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post #1 of 36 Old April 28th, 2015, 01:25 AM Thread Starter
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Talking Custom Exhaust Build NEED HELP!

Hey I got a mostly stock 1999 V6 mustang, which seems to have over half of the car replaced with 2000 Mustang pieces, and need help with a custom exhaust setup I want fabricated at a local shop. (I live in the GTA [Ontario]) Anyways my future plans for the car are to do a m112 build (supercharger) while swapping the body kit for the 03-04 cobra and replacing the rear end with a GT or Mach 1's rear end (don't want the IRS). I was wondering if my exhaust setup I was planning on getting done in a couple weeks is a viable option for my car. (Keep in mind it is currently pretty much stock and the supercharger wont be added in until about summertime) PS. Have not yet gotten any quotes and am still looking for a shop to do it.

Anyone have an approx price range?

I want to convert my stock V6 exhaust to duals and put in electric exhaust cutouts (heard that QTP has good quality ones) after the cats and lead them towards the side trim of the car and have them exit there (near the rear wheel well) using an H pipe for more of a deep grow. I was thinking long tube headers as I wont be going turbo'd and read that the gains are better due to better flow. I was also wondering which cat back exhaust system you guys have had the best results from. Which would give me the deepest muscle car sound? (trying to make the car seem like a 03-04 cobra and surprise everyone with it being a v6) Also heard changing the cams would get that effect pretty well but that's later. Also for piping I was thinking somewhere from 2.5'-3' but for sure I want real 3' tips (or larger) as the 2.5' look too small for my liking. Anyone know what effect that will have? Also how will clearance be? I do have the car slightly lowered about 1-1.5' on all sides. I'm ordering new shocks and struts from American muscle and getting larger staggered rims too so I shouldn't be bouncing all over the place. My budget for this exhaust setup is $1000 but I figure ill probably end up going overboard anyway.

Bear with me I am new to all of this and am still learning. Am open to everyone's tips and opinions.

Also anyone have any experience with these headers from AM?
MAC Ceramic Long Tube Mustang Headers TF6990 (99-00 V6) - Free Shipping

Would it be cheaper and better to get the shop to custom fabricate the exhaust from the headers to the mid pipe (must keep cats for emissions) and bolt on a catback exhaust system? Or should I be going with straight pipes. Also if I went with this setup and opened the side cutouts would most of the air flow be going through the side cutouts? That's what I want but I saw a YouTube video of someone with a similar setup and it seemed like their cutouts were not doing anything.

Here's the video (sounds to me like they work tho)

Looking forward to figuring this out with you

MUCH LOVE TO ANYONE WHO IS KIND ENOUGH TO HELP ME OUT AND CREATE A DIAGRAM OF THE SETUP AS DETAILED AS POSSIBLE! It would make it a million time easier for me to show to a friend of mine who could possibly do most of the custom work and the basic installs. (He probably wont fabricate the headers) Measurements would be great too if you know what your doing.
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post #2 of 36 Old April 28th, 2015, 01:47 AM
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For all the money youd have to spend to beef up that V6 to handle a supercharger and swap out the exhaust, drivetrain parts and all the fine little details inbetween you mine as well buy a new car. Youd pretty much be replacing everything top to bottom. Also V6 mustangs dont come with IRS? Only the cobra comes with independent rear suspension... Which is better than a solid axle. I dont know why you wouldnt want IRS. But yea youre talking some big $$$. Not worth it at all IMO. Itd probably be cheaper to turbo, or get a nitrous set up.
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post #3 of 36 Old April 28th, 2015, 02:24 AM Thread Starter
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Hey thanks for the reply and I understand where your coming from but this is a build I'm really going to be getting into over time and I do understand the costs of it. I have done a lot of research and am actually considering buying a brand new 99-04 v6 engine to put the supercharger on while beefing it up at the same time. But before that I want to drive out my stock engine. (It has 180K km) Also I believe somewhere I read that the solid axle would be better at the drag strip and for the IRS cobra swap I would need to do quite a bit of custom work no? With the GT or Mach 1 rear end it is a direct bolt on build and the stock V6 frame has the mounting brackets already to support the Quad shocks. Please correct me if I'm wrong. Not to mention it would be a heck of a lot cheaper and less of a hassle than rebuilding and upgrading my stock rear end. Also I was planning on getting a methanol injection kit and nos later down the road. (Not anytime soon probably for next year) Sorry my information is just from all over the place would really love to learn more.

