian View Post
Heck yeah I've heard that on some methods old school is better and add the "pristine" factor lol

Greenshift: I have access to the FORD diagrams and it showed the housing followed by thermo gasket and finally thermostat. BUT on multiple forums I read that they recommend the housing followed by the thermostat and finally the thermo gasket.
Which method should I go with? I've been going with the second method due to the thermostat being held in the groove of the housing by the gasket but I guess the ford diagrams are there for a reason
Anyone?
August 6th, 2013 09:47 PM
03 cristian
Quote:
Originally Posted by warthogdriver View Post
^^^ old school for the win.
anything larger then the base of the housing should work.
Heck yeah I've heard that on some methods old school is better and add the "pristine" factor lol

Greenshift: I have access to the FORD diagrams and it showed the housing followed by thermo gasket and finally thermostat. BUT on multiple forums I read that they recommend the housing followed by the thermostat and finally the thermo gasket.
Which method should I go with? I've been going with the second method due to the thermostat being held in the groove of the housing by the gasket but I guess the ford diagrams are there for a reason
August 6th, 2013 08:56 PM
GreenShift I mean even if you end up angling it slightly as long as theres no grooves or anything I imagine it should work fine. Its not exactly high precision there
August 6th, 2013 08:46 PM
warthogdriver ^^^ old school for the win.
anything larger then the base of the housing should work.
August 6th, 2013 06:21 PM
03 cristian
Quote:
Originally Posted by GreenShift View Post
I was going to suggest a sanding block and 400 grit sand paper but didn't want to sound stupid. I guess either one would work, its a cheap alternative and you don't have anything to lose because if it doesn't work you'll have to replace the housing either way.
I dont have a sanding belt, but I do have a sanding block. I guess I'll give it a try
August 6th, 2013 04:36 PM
GreenShift
Quote:
Originally Posted by WickedSnake00 View Post
Want a great way to plane a surface? Get a belt sander. Not even kidding. That's one of the age old tricks to making sure header surfaces are completely flat before installation. Use a fairly fine grit and sand it until it's even with no spots of untouched metal.
I was going to suggest a sanding block and 400 grit sand paper but didn't want to sound stupid. I guess either one would work, its a cheap alternative and you don't have anything to lose because if it doesn't work you'll have to replace the housing either way.
August 6th, 2013 10:12 AM
WickedSnake00 Want a great way to plane a surface? Get a belt sander. Not even kidding. That's one of the age old tricks to making sure header surfaces are completely flat before installation. Use a fairly fine grit and sand it until it's even with no spots of untouched metal.
August 6th, 2013 09:03 AM
warthogdriver Try leaving the in neutral and have someone rev it while you watch. The engine wont care if its in drive or not...only that the rpms are up there. What i would try.
August 6th, 2013 02:20 AM
03 cristian
Quote:
Originally Posted by warthogdriver View Post
Yeah...its the most expense gasket option...felpro for the win
Well I tried it and it didnt work.
Whats strange is that it only leaks when I drive the car not when it idles. What I did notice is that it SPRAYS the coolant cause I had it on the cold air intake and upper intake and the area under the thermostat housing is flooded. But the problem is I cant tell where exactly the leak is coming from because it only SPRAYS when driving. I guess ill shell out the money for a new housing
August 5th, 2013 10:32 AM
warthogdriver Yeah...its the most expense gasket option...felpro for the win
August 5th, 2013 12:26 AM
izzy1111 Yup your right, they warp after a while. Mine was warpped when I had the singleport setup.
August 3rd, 2013 04:18 PM
03 cristian
Quote:
Originally Posted by warthogdriver View Post
autozone.
its blue and orange...i think its hard rubber / silicon shell
Do you mean black and orange? Its like a kind of thick rubber gasket? Its their "best" gasket that cost $10 vs their other $.99c gaskets?
August 3rd, 2013 03:59 PM
warthogdriver autozone.
its blue and orange...i think its hard rubber / silicon shell
August 3rd, 2013 12:14 PM
03 cristian
Quote:
Originally Posted by warthogdriver View Post
I had a similar problem...mine was a small leak. What i finally did was buy a felpro permant gasket for the housing..couple of bucks. Thŗt solved it for me.
Where did you get that gasket from? Is it the rubber one? Cause if so it didnt work for me
August 3rd, 2013 12:02 PM
warthogdriver I had a similar problem...mine was a small leak. What i finally did was buy a felpro permant gasket for the housing..couple of bucks. Thŗt solved it for me.
August 3rd, 2013 10:16 AM
GreenShift Well depending on how badly its potentially warped you could take something you know for a fact is perfectly straight and put it across, if you see significant gaps then you know its warped. I would expect to see SOME light regardless though, so dont think all is lost if you see a little. For example I have a high precision little ruler that I know has a real straight edge. If you want an accurate measurement of exactly how warped it is you could use some feeler gauges, that would give you the best idea on whether its actually warped. Slide them between the gap and if in one spot you can fit a bigger gauge than the rest then its got some warp.
August 3rd, 2013 02:57 AM
03 cristian
Thermostat housing not flat?

I believe the housing is not flat. I've gone through 4 gaskets, 2 tubes of rtv and a curse storm. When I drive the car it leaks a puddle right under the housing but only when driven not while parked. How can I check if its warped so I dont buy a new housing for no reason or can I fix my stock housing?

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