|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|January 25th, 2015 11:12 PM|
|EricDF150||It's coming along. Rear suspension is largely in, have a pile of parts sitting here to rebuild the rear end. Will try to get some pics up soon.|
|January 19th, 2015 10:37 PM|
|Lankolf||How's the build going? Looks like it's going to be sweet. Are you still working on it?|
|September 29th, 2014 11:58 PM|
|Mikel89us||I wish I had half the knowledge you do, I can think of stuff like that, but have none of the required application process to make my ideas work, sorry for the thread jacking, but its been a while since OHC has been on here in any kind of force.|
|September 29th, 2014 11:07 PM|
• I used a slider cam which was re-ground to 230/230 Duration @.050 Lift , with the gross lift set at .485”
I quickly found that the cam timing transition point was critical with this cam and I never really got it quite right. The engine initially had a huge power dip halfway through its RPM range, until it transitioned.
I degree’d it all over the map and fiddled with the RPM switch in an effort to find a happy spot . I made it much better, but need to play with it a bit more. It does work, the car idles fairly smooth and once it transitions, it pulls hard up to 7500 RPM. Driving around town it feels very close...errr closer to a stock 2.3
|September 29th, 2014 01:05 PM|
|Mikel89us||Did you do the custom cam grind you had figured out?|
|September 29th, 2014 12:47 PM|
|OHC230||I did a few experiments with the system about 4 or 5 months ago, but like a lot of my projects, I fell short on time and money and shifted my attention towards some engineering jobs that payed money. It does seem to work, although you have to tension the belt manually. In order for the system to work well, I need to address a few aspects of the actuation system. I tried several actuators, before building my own from scratch. I had it tied into the power steering pump. A Solenoid Operated Directional Control Valve was used to actuate it, via a relay and RPM switch. If you could source all of the parts cheaply and had some basic fabrication skills, it might be a worthwhile project.|
|September 28th, 2014 11:14 PM|
|Mikel89us||OHC have you done any more work on your variable timing system for the 2.3??|
|September 27th, 2014 11:44 PM|
From the pictures, it looks like you have done a lot all ready.
|September 27th, 2014 02:11 PM|
|September 27th, 2014 12:17 AM|
Sorry, not trying to bog you down. Mike and I are just throwing out some ideas for you. I am a NASA racer from, well its inception back when it was still the CA Capri club. What you have there is plenty adequate for a track day car already. Honestly, I would keep it simple for now and just throw out the standard weight reducing items like; interior, HVAC, bumpers and anything else you don't need and call it good for now, but you're not going to like the car very much with just 100 HP in it.
The great thing about the 2.3, is that once you get past the EFI fuel system with a carb, it responds very well to classic mods. If you were to just do the most basic mods, like milling the head .100-110" swapping in this cam Speedway 2.3 Ford Hydraulic Cam, 4000-7200 RPM - Speedway Motors, America's Oldest Speed Shop which is the hydraulic lifter version of the one I posted earlier and installing the stiffer springs I mentioned + the exhaust. You could expect 150-160 HP from your otherwise stock engine, which can take a real beating as long as it stays cool. You will need at a minimum; a carb, manifold and distributor from any 82' or older 2300 equipped car.
|September 26th, 2014 10:18 PM|
|EricDF150||You guys are getting me sidetracked - I need to finish up the chassis first. Don't think I want to build (spend) a 7500 rpm motor the first go 'round. I've been eyeballing OHC's Speedway parts list for a while and will probably move more along that route. Weight will be important, curious to see where it ends up. Main issue is going to be the weight of the driver...|
|September 26th, 2014 02:52 AM|
I guess Bo's Stage 3 cam? Bo doesn't list full cam specs, just valve lift, you have to buy the cam I guess or ask someone who runs it. Bo's stage 3 is going to require some additional head work at .550 lift and possibly some longer stem valves for correct geometry or an offset spring retainer depending on what else is done. Once you're in the .550 lift range the accompanying loads and stresses jump up quite a bit, not really ideal on a road race engine which see's sustained rev's, hence my cam suggestion.
In any case, with 185 HP Eric will be blowing past the bottom 3 NASA spec classes; Miata, BMW E30 and spec 944, which are all running less than 165 HP. He just needs to get the weight down below 2400 lbs. It's gonna be a fun ride.
|September 25th, 2014 03:07 PM|
|Mikel89us||He sells his stage cams, and a turbo specific grind. He has been building 2.3's for dirt cars for a while from what I gathered.|
|September 25th, 2014 01:28 PM|
Bo does some very nice work that's for sure and is a nice guy too. His head porting is some of the best in the business. I think the cams he sells are aimed at boosted applications and lack the needed duration for Eric's application, unless Bo's introduced something new??
I'm not sure what kind of budget Eric is on for this project, but for my money, the Speedway parts can take you pretty far towards building a good road race engine. The stock 2.3 Rods and crank are plenty strong for this task; a good inspection of the engine, boring of the block and surfacing of the block and head to raise CR plus some balancing will just about complete the build.
BTW Speedway sells a good dual valve spring set for $70.00.
2.3L Ford Drop-In Dual Valve Springs - Speedway Motors, America's Oldest Speed Shop
|September 24th, 2014 08:19 PM|
Might I throw in a suggestion cam wise?? I think the best thing for your desire would be a bo-port complete cam kit. They do complete drop in kits that require no machine work to the spring pockets. I will get a link for you.
First link is to the cam page, read up on the cams here
Second link is to the kit, you can choose stock or oversized valves, and cam bring, and the option to purchase followers
|September 24th, 2014 03:15 PM|
The carb will really simplify that process. Since HP is a function of engine speed, you will most likely be closer to 7500-7800 RPM @ 200 HP. If you can live with 175-185 HP, your goal is not hard to obtain with bolt on parts and some minor port work. A CR of 11.5-12:1 with the right choice of cam, springs and header can get you in that category. The 350 and 500 CFM Holley carbs work well when mounted via adapter plate to the stock EFI lower intake. An accumulator and windage tray would be good insurance for your type of racing, along with a bronze distributor gear.
I listed some links below, from which I've built several 180 HP engines from. This is a partial list of course.
Holley 0-7448 350 CFM Gas 2 Barrel Carburetor - Speedway Motors, America's Oldest Speed Shop
Schoenfeld Headers F239V 2.3 Ford Pinto Late Model Headers - Speedway Motors, America's Oldest Speed Shop
Speedway 2.3 Ford Solid Lifter Cam, 4000-7200 RPM - Speedway Motors, America's Oldest Speed Shop
Icon 2.3 Ford Pistons, Flat Top, 5.205 Rod - Speedway Motors, America's Oldest Speed Shop
|September 22nd, 2014 08:58 PM|
My plan right now is to go carb. Ideally would like 200hp and keep it under 7k rpm.
|September 20th, 2014 06:37 PM|
I have run numerous NASA events with 4 cylinder Mustangs, they do surprisingly well.
If you're going to run the engine in N/A form, you will quickly find that the fuel system will limit your HP to roughly 115-120ish range, no matter what you do internally. I have successfully used the lower HP turbo ECU's and injectors to push up to 155 HP, before requiring some kind of tuner. Finding a cam that will play nice with factory ECU's can be challenging, hence the HP limit.
|September 20th, 2014 12:00 AM|
|September 19th, 2014 02:37 AM|
|OHC230||Yeah no problem, what racing venue are you going with, NASA HPDE?|
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