Oh and by that I meant I did not want the IRS from the cobra rear end I am aware that the v6's don't have an IRS.

Right now I really want to get the car done one step at a time so I'm not stuck working on like three different things at the same time and wasting time and money. (want everything to be as good as possible)
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post #4 of 36 Old April 28th, 2015, 10:48 AM
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Your cheapest bet is probably having a fab shop do the midpipe and then getting a catback system. Nothing is terribly cheap though. If you look on AM a catted V6 dual exhaust system is over $700. But that covers absolutely everything and is brand new. You can likely cut cost by running a used GT catback.

I would also note that AM has an O/R H pipe for longtubes on the V6, and a dual exhaust adapter kit for $180 and $150 respectively. (Incoming AM rep I'm sure.) They also carry the longtubes for what you may want.

Another thing I've looked into in the past is DIY midpipes. They basically send you a pack of pieces for $80, and you cut them to length and weld them for your application. Not too bad a deal.

Bottom line is the prices are out there, it's up to you to shop around and see what you can get, and what you want.
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post #5 of 36 Old April 28th, 2015, 10:56 AM
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I just want to chime in and say that if you are not doing any of the work yourself you can expect the cost of all this to be 4 to 5 times as much as you plan to spend. 1000 dollars on a good exhaust system will get you fixed up but it won't be anything custom and it definitely won't have any cut-outs. I think you could expect to be in the 2000 to 2500 dollar range for something custom.

Here is a mine dumped out the side in front of the rear wheel. Material cost was, Shorty headers $400, Magnaflow magnapacks $150, 2 High flow Magnaflow cats $150, 2.5" pipe material was about $300. That is without even getting it built. Me and a buddy did that. I think a shop would have probably charged 1500 to build it. Just a wild guess though.

Under the car:

Side Shot:

Another side shot:
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post #6 of 36 Old April 28th, 2015, 11:31 AM Thread Starter
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Exhaust setup

Wow thanks for all the replies! I am well aware of AM's great reputation I actually order parts from there quite often. WickedSnake00 I was thinking the same about getting GT catback with possibly flowmaster 10's and having the midpipe and cutouts custom fabricated. Also do you know a reputable place to order this DIY midpipe? Iasis, I know what you mean I was thinking the same thing but I actually have a good connection on a place who could do all the bending and welding pretty much for free. (not even any labour costs) Only problem is that it is not dedicated to exhaust systems and I want everything figured out before I go with the plan and I would need to get all the parts beforehand (except maybe piping). Then I will be taking all the parts and we can put it together there. Also where did you order your piping material? I was shopping around and saw quite a few stainless steel 2.5"x5' piping for around the 70$ range. How much do you think I would need? (Oh and by the way, great ride!)

Also are these a good idea? Apparently it would be required with a side exhaust setup.
SPINTECH'S SUBFRAME CONNECTOR For '86-'04 Mustangs - MUSTANG SUBFRAME CONNECTORS - '86-'04 Mustang Stepped Sub Frame Connector - SpinTech Performance Mufflers

Here is a list of parts so far. Let me know what else I still need.

Long Tube Headers
MAC Ceramic Long Tube Mustang Headers TF6990 (99-00 V6) - Free Shipping

Electric Cutout Exhaust
Pypes Electric Mustang Exhaust Cutout Kit HVE10K (79-14 All) - Free Shipping

High Flow Cats that work well for forced induction systems
Pypes High Flow Metallic Mustang Catalytic Converter Kit CVM11K (86-10 All) - Free Shipping

x2 Flowmaster 10's

x2 3.5" Exhaust Tips
Where can I find them?

GT Catback Exhaust

New Hanger kit
Pypes Mustang Exhaust Hanger Kit HFH30 (99-04 All) - Free Shipping

2.5" Stainless Steel Piping
???? a good place?

Estimated amount of Gaskets/seals, Clamps?

Also for the side exhausts because of possible clearance issues would it be a good idea to get piping that is oval shaped instead of round? Also anyone know a place to get good exhaust tips for them? I think I want to go with 3" Piping for the side exhausts.
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post #7 of 36 Old April 28th, 2015, 02:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tntgangsta View Post
Wow thanks for all the replies! I am well aware of AM's great reputation I actually order parts from there quite often. WickedSnake00 I was thinking the same about getting GT catback with possibly flowmaster 10's and having the midpipe and cutouts custom fabricated. Also do you know a reputable place to order this DIY midpipe? Iasis, I know what you mean I was thinking the same thing but I actually have a good connection on a place who could do all the bending and welding pretty much for free. (not even any labour costs) Only problem is that it is not dedicated to exhaust systems and I want everything figured out before I go with the plan and I would need to get all the parts beforehand (except maybe piping). Then I will be taking all the parts and we can put it together there. Also where did you order your piping material? I was shopping around and saw quite a few stainless steel 2.5"x5' piping for around the 70$ range. How much do you think I would need? (Oh and by the way, great ride!)

