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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I was thinking of getting a motor swap before I do any major performance upgrades. I'm not tech savvy when it comes to vehicles. I know how to change tires, oil, and brakes that's about it. So anything I discuss I would need my friend to do it but he would do it a lot cheaper then a mechanic. Without the mechanical work in mind if possible I'd like some pricing too.

1. The main thing I want is a new engine. I read up on a few posts and see that either the 302 or the 351W (Windsor) are good options. Or the 351C (Cleveland?) being one of the best options but also more expensive. I do want to swap into a 4V, 5.0L or 5.4L engine (I heard 5.0L would be best because of the weight difference generally makes up for the power difference). What are all the components I would need if I bought a crate engine and what's your opinion on the better option? And are there any performance parts like a supercharger (Blower?) that would be compatible with my next engine if I decided to get that first.

2. I started thinking that an exhaust system would probably be the best first option since it's relatively cheaper then upgrading the engine and it's a performance part that I could get that would be stay with me through the engine swap. Also it could potentially make my car sound a lot more like a beast (I heard flowmaster super 44's are one of the best for that?) or a muscle car in that sense. My one co-worker said I should get an exhaust system without a catalytic converter. I also heard that wouldn't let my car pass emissions (However I know a few mechanics, will probably be able to get him to let me go but then again I thought PA's emissions test is a state test, so is it possible for him to let me go?). What are all the main pieces to an entire exhaust system, should i get a catalytic converter with it, and which parts of the system make the most difference with sound?

3. Another cheaper option at the time would be a computer chip upgrade. Either a reprogrammer or a new chip in general. Would I need a new chip if I got a reprogrammer? What are the benefits of getting a new chip over a reprogrammer?

Which option sounds the best at the time? I plan on getting all this work done to it eventually so even though price is an issue now it's something I'm going to be saving up to make this car at least 700HP (Or rwhp?) and sound good. But I want to be able to work on it myself someday when I learn more about it. I want an engine that will be good enough to push it over 1000HP if I feel the need for speed someday. The engine I don't want to go cheap on.
 

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Head Unicorn
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Why would you consider putting a pushrod motor in your car? Is it a daily driver or not? If it is I would advise against that route. I'm going to skip to the last part of your post..... 700 hp is a lofty goal. More than lofty is the price tag. Doing all the work yourself (which you aren't capable of according to you) you'l be lucky to squeak by for $10,000. To reach your 1000 hp goal you'd be in the ballpark of $18,000.... these prices are strictly engines and supporting hardware. I think you may be overshooting reality a little. Why do you want to replace your motor anyway? Is something wrong with it? These Modulars routinely go 200K mile plus without issue.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Nothing is wrong with the motor. Only 80k Miles on it. I rather have a 5.0 or a 5.4 in it. I'll probably sell the old motor. Whats a pushrod motor? And 10k was a little cheaper then I was expecting honestly. Is that considering a used motor and used parts?
 

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BYAHHHH!
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whats a pushrod motor? GOOGLE my brother.
 

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Head Unicorn
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I'm out.... trolled.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Wasn't trolling I have no idea what kind of motors are out there. I read up on the pushrod motor but what other kind of motors are out there that might be a better choice? Or rather what kind of motor does a cobra have as I've read up on those being a good choice.
 

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BYAHHHH!
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Leave your car the way it is and just learn about these cars and cars in general. After a few months your start picking up the small stuff and it will waterfall from there.
 

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The 4.6 is a great platform, where to start? Well are you into road courses or straight line? I would start with subframe connectors either way, then get more specific with the route you choose, things such as shocks,springs, control arms, k member, etc.. then beaf up braking system, then work on making the rear with stand up to 1100hp if you do really want to go to 1000hp, next up upgrade the transmission to handle the power. And lastly add the power and fuel system, you will need to get a shortblock or internals, to withstand your power level

700-1000 hp is very expensive cause you also have to make everything else handle it.

Imo flowturd 44s, sound horrible because of the drone when cruiseing. A lot of people prefer things like slp, magnapacks, which I have and love. A certain pypes. Bassani, basically a lot of the straight threw designs sound good on a 2v imo
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
That's what I'm trying to do for the most part. I don't want a mechanic to do all the work. But it's hard to learn how to work on a car when I don't work on cars in general and have no real way of doing so. I've been looking up What some of the best parts are for the last week. These are only questions for now I can't do any of these upgrades not for at least a couple months. Only one way to learn, google and questions really. I can always look at my engine but I won't know what to do with it just by starring at it. Don't get my wrong I have been googling and reading things from these forums for a couple days now. Since I got my first car, my 2000 Alero, I've been trying to learn more about cars. Now I got my 02' Mustang GT couple months ago and I'm trying to get in greater detail what everything is and what I can do to. This is going to be my car. I don't want it to be someone elses project. But I don't have the tools, equipment, or the knowledge how to put a car together so for now... just theories and questions.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Imo flowturd 44s, sound horrible because of the drone when cruiseing. A lot of people prefer things like slp, magnapacks, which I have and love. A certain pypes. Bassani, basically a lot of the straight threw designs sound good on a 2v imo
I'm still deciding what to get. I'll know what sound I want when i hear it so I'm just using youtube to hear different exhaust systems. Flowmaster was the one I heard of the most though. I did hear the magnapacks.... they sound amazing. Real deep, beast like sound. True muscle car sound. Kind of what I'm looking for.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I know the amount of room the exhaust gives can make a difference in performance. Are all of those exhaust system options pretty much similar besides the sound that make?
 

