Thermostat housing not flat? - Forums at Modded Mustangs
 
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post #1 of 20 Old August 3rd, 2013, 01:57 AM Thread Starter
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Thermostat housing not flat?

I believe the housing is not flat. I've gone through 4 gaskets, 2 tubes of rtv and a curse storm. When I drive the car it leaks a puddle right under the housing but only when driven not while parked. How can I check if its warped so I dont buy a new housing for no reason or can I fix my stock housing?


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post #2 of 20 Old August 3rd, 2013, 09:16 AM
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Well depending on how badly its potentially warped you could take something you know for a fact is perfectly straight and put it across, if you see significant gaps then you know its warped. I would expect to see SOME light regardless though, so dont think all is lost if you see a little. For example I have a high precision little ruler that I know has a real straight edge. If you want an accurate measurement of exactly how warped it is you could use some feeler gauges, that would give you the best idea on whether its actually warped. Slide them between the gap and if in one spot you can fit a bigger gauge than the rest then its got some warp.
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post #3 of 20 Old August 3rd, 2013, 11:02 AM
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I had a similar problem...mine was a small leak. What i finally did was buy a felpro permant gasket for the housing..couple of bucks. Tht solved it for me.


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post #4 of 20 Old August 3rd, 2013, 11:14 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by warthogdriver View Post
I had a similar problem...mine was a small leak. What i finally did was buy a felpro permant gasket for the housing..couple of bucks. Tht solved it for me.
Where did you get that gasket from? Is it the rubber one? Cause if so it didnt work for me


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post #5 of 20 Old August 3rd, 2013, 02:59 PM
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autozone.
its blue and orange...i think its hard rubber / silicon shell


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post #6 of 20 Old August 3rd, 2013, 03:18 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by warthogdriver View Post
autozone.
its blue and orange...i think its hard rubber / silicon shell
Do you mean black and orange? Its like a kind of thick rubber gasket? Its their "best" gasket that cost $10 vs their other $.99c gaskets?


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post #7 of 20 Old August 4th, 2013, 11:26 PM
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Yup your right, they warp after a while. Mine was warpped when I had the singleport setup.

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post #8 of 20 Old August 5th, 2013, 09:32 AM
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Yeah...its the most expense gasket option...felpro for the win


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post #9 of 20 Old August 6th, 2013, 01:20 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by warthogdriver View Post
Yeah...its the most expense gasket option...felpro for the win
Well I tried it and it didnt work.
Whats strange is that it only leaks when I drive the car not when it idles. What I did notice is that it SPRAYS the coolant cause I had it on the cold air intake and upper intake and the area under the thermostat housing is flooded. But the problem is I cant tell where exactly the leak is coming from because it only SPRAYS when driving. I guess ill shell out the money for a new housing


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post #10 of 20 Old August 6th, 2013, 08:03 AM
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Try leaving the in neutral and have someone rev it while you watch. The engine wont care if its in drive or not...only that the rpms are up there. What i would try.


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post #11 of 20 Old August 6th, 2013, 09:12 AM
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Want a great way to plane a surface? Get a belt sander. Not even kidding. That's one of the age old tricks to making sure header surfaces are completely flat before installation. Use a fairly fine grit and sand it until it's even with no spots of untouched metal.
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post #12 of 20 Old August 6th, 2013, 03:36 PM
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Originally Posted by WickedSnake00 View Post
Want a great way to plane a surface? Get a belt sander. Not even kidding. That's one of the age old tricks to making sure header surfaces are completely flat before installation. Use a fairly fine grit and sand it until it's even with no spots of untouched metal.
I was going to suggest a sanding block and 400 grit sand paper but didn't want to sound stupid. I guess either one would work, its a cheap alternative and you don't have anything to lose because if it doesn't work you'll have to replace the housing either way.
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post #13 of 20 Old August 6th, 2013, 05:21 PM Thread Starter
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I was going to suggest a sanding block and 400 grit sand paper but didn't want to sound stupid. I guess either one would work, its a cheap alternative and you don't have anything to lose because if it doesn't work you'll have to replace the housing either way.
I dont have a sanding belt, but I do have a sanding block. I guess I'll give it a try


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post #14 of 20 Old August 6th, 2013, 07:46 PM
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^^^ old school for the win.
anything larger then the base of the housing should work.


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post #15 of 20 Old August 6th, 2013, 07:56 PM
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I mean even if you end up angling it slightly as long as theres no grooves or anything I imagine it should work fine. Its not exactly high precision there
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post #16 of 20 Old August 6th, 2013, 08:47 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by warthogdriver View Post
^^^ old school for the win.
anything larger then the base of the housing should work.
Heck yeah I've heard that on some methods old school is better and add the "pristine" factor lol

Greenshift: I have access to the FORD diagrams and it showed the housing followed by thermo gasket and finally thermostat. BUT on multiple forums I read that they recommend the housing followed by the thermostat and finally the thermo gasket.
Which method should I go with? I've been going with the second method due to the thermostat being held in the groove of the housing by the gasket but I guess the ford diagrams are there for a reason


"I wonder if I sprayed some on my junk, I could go raw dog and not get herpes. But first I'd have to find a female willing to have relations."-kmac1622
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post #17 of 20 Old August 7th, 2013, 05:23 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by 03 cristian View Post
Heck yeah I've heard that on some methods old school is better and add the "pristine" factor lol

Greenshift: I have access to the FORD diagrams and it showed the housing followed by thermo gasket and finally thermostat. BUT on multiple forums I read that they recommend the housing followed by the thermostat and finally the thermo gasket.
Which method should I go with? I've been going with the second method due to the thermostat being held in the groove of the housing by the gasket but I guess the ford diagrams are there for a reason
Anyone?


"I wonder if I sprayed some on my junk, I could go raw dog and not get herpes. But first I'd have to find a female willing to have relations."-kmac1622
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post #18 of 20 Old August 7th, 2013, 06:54 PM
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when i installed i mine i dropped it in the groove then gasket then housing.
worked for me.
just apply rtv on both sides for insurance.


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post #19 of 20 Old August 7th, 2013, 09:18 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by warthogdriver View Post
when i installed i mine i dropped it in the groove then gasket then housing.
worked for me.
just apply rtv on both sides for insurance.
Well ill be damned I found the leak. I got the car to running temp...reved to 3k and its the hose that is connected to the bleeder valve. I let it cool down and changed the factory clamp and its fixed. Reps to you and greenshift though(when I get on a computer) cause of the ideas


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post #20 of 20 Old August 7th, 2013, 09:50 PM
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see, there ya go. one problem down.
glad to see you got it.
i hate factory clamps...if i touch one they are gone. i keep several in a tool box for emergency use and toss the rest.


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