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post #21 of 38 Old May 30th, 2012, 08:15 PM
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There are lots of places that do mail order tunes such as the one ^ or else VMP, or else Trick tuners.

I personally have dealt with Trick tuners and have had great luck and they have been very helpful and very fast response.

I've dealt with them all....

Go with the one I posted now... period.

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post #22 of 38 Old May 30th, 2012, 08:36 PM Thread Starter
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There are lots of places that do mail order tunes such as the one ^ or else VMP, or else Trick tuners.

I personally have dealt with Trick tuners and have had great luck and they have been very helpful and very fast response.
Did your Cam fit in direct bolt on?


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post #23 of 38 Old May 30th, 2012, 08:48 PM
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Did your Cam fit in direct bolt on?
Nothing is a direct bolt on about a cam swap.

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post #24 of 38 Old May 30th, 2012, 11:16 PM Thread Starter
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Nothing is a direct bolt on about a cam swap.
So if you make me one that I buy from you what else will I need to buy?


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post #25 of 38 Old May 31st, 2012, 05:21 AM
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Yes but if you have LTs and no cats your car will be LOUD!!!! I toasted my old motor that was cammed in my car and I have LT's hi flow cats, and mufflers and the car used to be pretty fricken loud. No with no aftermarket cam the car is quiet!!!

They make the vehicle much louder due to much more exhaust flow and more HP.

I would look at getting a decent cam for all around. Because a smaller cam will give decent gains and good driveability. And then if you want to add a power adder later you can.

I personally have the comp max street strip cam it is 218 int and 226 exh with a .500" lift on both intake and exhaust. It has a 112 LSA. It is a decent cam if you like a rough idle. It has lots of overlap in it and idles rough. It worked great for DD and I even had no problems starting the car in -30 temps in the winter with it. You could go smaller than that if you want. It is up to your goals with the car.

EDIT: since you don't want an agressive one I would go with like a 212 or so on the intake and 218 on exhaust somewhere in there with a 112-114 LSA.
We have the same cam then lol

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post #26 of 38 Old May 31st, 2012, 05:27 AM
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Go to mikes thread

Bust basically ..
Push rods
Lifters
gaskets (top end kit is all you need imo)
I got my valves cleaned
retainers / keepers
cam (duh)
I replaced timeing gears and chain but that was my choice


Dont for get tto port your heads....or break you oil pan -.-

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post #27 of 38 Old May 31st, 2012, 05:28 AM
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Codeman got vid? I got a similar set up...just catted...

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post #28 of 38 Old May 31st, 2012, 08:59 AM
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I dont toasted the motor on that setup so I got to swap over the cam.

And you don't have to buy new lifters. They are roller lifters and as long as they don't look worn then you are fine reusing them. Also pushrods should not need to be changed unless you go something insane on the cam. And you will need lower intake gasket, upper intake, timing cover, water pump, and some silicone those are the gaskets. And then you will need valve cover gaskets and need to get new springs and retainers.


UDP, CAI, True Duals, LTs, 91 Tune from TT, 3.73 gears, Tlok,Windstar upper, GT TB, Ported lower, Comp 218/226 cam, FRPP C Springs, J&M LCA, Tokico Blue shocks and struts, and J&M Full Length Subframe Connectors
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post #29 of 38 Old May 31st, 2012, 09:34 AM Thread Starter
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I dont toasted the motor on that setup so I got to swap over the cam.

And you don't have to buy new lifters. They are roller lifters and as long as they don't look worn then you are fine reusing them. Also pushrods should not need to be changed unless you go something insane on the cam. And you will need lower intake gasket, upper intake, timing cover, water pump, and some silicone those are the gaskets. And then you will need valve cover gaskets and need to get new springs and retainers.
So make Me a list of what I'll need for that lumpy Cam please


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post #30 of 38 Old May 31st, 2012, 10:09 AM
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Basically you will need:

Water pump gasket
Timing cover gasket
Valve cover gaskets
lower intake gasket
upper intake gasket
silicone rtv
camshaft

depending on vehicle mileage and condition of lifters possibly lifters if in poor shape or high miles

valve springs, I went with comp 915 springs COMP Cams: Beehive™ Valve Springs: Top 1.055" O.D., .650" I.D.; Bottom 1.290" O.D., .885" I.D. You can use some LS springs but be carefull.