Thanks and Honestly I don't know because I didn't go out the rear with my setup. Your going to need to measure it and buy extra just in case. I bought mine from summit racing but I bought bends and straights and cut and welded them together. Every part of that exhaust including the X-pipe was a straight or bend.

Also are these a good idea? Apparently it would be required with a side exhaust setup.
SPINTECH'S SUBFRAME CONNECTOR For '86-'04 Mustangs - MUSTANG SUBFRAME CONNECTORS - '86-'04 Mustang Stepped Sub Frame Connector - SpinTech Performance Mufflers

Nope you don't need those but if you wanted to reinforce the chassis those would work well for clearance.

Here is a list of parts so far. Let me know what else I still need.

Long Tube Headers
MAC Ceramic Long Tube Mustang Headers TF6990 (99-00 V6) - Free Shipping

I have never used MAC but never heard any complaints about them either. Just avoid Pacesetter.

Electric Cutout Exhaust
Pypes Electric Mustang Exhaust Cutout Kit HVE10K (79-14 All) - Free Shipping

If you have to have cut-outs these look nice.

High Flow Cats that work well for forced induction systems
Pypes High Flow Metallic Mustang Catalytic Converter Kit CVM11K (86-10 All) - Free Shipping

Heard alot of bad reviews about Pypes high flow cats and they are pretty pricey. Lot of people claim they blew them out. I have personally blown out a Flowmaster one myself.

x2 Flowmaster 10's

x2 3.5" Exhaust Tips
Where can I find them?

Summit Racing has a ton of options

GT Catback Exhaust

New Hanger kit
Pypes Mustang Exhaust Hanger Kit HFH30 (99-04 All) - Free Shipping

You shouldn't need these. The GT and V6 ones are already there but a good cat-back kit comes with new ones.

2.5" Stainless Steel Piping
???? a good place?

Summit Racing

Estimated amount of Gaskets/seals, Clamps?

I would just let the shop cover those but I like V-bands for holding everything together. You will need to probably draw a rough sketch of your exhaust and figure out how many you need. You want to weld as many things as possible though. Major parts that need to seperate are Headers to Midpipe, then midpipe to axle-back. So I would say at a minimum you will need 4 clamps/v-bands

Also for the side exhausts because of possible clearance issues would it be a good idea to get piping that is oval shaped instead of round? Also anyone know a place to get good exhaust tips for them? I think I want to go with 3" Piping for the side exhausts.
Oval would be better for cleanrance. Mine is only 2.5" and I wish I had more clearance.
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post #8 of 36 Old April 29th, 2015, 12:37 AM Thread Starter
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Exhaust Setup Inhanced

Alright so here is what I got so far then. Still a lot more questions.

Let me know if this order and setup is doable and works and if I am missing any small pieces needed.

Ok so from the headers down (In order) is as follows:

MAC Ceramic long tube headers
MAC Ceramic Long Tube Mustang Headers TF6990 (99-00 V6) - Free Shipping

Also for these long tube headers what flanges fit them? How would I go about putting that onto the unbent piping? Would the V-Bands work? I am not familiar with how the work. (I'll do some research tomorrow)

Anyone know if I should be using these? Also what length is best? They come from like 4" long to 10". I'll be using 2.5" piping. I read I should have this if I have a forced induction system to reduce vibrations and stress on the exhaust system.
x2 Vibrant Turboflex Couplings
http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/vpe-60804

I was told from AM these cats would work plus they are a heck of a lot cheaper
Dual SLP High Flow Cats
SLP High Flow Mustang Catalytic Converter Kit M31040 (96-10 All) - Free Shipping

I want to have my cats bolted in so I can replace them easy so which of these will work best?
x2 Band Clamps
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-692250
OR
Saddle Clamps
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/dx...250b/overview/

For some reason I feel like this universal H-pipe kit would not work the greatest because there is no way to bolt them onto my long tube headers (at least built into the kit). I was thinking of making the setup like this (In order) Headers, Flange made on a small amount of 2.5" Piping, Vibrant Couplings, More 2.5" piping, High Flow Cats, H-Pipe. Would this setup in this order work? Anything else I'm missing? (I mean from the H-pipe to the headers)
Universal H-Pipe Kit
http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/sum-642025

