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  Topic Review (Newest First)
March 8th, 2015 05:48 PM
Mikel89us Update, I tore into it the other day, moved the distributor(was touching the intake where I had it set). Replaced the icm, changed out the injectors for some red tops from a 4.0. It runs much much better. I'm not sure what fixed it.

Also, I have the base timing set at 28* btdc and I have the spout connectors in. I think I need to mess with the timing curve, but I don't know how to go about that right now. So I'm not going to risk messing it up...
February 13th, 2015 03:07 PM
Mikel89us Yes, stock VAM
February 13th, 2015 01:44 PM
OHC230 Are you using the VAM with this setup?
February 13th, 2015 11:11 AM
Mikel89us NA right now, if I boost it, it will be 6 psi. Its got the 11:1 Cr motor from the mustang in it.
February 12th, 2015 11:43 PM
OHC230 Hey Mike, what kind of boost are you running in that setup?
February 2nd, 2015 08:52 PM
Mikel89us So the new pickup didn't do the trick. I think my next move is swapping the icm from the other distributor. If that doesn't work, I may need a set of stock tv fuel injectors. Anyone have a set or know where I might find a set?
January 31st, 2015 06:44 PM
Mikel89us I have another distributor, but its got a broken cap bolt. A lot of out stuff is the old vac advance stuff from racing.

I did buy the hall effect sensor, I haven't had a chance to install it yet, I also bought a shifter rebuild kit. Most of you wouldn't be familiar with how you rebuild a ranger shifter, lol.
January 31st, 2015 03:21 PM
"Have you changed PIP in distributor"
I assume that you"re referring to the Hall effect sensor. PIP=Power IN Power or Profile ignition pickup

Mike don't you have a car you can pull a distributor from?
January 27th, 2015 11:33 PM
Mikel89us I have not. I had considered something lime that, where did you get yours? I've never looked one up.

---------- Post added at 10:33 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:31 PM ----------

I assume you mean the pickup inside the dist, not the module itself.
January 27th, 2015 08:56 PM
ranger50toy Have you changed PIP in distributor. Mine started out llike you described and became undrivable.
January 27th, 2015 07:54 AM
Mikel89us Last time I checked the plugs they were a little black around the threads/shank but the electrode and ground strap looked like a solid stoich burn.

I am not sure on exact timing. I set it by ear, my timing light broke, so I set it and drove it, adjusted till I got spark knock, then slowly backed it off to the point where I only get spark knock under heavy load low rpm (4th or 5th gear, under ~1800 rpm)

I had the entire harness apart, i haven't found any bad wires or bad looking connections.

I have a graph of the tps signal, using the tuner i started a data record then slowly rolled on the throttle and slowly back off (automotive school training kicking in) and it looks good no bad spots i can see.

January 26th, 2015 11:02 PM
OHC230 Have you run it with the TPS unplugged?

Verified fuel PSI? If so, I would move to wire connections; grounds, shorts, etc.

Got a known "good" TFI module, try and swap that.

Where is this thing timed, try unplugging the spout and setting 22 degrees of advance. leave the spout unplugged.

Have you read the plugs? Rich or lean? Use your tuner.

Compare stock bin file with your current tune.

Re-post with update
January 26th, 2015 08:42 PM
Mikel89us OHC I changed the plug wires, still doing it, so I unplugged the vam, drove it, still there.
January 26th, 2015 07:51 AM
Mikel89us Update, I have noticed it does it much less if I give the truck ~10 minutes to warm up before I drive it.
January 25th, 2015 08:51 PM
Mikel89us I am running the vam
January 25th, 2015 08:36 PM
OHC230 Since the issue seems to be intermittent, I'd suspect the issue to be electrically related. Are you running the Vane Air meter on that, or is it speed density? If it is running on the VAF, unplug it and note any changes.
January 25th, 2015 06:12 PM
Mikel89us Not solved... Damn.
January 24th, 2015 08:31 PM
Mikel89us Update!

This is a preliminary update, as I'm not 100% sure its fixed. My egr tube has been cut off and welded shut. On the mustang I had the option to turn it off in the quarter horse. The ranger I didn't, but when I installed the motor I hooked it up. I was under the hood, and couldn't find and bad spark plug wires/loose connections so I unplugged the egr valve since I noticed it was plugged in. Then I left to go order spark plug wires and get gas. Well the whole trip it never missfired. So hopefully problem solved! I did still order the plug wires.
January 23rd, 2015 12:46 AM
Mikel89us Tps is the same one I had in the mustang, I took the whole motor.out, and swapped mounts then dropped it in the ranger. I do not have a set of the stock injectors, or I would have spread put them in. I'm considering a boport cam in the very near future, stage 1.5, and need to find some stock tc injectors. Also, the pcv has been eliminated, got a primitive draft tube style setup on it.

---------- Post added at 11:46 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:43 PM ----------

Fuel pressure gauge isn't a bad idea, but I have the same setup that was in the car without this issue, and its got a better fuel pump than the mustang had. I'll give that a shot sometime. It also missfires at idle too, you can hear a stumble every once in a while.
January 23rd, 2015 12:09 AM
OHC230 I'd go grab a fuel pressure gauge and watch the pressure as you drive, to eliminate that as a possibility.

Make sure the PCV and vacuum hoses aren't cracked somewhere.

Might want to put the stock injectors back in temporarily and go for a road test.

I assume you swapped the TPS all ready? Try unplugging it and see how it reacts.
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