|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|March 26th, 2015 08:24 AM|
|HickRocket1258||You'll have so much fun with a converter. Blower and converter = lots of fun, for me at least. Car drives fine like stock when normal driving conditions.|
|March 25th, 2015 12:50 PM|
I believe the SCT tuner does let you adjust the shift points.
When I was running NA I was using a Bama tune and they do really good job on improving the trans settings in their tunes, it shifted hard and fast.
|March 25th, 2015 12:27 PM|
|makskylan||Yeah it is a lock up converter. I can definitely feel when it locks up going down the road. Seems like it locks up like th the stock one.|
|March 25th, 2015 09:21 AM|
Originally Posted by makskylan View Post
|March 25th, 2015 03:58 AM|
|makskylan||I just installed a PTC converter in my 01 Gt. I have a CAI,4.10 gears, UPR x pipe, flowmaster single chamber mufflers, and a Diablo In Tune Tuner. It stalls around 3200 RPM. I read the above post about adjusting shift points and O.D. . Would I need to adjust these? I am currently running the "race" tune that came with the Tuner. I noticed alot of difference in shift points with that set up. Would I need to adjust things further? Thanks...|
|January 20th, 2015 12:54 PM|
I was also going to mention, prior to the converter, when I installed my cams, the car wanted to buck against the brakes when I came to stop lights and left it in D. I didn't really care, I just put it in neutral if I was going to be sitting awhile. Converter took care of all of that.
Call each manufacture you are interested in and give them your specs for the car, how you drive it, and any future mods planned. Dyno graphs help a lot if have them. They will spec you out a converter, and adjust it to stall at whatever speed they recommend for your power level. The two main brands for our cars are Dirty Dog and Circle D. There are a couple other ones I hear about people going with, but I have also heard of many problems out of them. Definitely don't cheap out on a converter, though. One of the $300 eBay units is not going to cut it, haha.
I could not be happier with my Circle D converter. It showed up at my door packaged up like Fort Knox, and had my name, order number, and part number all written right on the converter. Definitely gives you the feeling you are being taken care of!
|January 20th, 2015 11:09 AM|
|EDDIEDOVER||My old 69 HAD 3500 stall but with the old c-6 no od or lock up . I loved it in my younger wilder days but was concerned with the computer controlled transmission at lower cruising speeds. I want bigger cam for mean idle and of course that will require a stall but want to keep it as my daily driver and be able to cruise around town . Are you guys buying out of box converter or having them custom built for your application?|
|January 20th, 2015 10:41 AM|
In a nutshell, you are right. Once the torque converter locks up, the car drives totally like stock. There is no slip once it is locked up.
When accelerating, you can feel the extra slip some, but once you are at highway speeds, the car will drive tame as a kitten. Normally, when accelerating from a stop, my rpms will go to about 3000 and hold for a second, then shift to 2nd gear, rev up to about 3000 gradually, then the torque converter locks up and they drop to 2200 or so. Once you get up to speed, the converter will unlock, shift to 3rd, then lock back very quickly. I don't really even feel it. You can keep the revs down to 2000-2500 or so if you are light on the throttle. I normally just go ahead and dig into it to get up to speed though. Your tuner will take car of all the shift points for you.
Pretty much from 2nd gear up it drives like a stock car at part throttle. Then at WOT, the car is a freaking animal. PD blower and turbo guys might not notice this as much because they have pretty much instant torque anyway, but with a centrifugal blower the difference was night and day.
I've done it all to my car at one time or another: gears, every bolt on imaginable, cams, a blower, etc. The only mod that even comes close to the torque converter in seat-of-the-pants performance is the blower. I think the whole "torque converters will ruin drivability" stereotype was started quite some time ago, and technology has really came a long way into making these things more tame on the street, but mean on the strip. If more people stalled their autos, they wouldn't have such a bad rap for being boring... it's kind of hard for someone to talk smack about your transmission when their neck is being whipped back at a 45* angle.
|January 20th, 2015 10:32 AM|
|January 20th, 2015 10:28 AM|
|EDDIEDOVER||How does the stall work out in our cars on daily driver say 340-400 rwhp cruising at 50-60 mhp 410 gears would be around 2000 rpm or so . will lock up keep heat building "slippage in check ?|
|January 20th, 2015 10:26 AM|
Originally Posted by WrenchThrower View Post
|January 20th, 2015 10:14 AM|
|stal94gt||For a drag inspired car stay auto. For twisties and a strictly street fun car going manual is fun|
|January 20th, 2015 09:32 AM|
I was pretty close to getting a stall but decided on getting the cams instead. I'm still debating whether I want to go the 5 speed route or stay auto.
|January 19th, 2015 01:47 PM|
|January 19th, 2015 12:58 PM|
The WOT shift points in the tune are totally determined by MPH settings, not RPM.
I wish they didn't do it this way as you have to redo them anytime you change gears or tire diameters.
The stock tune also reduces engine torque during shifts so you probably won't hurt the trans by going WOT on it without a retune.
The tuner will increase the line pressure during shifts but will also probably eliminate the torque reduction.
The other thing you can control in the tune is when the converter lock up occurs. I delayed the lock up after 1-2 shift about 1 second to keep from hitting the tires too hard and to let the RPM's come back up a little.
It feels like another gear shift when the converter locks, but if you don't have a torque converter with a strong enough clutch to handle this for your HP level don't do this locking at WOT.
Some trans builders (Freddie Brown is one) don't like using locking converters with their trans but several are ok with it as long as the trans and converter are built to take it.
Controlling the line pressures in the tune is doable but tricky.
There are engine torque tables that are used to set the pressure at various torques so you can modify those to change the pressures.
There are also setting for how much pressure is applied when the throttle goes WOT.
However the numbers set in the tune aren't the actual line pressures, the actual pressure is higher than the tune number.
The actual pressure is also a function of the spring stiffness and setting in the valve body.
So the only way to know what the line pressures really are (and this is important to know) is to put a gauge on the trans, there is a port just ahead of the shifter on the drivers side you can connect to for this pressure.
Most trans guys like to see it in the 190 to 210 range during WOT.
I connected a pressure sensor there and I datalog it along with my wideband AFR.
|January 19th, 2015 12:52 PM|
Originally Posted by WrenchThrower View Post
Every time you want to do a small mod, take that money and just put it in the bank. After a few months you'll have enough saved for a stall converter. It's completely worth it, trust me. Best mod I've done since the blower.
|January 19th, 2015 11:18 AM|
Dang it, I want a stall again!!
On my budget that'll be about 2 years form now .
Once again some good info in here, I never once thought about Load calculations being off with a stall, but it makes complete sense.
|January 18th, 2015 07:38 PM|
Originally Posted by 03 cristian View Post
|January 18th, 2015 07:12 PM|
Originally Posted by SSG Pate View Post
|January 18th, 2015 04:54 PM|
|SSG Pate||You can drive it just don't go WOT and the shift points wont be an issue over revving and such. For daily driving and mild applications your good.|
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