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  Topic Review (Newest First)
February 26th, 2014 02:25 PM
HiMyNameIsWyatt Dear god, NA_SVT you know your shit! Come fix my car for me so i don't have to worry about her.
February 23rd, 2014 03:41 PM
Snake556
Quote:
Originally Posted by na svt View Post
You aren't gonna make 450 n/a, 370rw is about all you can get.

N/A cams will compliment a turbo as most turbo cams are very similar to good n/a cams.
Cool, thanks for the info man! 450 was an ideal number haha. I'd be happy with 370 NA

It'll be remaining pretty well stock for some time. Gotta build up the funds to do something fun.

If I did decide to boost, what should I be looking for at that point? '03/'04 Mach 1 aluminum block with the forged crank. So I'd need Forged pistons and rods, obviously. Bigger injectors. Dropping compression to 9.5:1 from 11:1. What else am I looking at beefing up? Trying to make a list right now so I have some idea of what I'll be spending (roughly).


Quote:
Originally Posted by jblood37 View Post
Seems like na svt has set this thread straight. I can't believe I saw someone tell another member to torque plugs to 28 ft lbs.
Haha, seemed a little off to me as well
February 23rd, 2014 02:37 PM
jblood37 Seems like na svt has set this thread straight. I can't believe I saw someone tell another member to torque plugs to 28 ft lbs.
February 9th, 2014 10:51 PM
na svt You aren't gonna make 450 n/a, 370rw is about all you can get.

N/A cams will compliment a turbo as most turbo cams are very similar to good n/a cams.
February 9th, 2014 01:54 PM
Snake556 There's two cars I'm looking at. First is an '03 Mach 1 with 38k miles on it, second is an '04 Mach 1 with 76k miles on it. The TT will wait a bit. Goals for N/A would be right around 450 or so. Junkie, you're right. The cams will most likely be one of the last things I do, if at all while staying N/A.
February 8th, 2014 08:44 PM
Oiljunkie instead of cams i would upgrade the rotating assembly, it will be money well spent as NA cams won't necessarily complement a turbo
February 8th, 2014 06:41 PM
Scrun27
Quote:
Originally Posted by Snake556 View Post
I'm planning on leaving it somewhat stock for at LEAST a year or two. Maybe just some bolt-ons. But at the same time, I wouldn't mind building it for a TT project I'm pondering in the future. So I wouldn't mind picking up forged internals, etc. That said, I think that's a bit too much for what I'm looking for right now, so I'll probably just do a light tear down, P&P, new gaskets, get the pistons and rings checked out with a scope to make sure they're okay, and maybe a set of more aggressive cams. How's the flow and feed on the stock oil pumps? Is it worth picking up an upgraded one for a mainly stock engine for a couple of years?

I just found a donor car with around 38k miles on it that I'm gonna throw a bid on. Mileage is low enough I wouldn't be scared to drop the drivetrain in and just give her right from the get-go
With that low mileage donor car I would do a compression test on all 8 cylinders and call it good. When/if you go TT, it will need an entire rebuild for anything over 500 rear wheel HP (assuming this is not a 03-04 Cobra engine we are talking about).
February 8th, 2014 06:35 PM
Snake556 I'm planning on leaving it somewhat stock for at LEAST a year or two. Maybe just some bolt-ons. But at the same time, I wouldn't mind building it for a TT project I'm pondering in the future. So I wouldn't mind picking up forged internals, etc. That said, I think that's a bit too much for what I'm looking for right now, so I'll probably just do a light tear down, P&P, new gaskets, get the pistons and rings checked out with a scope to make sure they're okay, and maybe a set of more aggressive cams. How's the flow and feed on the stock oil pumps? Is it worth picking up an upgraded one for a mainly stock engine for a couple of years?

I just found a donor car with around 38k miles on it that I'm gonna throw a bid on. Mileage is low enough I wouldn't be scared to drop the drivetrain in and just give her right from the get-go
February 8th, 2014 05:13 PM
Oiljunkie realistically the cheapest route is buying a short block. MMR, Livernois, dss etc. Unless you can do all the work yourself.