You will need to run 99-04 mustang GT retainers with those comp springs to get correct installed height.

New valve keepers since you will likely loose some when putting in the springs.

That is it as far as parts.

You will need to get a spring compressor for on the car and a hose that will thread into your spark plug hole that will connect to an air compressor to hold the valves closed when swapping valve springs.

Then just basic hand tools.

EDIT: I guess you will need a tune

Coolant
Oil
And oil filter as well.


UDP, CAI, True Duals, LTs, 91 Tune from TT, 3.73 gears, Tlok,Windstar upper, GT TB, Ported lower, Comp 218/226 cam, FRPP C Springs, J&M LCA, Tokico Blue shocks and struts, and J&M Full Length Subframe Connectors
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post #31 of 38 Old May 31st, 2012, 12:42 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks, first I need for my long tubes to get here, than install my gears and t-lok, than put in my ported intake, and than the Cam
But will I need to get my heads ported?


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post #32 of 38 Old May 31st, 2012, 02:11 PM
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If you are getting your heads ported put the valve springs in then, it is much easier with a valve spring compressor made for doing it with the heads off. Also your ported intake you could wait and do at that same time to save on gaskets.


UDP, CAI, True Duals, LTs, 91 Tune from TT, 3.73 gears, Tlok,Windstar upper, GT TB, Ported lower, Comp 218/226 cam, FRPP C Springs, J&M LCA, Tokico Blue shocks and struts, and J&M Full Length Subframe Connectors
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post #33 of 38 Old May 31st, 2012, 05:57 PM
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I used ls springs lol and to the best of my knowledge its. Benn fine
also i didnt use gt retainers unless the ones from comp cams are gt retainers (i used the one recomended)
Like he said you dont need new rods or lofters but seeing i had 135k, miles i dint wanna open up the engine do all this work and.somthing went and then dig back into it

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post #34 of 38 Old May 31st, 2012, 06:56 PM Thread Starter
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I used ls springs lol and to the best of my knowledge its. Benn fine
also i didnt use gt retainers unless the ones from comp cams are gt retainers (i used the one recomended)
Like he said you dont need new rods or lofters but seeing i had 135k, miles i dint wanna open up the engine do all this work and.somthing went and then dig back into it
I have barely 102k miles do I need new rods or lifters


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post #35 of 38 Old May 31st, 2012, 10:28 PM
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Probably not, I had like 90k and mine looked fine. Basically you would just have to see if your lifters show signs of wear on the roller part. Which I doubt they do.

And the comp retainers are basically the same thing as gt retainers. The GT retainers are just cheaper I paid 16 bucks for the GT retainers from FORD.


UDP, CAI, True Duals, LTs, 91 Tune from TT, 3.73 gears, Tlok,Windstar upper, GT TB, Ported lower, Comp 218/226 cam, FRPP C Springs, J&M LCA, Tokico Blue shocks and struts, and J&M Full Length Subframe Connectors
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post #36 of 38 Old June 1st, 2012, 02:58 AM
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Agreed lol
Mine showed no signs like the typical sign would be the roller.part it self.might be/could be

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post #37 of 38 Old June 1st, 2012, 09:07 AM
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Ya basically the only thing that happens is the lifters start to stick internally but that case you will hear ticking or else the roller wears.


UDP, CAI, True Duals, LTs, 91 Tune from TT, 3.73 gears, Tlok,Windstar upper, GT TB, Ported lower, Comp 218/226 cam, FRPP C Springs, J&M LCA, Tokico Blue shocks and struts, and J&M Full Length Subframe Connectors
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post #38 of 38 Old April 7th, 2014, 11:59 PM
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retainers

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Probably not, I had like 90k and mine looked fine. Basically you would just have to see if your lifters show signs of wear on the roller part. Which I doubt they do.

And the comp retainers are basically the same thing as gt retainers. The GT retainers are just cheaper I paid 16 bucks for the GT retainers from FORD.
*** is there a certain model number for which retainers from FORD I will need I am ordering the 210/218 /00/.500


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