Electric Exhaust Cutouts after the H-pipes
Pypes Electric Mustang Exhaust Cutout Kit HVE10K (79-14 All) - Free Shipping

Possibly x2 Band Clamps (to clamp in the exhaust cutouts apart from welding them in just not sure if these would be a good fit and not leak)
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-692250


FOR SIDE EXHAUST

Still looking for an adapter that supports a 3" Inlet where I can add a flange and bolt it to the Cutouts which has a 3.5" Oval shaped Outlet to support this piping. Any help with the search?
http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/vpe-13170 (Would this Work? Says it has a 6' outlet for some reason) Is it measuring the width of the oval shape?

3" Flange Kit to bolt the adapter to the exhaust cutout (kit should be enough for both sides)
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/pte-h7268/overview/

3.5" Oval Piping I can bend into shape. A little pricey but I was wondering how I would get exhaust tips onto there given the shape. (Want a Chrome finish on the tips) Plus I think the given 5' should be enough for both sides but was wondering if someone could find some pipe for cheaper. (hoping this 3.5" is not too small if it is measured width wise although it should be good)
3.5" Oval Piping 5' Long
http://www.summitracing.com/int/part...3183/overview/

Still looking for exhaust tips as I'm stumbled with the fitment options and not really sure what look I want to go for (Have to figure it out based on what side skirts I want as the stock Cobra ones are not anything special) I was thinking of possibly putting the Rouge side skirts on with the 03-04 Cobra body style. Any opinions on how that would look?


CONTINUED EXHAUST

Need to figure out dimensions to see if I can get the GT catback to bolt straight on the electric cutouts without modifications for this part. Have to get everything before the cutouts the perfect length. (would make it a lot easier in my opinion)

GT Catback Exhaust (will be Taken from another mustang but I will shop around for different kinds and see if I can find used flowmasters to keep costs down)

x2 Flowmaster 40's or Super40's
Flowmaster Original 40 Series Offset Mustang Muffler - 2.5in 42543 (79-04 All, Excludes 99-04 Cobra) - Free Shipping

Extra Stainless steel 2.5' Piping. One 5' length should be enough
http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/flo-mb125048

Looking for 4' Tips. Found some locally because I couldn't find them on summit. (I want them to be really long because I like the chrome look so I'm looking for them to be at least 10" long)

Pypes Hanger Kit In case the GT catback does not come with them. (Also heard that the V6 Stock hangers are longer than the GT and Pypes Hangers so I might just get them so I don't have a lopsided exhaust. That wouldn't look the greatest)
Pypes Mustang Exhaust Hanger Kit HFH30 (99-04 All) - Free Shipping


So pretty much to summarize everything for those who don't really want to read it all and figure out whatever is up there for me, here is the order so far: (Let me know if I am missing anything)

MAC Ceramic Long Tube Headers Possibly with V-Band Clamps
Custom Pipe with welded on Vibrant Couplings + a little more piping
SLP High Flow Catalytic Converters clamped on
Universal H-Pipe Kit (All welded)
Electric Exhaust Cutout (Clamped or welded as I am currently unsure)
GT catback exhaust (Clamped to the Exhaust cutout with the flange but the rest will be welded together)
Flowmaster Super 40's or Original 40's (Welded)
4" Chrome Tips on each side (Welded)

And from the Exhaust Cutouts to the fender exhausts
Round to Oval Adapter with 3" Inlet and 3.5" Outlet (still searching for this) with welded on flanges
3.5" Oval Piping bent to desired shape (Probably end up being one large bent pipe with no seams if possible)
Still looking for tips to fit (and that I like) (Obviously welded on too)

Plus Pypes Exhaust Hanger Kit.

Another thing I was wondering about was if I should keep the amount of un-welded joints (apart from the headers to midpipe and midpipe to catbacks or in this case cutouts to side exhaust and cutouts to catbacks) to a minimum due to possible leaks, rattles, undesired movement, etc. Because of this I'm not sure if It is a good idea to not weld in the electric exhaust cutouts. I was thinking of leaving them un-welded so that if there was a problem with them I could just pop them out and replace them apart from cutting my exhaust system. It was just a thought.

