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C6Z's & ZL1's are afraid
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here's a couple before i changed the orientation of it. i didn't get a pic of it the other way, but its basically touching the fender.

the length before the maf is 7-8 inches and after is even more.


 

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Discussion Starter #362
That flange looks to be sitting very high over the pipe. How smooth is the union, weld and pipe on the interior where the maf protrudes through? I would also inspect the penetration of the maf through that flange. Maybe the air does not have a clear path.

Hard to tell in this pic but my hpx is flush with the 3" piping.




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C6Z's & ZL1's are afraid
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looking inside it, the maf appears to sit fine. i didn't see any of the openings on the maf covered up by the flange/piping.

---------- Post added at 07:20 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:59 PM ----------

what pipe is that again? i've seen it b4.
 

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Discussion Starter #364

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C6Z's & ZL1's are afraid
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im thinking it may be the BOV. i've been reading a bit on them and if its too small it could be not doing its job efficiently and causing some sort of wash or somrthing.

Budget Intercooler Kit - Justin's Performance Center

that's the kit i have and i am still using the Greddy knockoff BOV included in the kit. could that be it?
 

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Discussion Starter #366
im thinking it may be the BOV. i've been reading a bit on them and if its too small it could be not doing its job efficiently and causing some sort of wash or somrthing.

Budget Intercooler Kit - Justin's Performance Center

that's the kit i have and i am still using the Greddy knockoff BOV included in the kit. could that be it?

It is hard to say. I have helped others who have had trouble with that BOV but their problems are more specific to flutter. Can you take a video of the bov while it is idling?

Did joe recommend the maf screen and is he aware that you added it? Make sure he is ok with it and knows about all changes between tunes since it affects the system and can throw his adjustments off.
I


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Discussion Starter #369

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C6Z's & ZL1's are afraid
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i've got a clamp on the hose/iac connection but not on the end that connects to the intake as you can see from the pic. its really on there lol won't budge but i'll put a clamp on there anyway.

aside from that; what do you make of the log? i think the maf counts at idle are rather solid but then it gets jumpy again throughout the rpm's. i'm so confused, but i am also worried that Joe won't be able to tune the car this way.
 

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Discussion Starter #371
I did look at all the logs you posted and nothing came glaring out at me. the MAF counts appear to swing a few counts at steady state which looks to be normal and moves up with the rpm's. Joe would be better to field those questions. It may not be a problem, more of an observation.
 

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Just an update, so I worked on the pos all day, I couldn't get the 1 inch of line to not kink so I just ended up getting some brass 90's and did it this way.

It seemed to have worked because shifting hard is perfect now, However.. drove it up the street and slowly accelerating it started outta random to fall flat on its face at like 1700rpm. I'm like wtf, so driving it around it still bucks around like 2k almost like its misfiring. So I parked it in the garage and the car just ran like complete poop. At idle it kept surging and almost dying.... Needless to say it was misfiring.. quite a lot. Pulled this up on my scanner.. woooo

I ****ing hate my car... its never just one simple thing
 

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Discussion Starter #374
Something is up with your o2 sensors. Double check the connections and wires to make sure nothing is shorted. Any strange electrical issues that may indicate an alternator or batter problem?

When you datalog now are you still getting dips in the fuel rail pressure? It could be that it has been running so rough it fouled up the o2 sensors. if you are still getting inconsistent pressure drop across the injectors I would investigate a potential FRPS issue.

CliffyK has nice DTC trouble code info on his website

http://www.paladinmicro.com/pmicro.php#
 

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Boost Bro
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Something is up with your o2 sensors. Double check the connections and wires to make sure nothing is shorted. Any strange electrical issues that may indicate an alternator or batter problem?

When you datalog now are you still getting dips in the fuel rail pressure? It could be that it has been running so rough it fouled up the o2 sensors. if you are still getting inconsistent pressure drop across the injectors I would investigate a potential FRPS issue.

CliffyK has nice DTC trouble code info on his website

PaladinMicro
The reason for those o2 sensor codes is that I dont have rear o2 sensors atm because I'm using the rear bung for my wideband. I just ordered the new rear o2's and Ill put them in later in the week with MIL elimators so that should take care of the issue. I pulled all the coils today and 6 of them have cracked tops.. lol and one of the 2 that don't look like they have cracks is the #5 coil that was threw that p0355 code. So I just bit the bullet and figured since they almost have 100k on them I'll just replace all of them and got a new set of accels. Even if they last for 30k theyre still only around 175 for all of em. Can't beat it. Better then old cracked **** lol. I can't datalog it but just from driving last night I bet the fuel pressure is stable now, that fix I did definitely did the trick. And this misfiring and bucking has to be these old coils finally giving out, that and its been raining non stop here for the past week too.
Here's a example of the few

 

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C6Z's & ZL1's are afraid
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I have the accels lol been using them for a good 2 years or so now and well over 40k miles on them I'm sure. Not a single issue with them for me :)

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Sorry to bother you sonic but I have no more ideas... I replaced all the coils and the car still runs like ****. It runs better but still like ****. It doesn't buck as bad and violent as it did before, a little bit in the lower rpms like 1500 or so and less and really bad on decel. And I was at a redlight, idling just fine then all a sudden the idle starts surging for no reason again. Just almost dying, then giving itself gas to keep it from dying, then again right after.. I looked like an idiot.. Any ideas of what else could be going on? I redid everything yesterday, changed the plugs(old ones looked fine), cleaned the maf, cleaned the IAC which was clean anyways, rerouted the bov to the way you have it, and the same with the boost gauge, and then today I put the brand new coils on it.. And now my hesitation at hard shifts is back.... wtf.... I can't figure this car out..

Oh yea, and my codes were the same except now minus the #5 coil misfire. That and a p1125 code because I unpluged the tps, so I recleared it and got my o2 codes back and a U3326 code. I can't find any info on that code
 

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Discussion Starter #379
Pluf the secondary o2's back in and reset the ecu by disconnecting the battery. Then wait for it to happen again and datalog it. Send the log file to me.


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