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post #1 of 23 Old June 5th, 2011, 02:25 PM Thread Starter
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Brake Upgrade Parts+Install

really rotor and pad replacement/upgrade don't think i should upgrade calipers unless i need to?

what rotor and pad combo should i go with? i was thinking that i would go with the best cheap set i could find on ebay?

I want to install them myself however, i'm never done this and tbh i'm not that good

all advice/suggestions welcome and appreciated
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post #2 of 23 Old June 5th, 2011, 02:27 PM Thread Starter
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post #3 of 23 Old June 5th, 2011, 04:20 PM
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A set of slotted rotors (zinc coated) and ceramic pads are pretty good. No need to upgrade calipers. Install is easy. Take the wheels off and each caliper is held on by 2 bolts (13mm I believe). Front caliper pistons simply press in but for the rears twist in so you'll need a caliper compression kit (I got one for $20 at Harbor Freight with multiple attachments) or the cube tool which is like $8. Caliper brackets have to come off and each one is only held on by 2 bolts. Pull those off then the rotors will slide right off so you can slide the new ones on. Bolt the caliper brackets back on, put a little brake grease on any part of the pads that touch metal, put the pads in, put the calipers on, bolt down the calipers, install the wheels, take the car off the jack stands, torque down the lug nuts, and go test out the new pads/rotors. Sometimes taking the cap off the master cylinder helps makes the calipers a little easier to compress.
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post #4 of 23 Old June 5th, 2011, 04:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcqueen View Post
A set of slotted rotors (zinc coated) and ceramic pads are pretty good. No need to upgrade calipers. Install is easy. Take the wheels off and each caliper is held on by 2 bolts (13mm I believe). Front caliper pistons simply press in but for the rears twist in so you'll need a caliper compression kit (I got one for $20 at Harbor Freight with multiple attachments) or the cube tool which is like $8. Caliper brackets have to come off and each one is only held on by 2 bolts. Pull those off then the rotors will slide right off so you can slide the new ones on. Bolt the caliper brackets back on, put a little brake grease on any part of the pads that touch metal, put the pads in, put the calipers on, bolt down the calipers, install the wheels, take the car off the jack stands, torque down the lug nuts, and go test out the new pads/rotors. Sometimes taking the cap off the master cylinder helps makes the calipers a little easier to compress.
It makes it a lot easier.

Don't get the cross drilled Rotors I've found that they wear a lot faster than the plain slotted rotors. I also had a cross drilled rotor crack under a heavy brake load (8 car pile up in a fog storm)

The slotted rotors allow air to pass easier and keeps the rotor cool which reduces brake pad stick and wear rates. The Zinc coating on them keeps the rust off. While your calipers are out might as well paint them.

Done so far:
windstar, port and polish lower, UDP, aluminum Drive shaft, 3.73lsd, and some other goodies.

Looking for a 4.2 next and maybe some spray.
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post #5 of 23 Old June 5th, 2011, 04:55 PM Thread Starter
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yeah i was going to ask, how to paint them good and what paint?

and i've heard of the drilled cracking a lot

so i should jut go with slotted rotors?
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post #6 of 23 Old June 5th, 2011, 04:57 PM
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Slotted is good.
And Advanced has caliper paint. Clean them up real good with a rough sand paper and wipe them off then paint.

Done so far:
windstar, port and polish lower, UDP, aluminum Drive shaft, 3.73lsd, and some other goodies.

Looking for a 4.2 next and maybe some spray.
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post #7 of 23 Old June 5th, 2011, 04:59 PM Thread Starter
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I can't really find any deals on ebay for just slotted rotors? they're all drilled and slotted
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post #8 of 23 Old June 5th, 2011, 04:59 PM Thread Starter
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what grit would be good?
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post #9 of 23 Old June 5th, 2011, 05:02 PM
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I used 80 but that just because that's what I had in the tool box. I just sanded the rust off mine and gave them a good few coats of black. They looked pretty good for awhile but they need cleaned bad atm.

Done so far:
windstar, port and polish lower, UDP, aluminum Drive shaft, 3.73lsd, and some other goodies.

Looking for a 4.2 next and maybe some spray.
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post #10 of 23 Old June 6th, 2011, 09:21 PM
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i got the ones from the second link and have had them for about a year now no issues. great stopping power too. very good bang for your buck i think

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post #11 of 23 Old June 7th, 2011, 12:37 AM
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Slotted cool quicker. Solid last longer. Slotted will eat up the pads a lot quicker than what a solid will.


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post #12 of 23 Old June 7th, 2011, 12:52 AM
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when i replace mine im going with slotted, some guys go with both drilled and slotted but ive heard that it weakens the rotors.

i know stangmods has some pretty decent pricing on rotors and brakes, they sell some complete brake packages too.

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post #13 of 23 Old June 7th, 2011, 12:55 AM
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Truthfully, unless you have the power upgrades to need them, just go with your OEM stuff.

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post #14 of 23 Old June 7th, 2011, 03:34 AM
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Originally Posted by walt1120 View Post
when i replace mine im going with slotted, some guys go with both drilled and slotted but ive heard that it weakens the rotors.
I believe having the holes drilling in the rotors makes them more prone to cracking. I've been running my drilled and slotted rotors for over a year with no issues, although I tend to engine brake quite a bit.
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post #15 of 23 Old June 7th, 2011, 03:54 AM
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Originally Posted by mcqueen View Post
I believe having the holes drilling in the rotors makes them more prone to cracking. I've been running my drilled and slotted rotors for over a year with no issues, although I tend to engine brake quite a bit.
yeah me is a poor auto though

me cant do da engine brake

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post #16 of 23 Old June 7th, 2011, 04:48 AM
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Tis a sad day
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post #17 of 23 Old June 7th, 2011, 11:37 AM Thread Starter
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yeah i've heard that the drilled crack, a lot, especially on auto x which im hoping to do some of, and yeah im gonna go oem style but i figured one of those ebay packages would be the best deal?
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post #18 of 23 Old June 7th, 2011, 11:38 AM Thread Starter
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should i just go with solid then? get my current rotors turned?
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post #19 of 23 Old June 7th, 2011, 06:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Elias101a View Post
should i just go with solid then? get my current rotors turned?
Go get your rotors measured and turned. There's no point in switching to probably lower quality rotors if yours are still good.

It'll turn this into like a $60 brake job.

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post #20 of 23 Old June 7th, 2011, 07:10 PM Thread Starter
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idk if they're still good?
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