Truly a great custom exhaust in my opinion It's actually my first time doing this so I will be a great accomplishment

ALSO STILL LOOKING FOR SOMEONE WHO CAN SKETCH ME UP A DIAGRAM OF MY END RESULT SETUP USING THE DIMENSIONS OF A 1999 V6 MUSTANG AND SEND IT TO ME! (Preferably on the computer) would help me quite a bit and let me know how much piping I approximately need. Not sure how to do that myself so I would greatly appreciate it.

Also sorry that it took me so long to post I was busy doing some things and got home late plus it took me some time to do some research and learn more about this setup and what I would need + finding all the pieces. THIS TO ME IS BY FAR NOT PERFECT so expect some additions or changes because I think I'm missing something.... Other than gaskets.
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post #9 of 36 Old April 29th, 2015, 03:12 AM Thread Starter
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Custom Exhaust Setup Diagram

Well I found a way to make a diagram of the setup I will be using. It is not complete as I still don't know everything I will be using 100% or if I'm missing something but ill take this to my friend tomorrow and see what he says. Hopefully its a go.

Here it is at this link. Let me know if its not working it should be.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx6...ew?usp=sharing

**TO VIEW THE LINK YOU MUST HAVE GOOGLE CHROME AND USE THE APP Draw.io (legacy)***

Sorry for that I just made it on that and don't know how to change it. It's actually a very good app. I will edit the post if I find an alternative way to share it. Not sure how it works but you might also have to download it and then view it with the app.
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post #10 of 36 Old April 29th, 2015, 05:07 AM
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Hmmm well for a good exhauast set up i dont think itd be that much really. Maybe $500 tops. Go to AM and get there xpipe for like 200. Buy a set of high flow cats and have a exhaust shop weld them on or however youd like to do it. But honestly its gonna be a little harder to fabric cats that can be removed just by bolts. Id go for the mid pipe, high flow cats and a muffler delete. Youd get the most sound out of your stang for the cheapest price that way. I have a custom exhaust set up on my car... Just did a mufflee delete and removed 2 of the 4 cats and my car sounds perfect ���� id imagine you car would sound good with a setup like mine as well. Heres a video of my exhaust... http://youtu.be/LrVDXQ3Z9fs

"That which we manifest is before us"

1999 Mustang Cobra
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post #11 of 36 Old April 29th, 2015, 09:19 AM
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That is one big wall of text.

A couple of thoughts-

You don't need a flex pipe, at least not for a stock-line configuration like this. The angles of the exhaust, relatively low thermal expansion, and use of ball and socket joints do not create excessive stress necessitating a flex pipe. That would just add another leak and failure point in this case.

With all this clamp nonsense, you really want it to be a total of 3 pieces after the headers; the midpipe, the left catback and the right catback. The more pieces the more leaks, the more fitment issues, the more clamps, the more it's just a pain. For the joints between all of these I would use the ball and socket type connections. This is the kind that is on the factory GT models, and appears to be the type that is on those headers. It's a very forgiving joint and allows for plenty of movement while still providing good sealing. 3-bolt flange and slip fit have a tendency to leak, and V-band are just a pain in the ass that don't provide much movement.

Your request for side exhaust AND rear exhaust makes it much more complicated than it needs to be. For the cutouts, just have them pointing down, and that's the end of that. No sideskirts, no oval piping.

Doing measurements are kind of tough off the car, and may cause issues. A little error here and there stacks up, and before you know it, it's all wrong. It's best done on the car so you can check accordingly.

Here's how I would envision it:
Headers (w/ball and socket flanges)
H-pipe or X-pipe of your choice, weld in cats on the upstream side, weld in cutouts on the downstream side, weld on ball and socket flanges on either end.
GT catback, which will be 2.25" and already have ball and socket joints on it. Weld in the mufflers of your choice (or leave them) and clamp on exhaust tips of your choice.
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post #12 of 36 Old April 29th, 2015, 10:50 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WickedSnake00 View Post
That is one big wall of text.

A couple of thoughts-

You don't need a flex pipe, at least not for a stock-line configuration like this. The angles of the exhaust, relatively low thermal expansion, and use of ball and socket joints do not create excessive stress necessitating a flex pipe. That would just add another leak and failure point in this case.

I know what you mean but the car wont be stock for long because this summer I will start working on the engine and be doing the m112 Supercharger swap (99-04 M112 Supercharger Installation - MustangForums.com) plus quite a bit more here and there and I want this exhaust system to work with it without any modification. Just me thinking ahead. Are these couplings prone to leak easily?

