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Discussion Starter #1
Well after 6 months of my car parked in the driveway with a spun rod bearing I finally have the cash together to get it fixed and then some. gonna call my local speedshop(PSI Motorsports in webster,tx) in the morning to get a quote but cant decide on what to ask for I would like 450+hp. The car has 78k miles on the ticker and I would like to fix it right and not have any worrys for a while im thinking a supercharger and forged bottom end might be out of my price range. so what im thinking is stroke it forge interals heads/cams and run 150 shot plus new clutch/flywheel and if I have money left over suspension mods.

My Current mods are
Bassani X Pipe
Bassani mid length Headers
Flowmaster mufflers
C&L Plenum
C&L CAI
FRPP 70mm TB
Tokico Lowering springs
3.73 gears
 

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i would try not to spend that much money on the car, cause as soon as you starting getting up to that horsepower alot more stuff starts breaking. Since i did the stroker, heads, and cam with nitrous thing i will say its a blast down the track. Enough to hurt your neck but to make that last your tranny will have to hold up, plus rearend, and your suspension will need to be dialed in to keep it straight with the tq it makes.
 

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just curious, but why do you think it has a spun rod bearing - have you torn the motor down?
 

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Definatly plan on getting a built tranny. The t-45 will let go on a bolt on and 150shot gt much less a built and spraying gt. But a good built t-45 will hold up to alot. High compression, P&P'd heads cams and some spray. Don't expect much more than 350rwhp N/A but 500rwhp on spray with some suspension mods and big and littles will get you some good times.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
well would probably mainly just drive it on the street I rarely went to the track before it broke probably rarely if ever use the nitrous just want it setup for nitrous and if I had extra money I was planning on beefing the rearend
 

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i wouldn't recommend nitrous on the street, mine on the street with a 100 shot and 325 mickeys still spun and went sideways. That big of a tq hit on the street is hard to control
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I do alot of roll racing starting from 40-50mph do you really think it would be that hard to control my best friend has a 03 cobra w/ the new 3.4 whipple at 23psi kooks headers midpipe his car dynoed at 687rwp and its very streetable for roll racing as long as he doesnt race from a dig then yeah its totally out of control. But yea I have a set of mickey Ets and a pair of nitto drag radials so I will be running either of those when im messing around.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
$6500 sound good for parts/labor?
for custom grind stage 2 cams
ported heads/ w/ stainless valves /comp beehive springs
forged bottom end / w/ Gt Crankshaft extra 650 for cobra

basically a built longblock installed for $6500 plus tax
 

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just curious, but why do you think it has a spun rod bearing - have you torn the motor down?
since it spun you crank is prob craped, and its just when the rod bearing spins inside the rod, and it could be because of it getting to hot, or it could have been real dirty, bunch of diffrent reasons, what part of greenville u from.. im from spartanburg
 

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Discussion Starter #10
they are replacing everything in the motor and it spun because yes it got hot it had less than a quart of oil unsure if it was burning oil or??? but after it happened we put it on the lift drained oil and roughly a quart came out along with some metal shavings....
 

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they are replacing everything in the motor and it spun because yes it got hot it had less than a quart of oil unsure if it was burning oil or??? but after it happened we put it on the lift drained oil and roughly a quart came out along with some metal shavings....
yea that will do it.. most of the time a bearing spins because of heat and friction
 

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they are replacing everything in the motor and it spun because yes it got hot it had less than a quart of oil unsure if it was burning oil or??? but after it happened we put it on the lift drained oil and roughly a quart came out along with some metal shavings....
Dam, how long before had you changed the oil? to lose 4 or 5 quarts is a ton - may have had a blown head gasket - I would think if you were burning that much oil you would have noticeable smoke coming out of the tailpipes.

P.S. mp, Im in Simpsonville.
 

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yea im actually from boiling springs but the ****in army stuck me in kansas till september.. mabey when i move home ill get all the MM member togather to go cruisin or somethin
 

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yea im actually from boiling springs but the ****in army stuck me in kansas till september.. mabey when i move home ill get all the MM member togather to go cruisin or somethin

september huh? just in time for football season! :cool:
 

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Discussion Starter #15
it was less than 2 weeks before it happened I had the oil changed by kwik kar my guess they didnt put but a quart or two back but no way to prove it still a screw up on my part because I should of checked my oil more regularly. it wont happen again :D and ill do it myself from now on but at the time I was in an apartment.
 

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I would do the head and cam with the built bottom end. Then put a nitrous kit on. Get a clutch and built rear as soon as possible.
 

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i'd screw power adders at the moment until you beef up the suspension (no use adding more hp if you can't get it on the road).

1) Short throw shifter (don't see that in your mod list, but you won't regret it)
2) Random suspension pieces
- Control arms (rear are the most important [lower and upper] but front won't hurt either)
- Subframe connectors
- Caster/camber plates
- Strut tower brace
- Aluminum driveshaft (i know, that's not suspension but i just thought i'd throw that in there too)

once all that's done, THEN i'd look into

3) camshaft
4) PI heads (or at least porting the one you got)

then if you want delve into the realm of FI (50-100 hit of dry nitrous should do the trick)
 

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Discussion Starter #18
thought about doing full suspension and porting heads / adding stage 2 cams but after thinking long about it im thinking strongly about repairing and selling it and trying to get me a (dont shoot) pontiac GTO 05/06 LS2 not 04 got a few that run around town one makes 540rwp N/A and its a bad boy and I did some shopping around looks like I might be able to scoop up a low mile one for right at 20k. or of course a 03/04 cobra dont know decisions decisions.. just not sure I will be happy with a 320-340rwp car...
 

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well for less than 20 grand u could find a termie and just swap that pully on that blower and you will be faster than most goats.
 

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well for less than 20 grand u could find a termie and just swap that pully on that blower and you will be faster than most goats.


That is one POS Terminator if you bought it for >20k not to mention 80k or more miles it will have. Your gonna spend 23-26k for a good and none abused 03-04 cobra.
 
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