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Discussion Starter #1
I can't find a forum anywhere that has a straight answer on what's truly needed. Everytime I read a forum, I learn something new that needs to be done. So let me just explain a run down of everything I'm wanting to do, and please, help me!

I'm replacing my Shaker 500 system with a Pioneer AVH-P4300DVD 7" In-Dash Double-DIN DVD AV Receiver. Eventually, I'm adding 2 12" subs to the back with a mono D amp. What I want to happen is I want to install that Pioneer unit and have all of my speakers work with it (including the crappy Shaker subs), and still have the ability to add the other 2 subs later. So, here's where I get lost.

Wiring Harness: I've heard you need to get the Clutchfield PAC wiring harness, such as the PAC C2R-FRD1. But then I've heard people say you can just use one like the Scosche FDK11B. What's the difference between these two, outside of the price? What's the thing included with the PAC? And last, is there anything else I need if I buy just the Scosche or the PAC, as in ANYTHING else or do these wiring things do the trick?

Shaker Door Sub Replacement: I also plan on replacing my door subs with a Kicker Mid system. When looking into this, I heard that you need to replace some kind offactory stereo amp to get much more power out of the subs. What type of amp do I need to replace this with? And can I get an example?

I guess overall, is there a bullet list of everything that I need to do and what I need? My Cobalt was so much easier to replace this junk
 

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Harness -- You can use either of those harnesses to get your headunit up and running. However, if you use the PAC C2R-FRD1, which is what I used, then you don't need to worry about running some kind of in-line resistor or whatnot so that your subs don't pop when you turn your headunit on. I understand the PAC is much more expensive than the Scosche unit, but I spent the extra money to ensure my install was easy, straightforward, and would work correctly the first time (which it did).

Subs -- You don't HAVE to replace the stock Shaker amps if you upgrade the 8" woofers in the doors. However, I've heard a couple things regarding this:

1. The Kicker subs aren't as boomy as the Shaker subs. They supposedly have more of a "tight" sub sound.
2. You 'should' upgrade the amps to an aftermarket unit if you truly want the best sound out of your newly upgraded subs. Any type of amp will do, but I suggest a 4/5-channel so you can also power your front and rear speakers as well with it.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the reply. As for the amp replacement for the Shaker system, where is that exactly? I've tried to google that with no luck. I'd rather just replace that for now and get different 8" subs later.

I'm more of a rock guy which was why I wanted some Mids up front, and the subs are gonna be set to just thumping instead of rattling my trunk.
 

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ive been working on my system as well. i have my factory shaker unit as well as my factory door subs and speakers but im upgrading the door subs to jl audio zr800 midwoofers and the speakers to jl as well. i have a jl 12w3v3 in the trunk and but i want the interior to look stock so heres what im getting to replace the factory amp with that is small enough to fit in the factory amp location and is powerful enough to power all the speakers and door subs

 
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