With all this clamp nonsense, you really want it to be a total of 3 pieces after the headers; the midpipe, the left catback and the right catback. The more pieces the more leaks, the more fitment issues, the more clamps, the more it's just a pain. For the joints between all of these I would use the ball and socket type connections. This is the kind that is on the factory GT models, and appears to be the type that is on those headers. It's a very forgiving joint and allows for plenty of movement while still providing good sealing. 3-bolt flange and slip fit have a tendency to leak, and V-band are just a pain in the ass that don't provide much movement.

Again I know what you mean but the electric cutouts that I will be getting have 3-bolt flanges for the side exhaust cutouts so I will need them for that application for sure. I was just worried about something happening in the mid pipe making it easier to repair (don't know much about the quality and lifespan of these cutouts because I heard not to great things about other brands) and also just in case my cats do not pass emissions here in Ontario because I want this car to be Street Legal. If I was to weld these connections all together instead of clamping them how hard would it be to remove one of the components if there is an issue down the road? Also what is the process in which the ball and socket joint is made? How hard would it be to make them on the steel piping? Would it be a good idea to purchase couplings instead with them? Also for the GT catback I was thinking of cutting out the ball and socket joint and adding a small amount of piping then clamping/welding it to the cutouts.


Your request for side exhaust AND rear exhaust makes it much more complicated than it needs to be. For the cutouts, just have them pointing down, and that's the end of that. No sideskirts, no oval piping.

Doing measurements are kind of tough off the car, and may cause issues. A little error here and there stacks up, and before you know it, it's all wrong. It's best done on the car so you can check accordingly.

Yea I hear you. But would you know approx measurements? Just so I can get a good idea.

Here's how I would envision it:
Headers (w/ball and socket flanges)
H-pipe or X-pipe of your choice, weld in cats on the upstream side, weld in cutouts on the downstream side, weld on ball and socket flanges on either end.
GT catback, which will be 2.25" and already have ball and socket joints on it. Weld in the mufflers of your choice (or leave them) and clamp on exhaust tips of your choice.

Oh man I did not know the GT catback piping is 2.25" I was under the impression they were 2.5". I do not want to downsize pipe in my catbacks so I think ill either build my own or find ones that are 2.5". Any stock 99-04 mustang setups with them 2.5"? Otherwise ill start looking around into aftermarket catback exhaust systems.
Also thanks for the reply!
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post #13 of 36 Old April 29th, 2015, 12:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tntgangsta View Post
know what you mean but the car wont be stock for long because this summer I will start working on the engine and be doing the m112 Supercharger swap (99-04 M112 Supercharger Installation - MustangForums.com) plus quite a bit more here and there and I want this exhaust system to work with it without any modification. Just me thinking ahead. Are these couplings prone to leak easily?

Again I know what you mean but the electric cutouts that I will be getting have 3-bolt flanges for the side exhaust cutouts so I will need them for that application for sure. I was just worried about something happening in the mid pipe making it easier to repair (don't know much about the quality and lifespan of these cutouts because I heard not to great things about other brands) and also just in case my cats do not pass emissions here in Ontario because I want this car to be Street Legal. If I was to weld these connections all together instead of clamping them how hard would it be to remove one of the components if there is an issue down the road? Also what is the process in which the ball and socket joint is made? How hard would it be to make them on the steel piping? Would it be a good idea to purchase couplings instead with them? Also for the GT catback I was thinking of cutting out the ball and socket joint and adding a small amount of piping then clamping/welding it to the cutouts.
The two major factors flex joints account for are engine movement and thermal expansion. A V engine with headers and ball and socket flanges doesn't generate the kind of movement to justify it. Something like a transverse engine may require that. The other half is thermal expansion; you don't want pipes heating up a ton and pushing against each other, like with a single turbo V-engine. In that case they need it to keep the up pipes from cracking from stress. A blower engine with headers does not have this heat or stress. They're also more prone to rust out and leak compared to plain old pipe.

Dropping the midpipe with ball and socket flanges is a piece of cake. You loosen 8 bolts; 2 per pipe and it drops right out. A matter of minutes.

As for removing/replacing a cat, weld might not be too different than a slip fit. It would take a minute or two to cut it with a sawzall (ask any crackhead) and then a few more minutes to weld one back in. And with lots of slip fits in the rust belt, it might take a half our or more of fighting just to get a slip fit out without destroying it. I've been there.

