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Boost Bro
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so... I dont understand this. but I cleared the codes last night n today it runs perfect... lol only issue now it is seems to go into a close loop mode and starts dumping fuel (12.0) on the wideband for no reason every here and there

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Discussion Starter #383
I looked but am no expert. During idle it should jump all over the map (couple clicks up or down from 14.7 is normal). This requires someone smarter than I to diagnose this.
 

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Boost Bro
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I looked but am no expert. During idle it should jump all over the map (couple clicks up or down from 14.7 is normal). This requires someone smarter than I to diagnose this.
yeah I don't know lol, I emailed my tuner all the datalogs hopefully he gets back to me soon :/ I did notice some crazy pressure drop spikes though, maybe my FPRS is at fault like you were saying?
 

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C6Z's & ZL1's are afraid
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How do you like your remote tune from joe? I'm heavily considering just having him remote tune my car since every tuning shop around me wants 650 for a dyno tune, plus another 100 for the tow...
Joe wants like 750 to dyno tune lol i was tempted to do that but don't have time to drive 2hrs to him so I'm remote tuning.

I like his remote tunes, although he typically gets you new tunes on the weekend only, he's really good. I'm bout ready to do some WOT tuning with him hopefully this weekend. Can't wait.


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Discussion Starter #387
Joe is good at what he does but he is one man and can be slow so you have to be patient. I am very pleased with my results and those that i have recommended also seem to be pleased. No complaints other than waiting for updates.


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Joe is good at what he does but he is one man and can be slow so you have to be patient. I am very pleased with my results and those that i have recommended also seem to be pleased. No complaints other than waiting for updates.


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+1 Glad happy i took the rocommendation I highly reccomend Trick Tuners. If your car is in good shape id say 2-3 weeks is how long it would of taken me if i did not have car problems. and I would not pay more then 450-500 for a dyno tune,
 

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Discussion Starter #389
Just wanted to send a thank you to everyone who has enjoyed this thread. I just sorted all project posts by the # of views and this thread is #6 overall with over 40,000 views.

A new adventure may be underway with a potential relocation from PA to CA. Emissions will be the largest challenge but since the vehicle was purchased out of state while living out of state I may get away with 49 state requirements vs 50 state.
 

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Just wanted to send a thank you to everyone who has enjoyed this thread. I just sorted all project posts by the # of views and this thread is #6 overall with over 40,000 views.

A new adventure may be underway with a potential relocation from PA to CA. Emissions will be the largest challenge but since the vehicle was purchased out of state while living out of state I may get away with 49 state requirements vs 50 state.
thank you for takeing the time to do such an in depth write up, this thread has helped out many mustang guys i fell like this thread should be stickyd:foshizzle:
 

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C6Z's & ZL1's are afraid
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Used a jigsaw to cut through the foam bumper cover. That thing was suprisingly tough to cut...and MESSY.

Cut down the length on both sides then used a sawsall to finish the job. The jigsaw ensured a clean straight cut.





This picture shows the rerouted cooling line. It sits just above the FMIC now and will get plenty of airfloor from the upper opening in the bumper.



I put weather stripping on the bumper support that I cut so it wouldn't rub and wear through my coupler that was butt up against it.



View of the Drivers side supports with the strip of aluminum. 4 Screws into the bumper and two bolts in the treadstone bracket.



And a view of the passenger side.



To maintain the 1" space I worked so hard to create while the IC is against highways speed winds I installed these door stop bumpers on the frame. They push against the bottom of the IC end tank. Worked out quite nicely and only ended up needing one.



I ultimately chose the route the passenger side pipes this way as it maximized the space for the air filter as well as provided just enough room to allow the fog lamps to clear. The vertical pipe shown is the other half of the 45 degree from the engine bay picture earlier in the thread. Going this route also provided proper alignment with the couplers without the need to stretch/force them to align.

im swapping to the Treadstone lol just ordered it and shipping today.

cx racing IC is garbage! im on 10psi w/ the 3.12" pulley, hopefully ill gain back 2-3psi with the treadstone.

glad i looked at your build thread again too, noticed the treadstone inlet/outlets are top/bottom unlike the cx racing that's both bottom. grabbed another 90* elbow from siliconeintakes.

---------- Post added at 03:27 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:25 PM ----------

Just wanted to send a thank you to everyone who has enjoyed this thread. I just sorted all project posts by the # of views and this thread is #6 overall with over 40,000 views.

A new adventure may be underway with a potential relocation from PA to CA. Emissions will be the largest challenge but since the vehicle was purchased out of state while living out of state I may get away with 49 state requirements vs 50 state.
oooooooo ****!!!! CALIFORNIA!! what part?

for emissions, there are ppl who can "pass" you, i know its a bit sketch but from what i hear, there isn't any issues.

but like you said; try to keep the car as an "out of state" car as long as possible.
 

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Discussion Starter #393
im swapping to the Treadstone lol just ordered it and shipping today.



cx racing IC is garbage! im on 10psi w/ the 3.12" pulley, hopefully ill gain back 2-3psi with the treadstone.



glad i looked at your build thread again too, noticed the treadstone inlet/outlets are top/bottom unlike the cx racing that's both bottom. grabbed another 90* elbow from siliconeintakes.

