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  Topic Review (Newest First)
December 8th, 2018 11:08 AM
x7sage7x You're getting power to the headunit but not the speakers?
October 2nd, 2018 01:06 AM
Dennis75
Need Help witn aftermarket Dual doubledin hookup in 98 with the 460 sound a d no wiring harness

I'm getting power but no sound our after hookup I need a diagram of actual hookup the wires.
July 11th, 2017 09:54 PM
brelon I have used a capacitor before, but I feel like the are just a band aid for a weak charging system. If you are planning on installing a system you should look at doing the big 3 first, make sure your alternator and battery are in good shape, and make sure you have the right sized power cable for the amps you are installing. All the cap does is provide a stable power signal for the amp when the bass hits (power spike). If you have a good battery, good grounds, and an alternator capable of keeping up then you shouldn't need a cap in most cases.

For the components, don't cheap out or you will regret it later. If you can't afford to power them correctly you will definitely be leaving some sound quality on the table, but you can always buy what you want, save money for an amp, and wait to install everything once you have it. It's always cheaper to do it right the first time. You can run them off an aftermarket headunit directly but it won't be optimal, and clipping of the signal can happen if you are pushing them hard with a crappy signal and compensate by turning it up too loud.


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April 4th, 2014 12:09 AM
x7sage7x
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1MeanNonPI2v View Post
The cap provides extra on tap power when the system is really cranking. I noticed before it was installed, that the sound would fall off after a couple minutes of high volume thrashing. In went the cap, and no more power loss.
That's interesting, I have never needed to use one. Must be a mustang thing. Ya, I don't think I will ever have it in me to install a sub, haha. I think 4 component speakers with a little thump will have my very content.

Well guys, thanks, reps to the both of you.
April 3rd, 2014 07:10 PM
1MeanNonPI2v
Quote:
Originally Posted by x7sage7x View Post
Why a cap? I never used them back in the day.

Ok, since we are comparing systems here; I use to have.

Pioneer class D 1000x1 amp
Rockford Fosgate P2 12" in a 3 cubic foot vented box made by muah
the headunit was crap.... and speakers were stock the whole time, but MAN. This thing sounded like a triple stack 15". Loved it, but their is no way I would put that in my car, haha. I am trying to save weight, and I know that component speakers are the next best thing to a sub.
The cap provides extra on tap power when the system is really cranking. I noticed before it was installed, that the sound would fall off after a couple minutes of high volume thrashing. In went the cap, and no more power loss.
April 3rd, 2014 05:51 PM
Silver35th
Quote:
Originally Posted by x7sage7x View Post
Why on earth did you go with 5.25's? Haha, their are plenty of 6x8's.
Not the ideal setup, I know. But they do just fine. The subs take up some of the midbass that the 5.25s cant hit.
April 3rd, 2014 05:35 PM
x7sage7x
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1MeanNonPI2v View Post
check out sonicelectronix.com

They have great deals on stereo stuff. You've got some respectable stereo equipment there. With right amp and tuning it should sound very good.

I'm running JL 6x8 components all around
A single 10" Diamond Audio D6V2 subwoofer
1 farad capcitor

4x100 JL audio 4 channel amp
500x1 Diamond mono amp for my sub

When I turn this up to a slightly uncomfortable level in the car, I can close the doors with the windows up, walk 40-50 feet away and still here the highs and mids crystal clear.

If my loud exhaust doesn't cause instant window roll up at a stop light, my stereo does. When I see someone on their iphone next to me, I crank Slayer and watch them squirm.
Why a cap? I never used them back in the day.

Ok, since we are comparing systems here; I use to have.

Pioneer class D 1000x1 amp
Rockford Fosgate P2 12" in a 3 cubic foot vented box made by muah
the headunit was crap.... and speakers were stock the whole time, but MAN. This thing sounded like a triple stack 15". Loved it, but their is no way I would put that in my car, haha. I am trying to save weight, and I know that component speakers are the next best thing to a sub.
April 3rd, 2014 05:31 PM
1MeanNonPI2v check out sonicelectronix.com

They have great deals on stereo stuff. You've got some respectable stereo equipment there. With right amp and tuning it should sound very good.

I'm running JL 6x8 components all around
A single 10" Diamond Audio D6V2 subwoofer
1 farad capcitor

4x100 JL audio 4 channel amp
500x1 Diamond mono amp for my sub

When I turn this up to a slightly uncomfortable level in the car, I can close the doors with the windows up, walk 40-50 feet away and still here the highs and mids crystal clear.