Ball and flange sockets, much like other flanges, can be sold as ends you weld on, or made on a flaring machine. An exhaust shop can make them on a flaring machine if they have one. Or you can just buy them and weld the ends on.
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post #14 of 36 Old April 29th, 2015, 12:15 PM
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I am with wicked snake. You don't need the side dumped exhaust. Just makes the whole setup heavier and honestly you don't need the cut-outs because its just not going to sound good. And I am going being as serious as possible about that statement.

Right now I am thinking for you to forget the custom setup and do some sort of longtubes, into a catted H-pipe (probably have to get a shop to do that part), then to a cat-back setup of some sort. You don't just draw it out on a piece of paper and then go do it. It will come out all wrong. You need to get under the car (preferably with someone to help) with the exhaust off and measure it all out including angle of bends and where it need to go. Thats why I am recommending buying things that are already made.

And sorry I hate ball flanges because all they do it leak. Good exhaust systems don't use them and you sure as hell won't find them on a high end exotic sports car. Heck even Ford has dumped using them on the new Mustang. Why because they suck. Sorry its just the truth.
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post #15 of 36 Old April 29th, 2015, 03:10 PM Thread Starter
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Wow thanks again for the great replies!

WickedSnake00 thanks for informing me about that I will remove them from my setup then.

I found this H-Pipe I will be replacing the custom kit, the flex pipe and the cats with.
BBK Mustang Shorty H-Pipe Catted 1538 (96-04 4.6L w/ Long Tube Headers) - Free Shipping

Also something I was concerned about always looking at mustang exhaust systems is that one side pipe seems to extend out longer than the other. Why is this? Would this not result in an imbalanced distribution of the exhaust gasses? I heard making the exhaust parallel on both sides keep the flow better and creates a much better sound. I don't want the pressures to be different in each side of the pipe as it would make my cutouts look weird. (not sure how to explain it) I want, when the cutouts are open, for most of the exhaust gasses to pass through them to the side exhausts evenly and the rest evenly to the catbacks.

Also I was thinking I would have to cut the H-Pipe a small amount and also part of the Catbacks because the ball and socket type clamps wont work on the cutouts.

Also Iasis thank you for the tip but one of the main reasons why I am changing my exhaust is because I want the exhaust cutouts in the fender. Later down the road trust me it will be worth it and will look great.

Also what clamps do you recommend over the ball and socket flange? Seeing as how the pre-built pieces come with them I wont have much of a choice because I'm not trying to cut up $400 ceramic headers to change them at the moment. The way I see it is that ill also have to use the 3 bolt flanges for the side exhausts leading to the side trim. As for the inlets and outlets of the exhaust cutouts what would be the best clamps? Would band clamps be ideal in terms of having a strong fit and no leaks?

So taking into account what you have said is this a good setup then? (Sorry but I refuse to drop out the side fender exhausts + the catback combo)

MAC Long Tube Headers
BBK Shorty H-Pipe with High-flow Cats (Already built)
Pypes Electric Exhaust Cutouts
3.5' Oval Tubing for side exhausts
GT or another aftermarket catback exhaust system
4" exhaust tips

With this setup do you think I will need any extra 2.5" Exhaust piping?

Any other tips?
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post #16 of 36 Old April 29th, 2015, 03:25 PM
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And sorry I hate ball flanges because all they do it leak. Good exhaust systems don't use them and you sure as hell won't find them on a high end exotic sports car. Heck even Ford has dumped using them on the new Mustang. Why because they suck. Sorry its just the truth.
Every type of joint has it's strengths and weaknesses. I like ball and socket because with cars like this, they're very forgiving, seal pretty well, and are quick and easy to assemble/disassemble.

3 and 4 bolt flange can get a lot of clamping force and are very rigid, but don't allow any flex, and are prone to blowing out gaskets.

Marmon and all the different varieties you could write a whole article on. Full marmon seals very well. Most of the time. This is the preferred type connection for turbos, but man is it a royal pain in the dick to seat perfectly and clamp well. It also doesn't have any give. This is what you will see on a lot of high dollar installations, but they don't really have much for serviceability in mind, and have to be made with a very very high level of precision.

Slip fit/Torca is cheap and easy, but they leak like a sieve, can corrode together, and can also slip out.

I work with all of them on a regular basis and know the pros/cons to each. Even on OEM vehicles you will see a variety. Just on my pickup it was produced with dozens of marmons on the engine/turbo, 3-bolt flange on the aftertreatment, and slip fit on the rest. Note it's also a single exhaust and very straight. For my Mustang I've got half marmons on the exhaust (would have preferred full standard marmon) and ball and socket for the midpipe. I just think the midpipe and catback are too imprecise to have something as precise as a marmon connection under there. My two cents of course.