---------- Post added at 03:27 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:25 PM ----------





oooooooo ****!!!! CALIFORNIA!! what part?



for emissions, there are ppl who can "pass" you, i know its a bit sketch but from what i hear, there isn't any issues.



but like you said; try to keep the car as an "out of state" car as long as possible.
I am very interested in your test results. Make sure and save a bunch of logs noting ambient temp before and after so a side by side can be done. This will be a definitive test for all the theory out there. You should start a thread for "Battle of the intercoolers, CX vs Treadstone"


I believe that pipe connected to the 90* coupler is half of a U pipe that I cut in half to provide a longer sweep. It is not quite 90* though i am certain an actual 90 will work.

The potential relocation is to the Riverside area in southern California.

From what others have said CA is cracking down with undercover sting operations on private shops that are "easy going" smacking them with hefty fines. I have my fingers crossed that it will not be too painful. That area is only a couple hours from TrickTuners so if and when I score the relocation I will hit him up for some feedback and recommendations ;)


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Just wanted to say thank you so much for such a detailed guide! This is probably the third time I've read this thread, but I recently made an account and thanks were in order! I will be referencing this guide repeatedly! Thanks again!
 

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Discussion Starter #395

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Really enjoyed this thread and learned a lot. if only you had been doing a turbo setup :D
 

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Now comes the fun part. Once the tank is out, hat removed and the basket extracted from the tank (two plastic clips). cover all the openings in the tank and take the basket to a clean work surface(dump the fuel out of it).

I have 86k miles on my beast and the filters were filthy. The bottom of the basket had a nice film of dirt. Clean it up nicely. 5mm hex screws hold the top down. You will need to remove the float mechanism and electronics to take the basket away from the hat.

I chose the DivisionX stryker pump. Not a ton of people out there running this new pump so I couldn't find that many posts to help. Regardless of which pump there are thousands of posts on how to run the fuel line, PPRV deletes, etc etc...made my head spin.

First a pic of the two pumps side by side. The DivisionX is taller and will require the lid to the basket to be trimmed.



Here is the lid before it was modified. .



Using a dremel and a cut off wheel slowly cut the sleeve down to the bottom of the notch like this



Take your time. The plastic used on the basket is brittle as hell.

So now the lid fits nice and flush like it did before....except now a new problem surfaced. The two port fitting that attaches to the basket filler line and the pump doesn't fit right. The new pump is taller and it's connection sits higher than the old pump. That and the socket for the electrical connections are in the way for it to fit flush.



So the fitting does NOT sit right. Even if there was no interference to the piece sliding all the way on, the pump would insert WAY to far into the fitting and basically bottom out inside thus impeding the flow significantly.

Another view of how it doesn't sit right.



Part of me thought, if I am going to remove the PPRV then I don't need to worry about the tank filler connection, except that it was so poor the pump would still be flowing fluid out of that port and past the screw that many people put in. Since chopping the height of the pump outlet would not help due to the interference, the only thing left is to ditch that part completely.

I plan to take the existing line from the hat that used to connect to the PPRV and connect it directly to the pump and double clamp it.



Problem is now I need to make sure fuel makes it into the basket or I am not going anywhere. Drilled 1 5/16" hole in the bottom and two on the side of the basket that is towards the front of the car. There was already a hole in the bottom with a basic check valve consisting of a flap of plastic covering a hole. The weight of the fuel would hold it down most of the time. But once you put suction on the other side (the fuel filter sits right above it) it would suck the plastic up and allow fuel to flow into the basket.







Before jamming the divisionX pump outlet into the existing tubing you may noticed it has a metal cap on the end. This cap holds a plastic sleeve in place that has a rod connected to a cone fitting and a spring. Basically a built in check valve. Under load the pump pushes fuel past the fitting by pressing against the spring. When the system is off the spring pushes the fitting down and seals the pump. In the interest of flow I ditched this piece as well.





I thought about picking up some new gates fuel line, but the line that is already in the tank is the correct length and resists kinking. Alot of the photos I have seen of people buying the gates line have issues with it kinking.

Any thoughts from the gurus on what I have done and if I should change anything?

Tank is still in pieces, ran out of time and daylight.

Will be finishing it tomorrow.

Contacted Joe about the PMAS HPX slot maf. He sold out and will be ordering more. hopefully he can get them...........

Once that and the injectors arrive this project will be ready for a tune and runtime.


I was wondering how mounting the hose directly to the pump has been holding up? I am doing my swap now, but the owner before me has replaced the fuel pump with an autozone one that also came with a different basket and my lid will not line up with the top of the pump. I plan on doing a pprv but was worried the pressure might blow the hose off of the pump
 

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Discussion Starter #399
I have had no issues with splitting lines or hoses popping off since using the submersible line(which was discussed later in my thread), and it has been a couple years now. Others have not been as fortunate and I am not sure why. I have helped people on this forum who have had issues with line splitting, clamps not holding, and kinking.

Some have tried a very short 1" piece of line from pump to hat to address kinking with success. Others have used brass or stainless elbows to assist with bends. Double clamping is generally a good idea on the pump since there is no bead to hold it on.

When I tried to keep and reuse the factory line(pictured above) it was getting massive blowby and I was losing fpdc (at least 10%). It likely would have eventually blown off.


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Discussion Starter #400
Round one of smog was a bust. Just installed a new magnaflow CARB legal exhaust and put the factory plenum back on. Not much in the way of free time with the new job. I now live down in the Temecula, CA area. Hopefully a second visit to smog here shortly.
 
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