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Lofty and extremely unrealistic goals. Before you spend a dime on your car you need to define what you intend to do with it. My best suggestion is to start small. Maybe a catback exhaust for the muscle car sound. Maybe a handheld tuner for a 93 octane tune. Then hang out on the forum and read the threads.

If your motor has been maintained 80,000 miles is just broken in.

Edit: I had the original Flowmaster 40s and absolutely hated them. The drone killed my ears, gave me headaches and in general made my life miserable on any trip longer than a half hour. Drone is not really related to tail pipe loudness. It is a resonating sound between 1800-2200 rpms that just beats on your ears. After two years I gave up and had the Flowmasters cut out and had Magnaflows welded in.

Cat-backs really do not increase performance much. Most people select them for their sound. An off-road mid-pipe without cats (illegal on the road in all 50 states) will increase performance by maybe 8-10 rwhp. People get away with running them because not all states have inspections.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Yeah it's in pretty good shape (As far as I can tell). I only had one problem when I bought it and it was a hose that had an inch gap in it. Was only $150 to get it repaired and get the car inspected. That included them needing to smoke the engine to find it. So I'm quite happy with the purchase of the vehicle. I got it at 75k miles for about 8 grand. It did need new tires too which I got later on. It also has a bad window motor in the passengers side door so that window doesn't come down. My dad in law drove it and said it felt like there was a new clutch in it.

The one thing I don't want to do is buy something that won't be compatible with what I want later on, and having to replace it. That's kind of why I wanted a good motor because they are expensive, not something I would want to replace until it dies on me. That's why I want to figure out what the best option for an engine would be, so I can find parts that I can use that I may get now, later on in the new engine. I heard about catback exhaust systems. They don't start directly from the engine? How is the performance compared to a full exhaust system?

As far as how I want to use it. Mostly driving but I do like speed, and I tend to get into races with a lot of people. I would like to take it to the track every once in a while to have fun exploring what the car can really do in a 1/4 or 1/2 drag race. The reason I said 1000HP because... might sound little over dramatic... but there was a car I've seen on youtube, it was a 3000 HP dragster that had a switch to tune it down to 1000HP to drive on the road since 3000 HP is insane for trying to drive it anywhere but the track. I want something like that. Idk nearly enough explain about it but I'm sure some of the people here have heard/seen this before. When I feel like racing I can flip the switch and get the power I need when I'm at the tracks or just in general. When I'm driving it casually bring it down to a more sustainable level so I'm not all over the place. I've heard 1000HP is hard to control with the RWD. I wouldn't want that 100% of the time. Hopefully this gives you a feel for what I'm looking for?
 

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Our exhaust comes in three parts: exhaust manifold or headers, mid-pipe, and cat-back. The exhaust manifold attaches to the motor. The mid-pipe contains the four O2 sensors and the catalytic converters. The cat-back has the mufflers and goes over the rear axle. What ever you do, don't let anyone weld in a single exhaust on your car. You will have to cut in in pieces just to get the transmission out.

Motor are built for specific purposes. Naturally aspirated and nitrous motor usually have high compression pistons. Boosted motors usually have low compression pistons. It would be best if you started someplace else other than the motor.
 

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The best way to learn is to learn the different parts of the car, like the name, then research there purpose, eventually you'll be able to know how one thing will effect the other, 2 years ago I knew nothing about my mustang, I only knew about atvs, racecars and Such. Now I know atleast with the suspension, what does what and how it effects other parts, I'm decent with the engine, now I'm learning about forced induction. Shot now, as long as its a 99-04 mustang I can almost everytime look at the mustang and tell you a approx year, and model, unless they have done alot to the looks
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Our exhaust comes in three parts: exhaust manifold or headers, mid-pipe, and cat-back. The exhaust manifold attaches to the motor. The mid-pipe contains the four O2 sensors and the catalytic converters. The cat-back has the mufflers and goes over the rear axle. What ever you do, don't let anyone weld in a single exhaust on your car. You will have to cut in in pieces just to get the transmission out.

Motor are built for specific purposes. Naturally aspirated and nitrous motor usually have high compression pistons. Boosted motors usually have low compression pistons. It would be best if you started someplace else other than the motor.
How should the exhaust system be put together then? And the one that makes the most sound difference would be the cat-back right? I wanted to go with a supercharger. Nitrous with a supercharger would work just fine or that something that would harm the engine?
 

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On your stock engine, you will have to stay below 450, or it could blow, so your better off to run one or the other till you have a built motor imo. Catback will be most noticeable, I'm not familiar with your alls laws but do you all just have a visual inspespection or the sniff test for emissions?
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I'm not sure how they do the inspection. I think it's hooked up to a machine so it's not possible to fake. I'm not sure what my friend was talking about though. Does the catalyst converter make a big difference in anything? If it doesn't then I don't see why he told me to try and get a system without it. I have an idea what it does, burns excess amounts of fuel and other things to lessen bad emissions. That's why without it I wouldn't be able to pass inspection
 
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