It also depends on how extreme you want to go. Adjustable cam gear, full ARP hardware, Upgraded oil pump. IT adds up VERY fast. Im at $1300 for pump, cam gears and, hardware alone.

I bought an 01 block with 32k kms on it that should need only a light clean up for $2500. I have 03/04 piston rods n crank(same as 01) that i bought to put into my 2v before i changed my plans. I still need bearings, gaskets, seals and rings as i broke a ring putting one of the pistons back in their box.

labour will be about $1000 for machine and assembly of long block and timing the cams
February 8th, 2014 05:03 PM
Scrun27
Quote:
Originally Posted by Snake556 View Post
Okay, another quick question for you 4v gurus! If I end up grabbing one, I'm going to be rebuilding it before she gets dropped in. I'd like to start with a nice fresh engine. What sorta price am I looking at here? I'll need new seals and gaskets, may splurge for a full port and polish while she's pulled apart, cost dependent. Should I have the transmission and rear end checked as well?
"Rebuilt" meaning new gaskets, or "rebuilt" as in new piston rings and the whole shabang?


Price will depend upon the shop. $2,500-$10,000 with parts and what you are doing.

If you are doing a complete rebuild including the piston rings (which will require the short block to be torn down) I would say now is a time to decide which kind of build you want. If the car will not be supercharged you can keep it stock OR select rods and pistions that will give the car high compression (11:1), and/or a stroker kit to up the displacement to 5.0. If you plan to someday have a power adder, you may want to lower the compression ratio to be safer on boost (8.5:1, 9:1, etc. ) and make sure your rods and pistons that are forged.
February 8th, 2014 04:53 PM
Snake556 Okay, another quick question for you 4v gurus! If I end up grabbing one, I'm going to be rebuilding it before she gets dropped in. I'd like to start with a nice fresh engine. What sorta price am I looking at here? I'll need new seals and gaskets, may splurge for a full port and polish while she's pulled apart, cost dependent. Should I have the transmission and rear end checked as well?
February 5th, 2014 11:41 PM
Snake556 Most definitely will. I'm seriously looking forward to getting the ball rolling on this
February 5th, 2014 07:46 PM
Scrun27
Quote:
Originally Posted by Snake556 View Post
Whoa, some seriously awesome information going on here. Thanks guys! It'll probably be a little bit until I can actually get the drivetrain etc. as I need to renew my passport so I can go get whatever car I pick up, and the two cars I was looking at getting ended up being sold. Only a flood car available now, and I'm not touching that with a 30 foot pole lol.

As soon as I find one I like though, then I'll be grabbing it up and starting my engine rebuild to begin readying to drop in!

So I should be okay with the 4 thread plugs, just make sure they're C heads (was going that way regardless, so should be fine!). She'll be getting boosted eventually, but not for the first couple years at least! Just bolt ons and whatnot.
Yep, just make sure the plugs are torqued correctly and watch for them to be tight. I'm checking mine on oil changes from now on.
February 5th, 2014 06:19 PM
Snake556 Whoa, some seriously awesome information going on here. Thanks guys! It'll probably be a little bit until I can actually get the drivetrain etc. as I need to renew my passport so I can go get whatever car I pick up, and the two cars I was looking at getting ended up being sold. Only a flood car available now, and I'm not touching that with a 30 foot pole lol.

As soon as I find one I like though, then I'll be grabbing it up and starting my engine rebuild to begin readying to drop in!

So I should be okay with the 4 thread plugs, just make sure they're C heads (was going that way regardless, so should be fine!). She'll be getting boosted eventually, but not for the first couple years at least! Just bolt ons and whatnot.
February 4th, 2014 10:42 PM
na svt the electrode was smashed because the plug was blowing around in the hole while the engine was running
February 4th, 2014 09:38 PM
Scrun27
Quote:
Originally Posted by na svt View Post
the piston will hit the head before the plug.
My friend's Mach 1 just had the spark plug come out and the top of the spark plug was smashed against the diode. What causes that? I'm guessing that's where the myth came that the piston hits it. Maybe people are afraid and loosen the plugs
February 4th, 2014 08:24 PM
na svt
Quote:
Originally Posted by Scrun27 View Post
Where were you earlier Todd? LOL
Thanks for setting us back on course.