If my loud exhaust doesn't cause instant window roll up at a stop light, my stereo does. When I see someone on their iphone next to me, I crank Slayer and watch them squirm.
April 3rd, 2014 05:31 PM
x7sage7x
Quote:
Originally Posted by Silver35th View Post
This is what I have at the moment. Need to get a different 4 channel. Its too weak for the components I have up front.

Kenwood eXcelon KDC-X591 HU
Polk db 5.25" components in front
Polk db 5.25 coaxials in rear
Boston Acoustics G310-4 subs (2)
Boston Acoutsics GTA-800m
Boston Acoustics GTA-504
Why on earth did you go with 5.25's? Haha, their are plenty of 6x8's.
April 3rd, 2014 05:19 PM
Silver35th This is what I have at the moment. Need to get a different 4 channel. Its too weak for the components I have up front.

Kenwood eXcelon KDC-X591 HU
Polk db 5.25" components in front
Polk db 5.25 coaxials in rear
Boston Acoustics G310-4 subs (2)
Boston Acoutsics GTA-800m
Boston Acoustics GTA-504
April 3rd, 2014 05:16 PM
x7sage7x
Quote:
Originally Posted by Silver35th View Post
I thought about replacing speakers and doing what you're talking about with mine. I ended up ripping out the entire Mach 460 system and rewiring my own system from the head unit back.
That's been the plan, just remove the amps and stock stereo wiring and lay fresh wires to a 4 or maybe even 5 channel amp and be good to go. I just don't have much money to spare for that and wanted to make some component speakers work.

What speakers are you running now?
April 3rd, 2014 05:11 PM
Silver35th It doesn't work like that. To properly run those component speakers, you need 75W RMS at 4 ohms per channel. The Mach amps cannot do this and neither can the head unit. You can run the component set off of the head unit, but the head unit is rated at 14 W RMS per channel. Not 200 like you stated before. 200 is the max wattage the HU amp can deliver at once to all 4 channels. Not very ideal at all.

To take advantage of the component set you want to use, get a proper amplifier to power them. If you don't want to do that I suggest you leave it as is. Not worth trying to make the Mach 460 work with what you're trying to do.

I thought about replacing speakers and doing what you're talking about with mine. I ended up ripping out the entire Mach 460 system and rewiring my own system from the head unit back.
April 3rd, 2014 04:51 PM
x7sage7x That makes sense but between the Mach 460 amps and the headunit I have enough power to match RMS. What if I bridged the amps just to the rear speakers? That would present them at a 4 ohm load rather than the 8 ohm load per channel. The speakers RMS is also at 4 ohm so that would match. Than the front speakers go to the headunit.

Will that work?
April 3rd, 2014 04:31 PM
Silver35th
Quote:
Originally Posted by x7sage7x View Post
And the Mach 460 amps cant power them? Or are those RMS really low? I haven't looked up their numbers.
They can power the speakers, BUT you will be presenting a resistance to the amplifier that is half of what it is designed to run on. This will make the amps run very hot and go into protection mode. Buy a dedicated amp to run the components on. You will be much happier.
April 3rd, 2014 04:21 PM
1MeanNonPI2v Buy an aftermarket amp and wire the components to that. The deck won't have enough power and the factory amp will have the wrong ohm load. Trust me it will sound better with a dedicated amp.
April 3rd, 2014 04:12 PM
x7sage7x
Quote:
Originally Posted by Silver35th View Post
You'll get clipped signals from the head unit amp when you crank the volume up because it just doesn't have the power. Yeah sure you'll have the sound stage effect components give but you're gonna need more power to take advantage of them.
And the Mach 460 amps cant power them? Or are those RMS really low? I haven't looked up their numbers.
April 2nd, 2014 11:59 PM
Silver35th You'll get clipped signals from the head unit amp when you crank the volume up because it just doesn't have the power. Yeah sure you'll have the sound stage effect components give but you're gonna need more power to take advantage of them.
April 2nd, 2014 10:02 PM
x7sage7x
Quote:
Originally Posted by Silver35th View Post
You can run it on the head unit. But IMO it will defeat the purpose of buying component speakers.
How so?
April 2nd, 2014 09:11 PM
Silver35th You can run it on the head unit. But IMO it will defeat the purpose of buying component speakers.
April 2nd, 2014 07:30 PM
x7sage7x
Quote:
Originally Posted by Silver35th View Post
The Mach 460 used two 8 ohm speakers wired in parallel for the amp to see a 4 ohm load. If you use two 4 ohm speakers, the parallel configuration with the factory harness and wiring will present a 2 ohm load to the amp and will more than likely send it into protection mode and/or overheat.

You'll be better off using a dedicated amp for the components.
Not an option, headunit or Mach 460 speakers, pick one.
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