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Originally Posted by Tntgangsta View Post
Wow thanks again for the great replies!

WickedSnake00 thanks for informing me about that I will remove them from my setup then.

I found this H-Pipe I will be replacing the custom kit, the flex pipe and the cats with.
BBK Mustang Shorty H-Pipe Catted 1538 (96-04 4.6L w/ Long Tube Headers) - Free Shipping
Keep in mind that H-pipe is for a V8 car. They'd have to hack up the front to fit a 6.

I would get the headers, get the catback, and let an exhaust shop connect the dots. They should be able to knock out a midpipe in very little time, and have the required parts on hand. Just make sure you go to a good shop. There's lots of places that throw together exhaust with scrap pipe and booger welds on the cheap.
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post #17 of 36 Old April 30th, 2015, 04:32 PM Thread Starter
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Again thanks for the replies! And sorry for the late reply I was busy with some things. I have been working on the stang and got a lot to do.

WickedSnake00, should I be worried about using clamps that do not allow much movement and see cracking, leaks, or damage to the exhaust system or engine? Is there a recommended amount of movement that should be allowed? Keep in mind that in the future the car will be far from stock so I want the exhaust system to last and work for my setup. Also what are these Marmon seals and how do they work? Seems quite interesting. Do you recommend me using them throughout my setup? (Apart from the headers to mid-pipe)

Also I know that it is for a v8 but the reviews state that they work great on a v6 with the MAC long tube headers which are the headers I am going to be purchasing. (the headers work on a GT too) Just wondering if the sizing or positions of the hangers will be different. Will I have to get hangers custom made and added in? I know I probably will for the side exhausts. What method do you recommend mounting the side exhausts?

Also the place I will be going is not an exhaust shop but a friends mechanics shop. He has pipe benders and is good at welding plus any other tools we will need. Only thing is I don't know if he has a machine to create the ball and socket joints. (If I order an H-pipe I wont need one tho)
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post #18 of 36 Old April 30th, 2015, 04:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Tntgangsta View Post
WickedSnake00, should I be worried about using clamps that do not allow much movement and see cracking, leaks, or damage to the exhaust system or engine? Is there a recommended amount of movement that should be allowed? Keep in mind that in the future the car will be far from stock so I want the exhaust system to last and work for my setup. Also what are these Marmon seals and how do they work? Seems quite interesting. Do you recommend me using them throughout my setup? (Apart from the headers to mid-pipe)

Also I know that it is for a v8 but the reviews state that they work great on a v6 with the MAC long tube headers which are the headers I am going to be purchasing. (the headers work on a GT too) Just wondering if the sizing or positions of the hangers will be different. Will I have to get hangers custom made and added in? I know I probably will for the side exhausts. What method do you recommend mounting the side exhausts?
You can get away with more rigid clamping, but keep in mind the rest of the system will have to go along with that. If it's rigid, it will have to be very true, and there should be at least one compliant part of the system (flex pipe, ball and socket, full/spherical marmon, or very compliant hangers) to allow for movement, assuming you have standard engine/trans mounts. If they're solid you can get away without them.

At least with the GT, there are no hangers on the midpipe. It is fully supported by the manifolds and catback. The catback has two hangers for each side. There really aren't many good mounting locations for it either. For the sidepipes about the only thing you can do is to cantilever them out from the midpipe, that is to say, no hangers.
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post #19 of 36 Old May 1st, 2015, 12:25 AM
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For mounting side exit, i noticed a spot where you can ghetto rig some wire to support the pipes. Its a lowered section on the floor pan just before the rear wheels. Thier are holes where you could feed some wire in then wrap around the pipe. Myself im probly gunna use the pinch weld, drill a small hole and mount a nut/bolt setup and fab some hangers for my pipes when i get it wraped up this weekend.
But mine is compleat diy working from a cut y pipe, and gunna be rigged all to hell. So take from that what u will

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post #20 of 36 Old May 1st, 2015, 01:43 AM Thread Starter
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Again thanks for the replies!

WickedSnake00 how do I know if my setup is going to be too rigid? Also how would I go about checking if my engine mounts are good?

Boattlebot can I just weld in hangers to he undercarriage and find a way to mound a hanger on them (to help allow a little movement) or would this cause the side exhausts to hang too low? Also with your rigid setup what are you using to help allow some movement?
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