Question: does the pistion ever smack the spark plug, or is that just what someone once thought happened? From what I can see its more from a loose plug getting pushed up and down until it finally comes out.
the piston will hit the head before the plug.
February 4th, 2014 07:04 PM
Scrun27
Quote:
Originally Posted by na svt View Post
Not all 04 heads have 9 threads



99/01 are also "C" heads.



Bs can outflow Cs and in stock form have a CFM that is very similar to Cs. However, their velocity is poor and therefore so is the power.



B heads do not have any cooling issues and neither do the 99/01 heads.



There's no need for a teksid block if the power is going to be under 800rw. The need for Teksids is highly overstated.



4v threads can hold boost contrary to popular beleif; remember guys, all 4v heads from 93-mid 04 had only 4 threads. There thousands of boosted 4vs with 4 thread plug holes. The problem isn't with the strength of the 4 threads, it's with the morons that over torque the plugs. With that, the proper torque for the plugs is 11 ft lbs, not 28 as stated above. 28ft lbs will have you installing time serts in no time.


The plugs do not get blown out through the cylinder head. They do however, come out of the hole from which they were installed.

Where were you earlier Todd? LOL
Thanks for setting us back on course.

Question: does the pistion ever smack the spark plug, or is that just what someone once thought happened? From what I can see its more from a loose plug getting pushed up and down until it finally comes out.
February 4th, 2014 05:36 PM
na svt
Quote:
Originally Posted by Scrun27 View Post
Get a 2004 so the cylinder heads have the 9 thread spark plug version vs the 4 thread that can spit plugs out through the cylinder head.
Not all 04 heads have 9 threads

Quote:
Originally Posted by Scrun27 View Post
If its down to Mach 1 vs 99/01 Cobra I'd go with the Mach 1 since it has "C" heads
99/01 are also "C" heads.

Quote:
Originally Posted by termi_GT View Post
B heads can't touch the flow of a C head.
Bs can outflow Cs and in stock form have a CFM that is very similar to Cs. However, their velocity is poor and therefore so is the power.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lariat View Post
i'm aware that they don't flow nearly as well as C heads, but i thought the B heads had a cooling issue as well.
B heads do not have any cooling issues and neither do the 99/01 heads.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Oiljunkie View Post
both heads have cooling issues, that why most big power guys and anyone who doesn't want issues runs a head cooling mod of some sort.

If you can find an 01 with a teksid book IMO that would be the route i would go, unless you don't want IRS then find a 04
There's no need for a teksid block if the power is going to be under 800rw. The need for Teksids is highly overstated.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lariat View Post
As long as you aren't planning on boosting it right away, you can get away with the 4 thread plug holes. Just gotta torque em to 28 ft/lbs.
4v threads can hold boost contrary to popular beleif; remember guys, all 4v heads from 93-mid 04 had only 4 threads. There thousands of boosted 4vs with 4 thread plug holes. The problem isn't with the strength of the 4 threads, it's with the morons that over torque the plugs. With that, the proper torque for the plugs is 11 ft lbs, not 28 as stated above. 28ft lbs will have you installing time serts in no time.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Scrun27 View Post
Get a 2004 so the cylinder heads have the 9 thread spark plug version vs the 4 thread that can spit plugs out through the cylinder head.
The plugs do not get blown out through the cylinder head. They do however, come out of the hole from which they were installed.
February 3rd, 2014 02:49 PM
Oiljunkie both heads have cooling issues, that why most big power guys and anyone who doesn't want issues runs a head cooling mod of some sort.

IMO don't buy someone else's swap, do your own.

If you can find an 01 with a teksid book IMO that would be the route i would go, unless you don't want IRS then find a 04
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