Modded Mustang Forums banner

1 - 6 of 6 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
First off let me start by saying that I installed a 91 mustang 2.3 into my 74 pinto mainly for the fuel injection and the electronic ignition system. The pinto had a 2.3 with a Holley/Weber 2 barrel carb that was never "right" and a points type distributor for the ignition. It ran but I was never happy with it. The car is amazing now, It can sit for months and still start right off the key in the dead of winter without any extended cranking or anything. I absolutely love it. However, there are some issues that need to be resolved. There are some codes present in the computer which results in the check engine light being illuminated (Yes I wired that up even). I will have to go read the codes again as it has been a while but I do remember that one code was "Insufficient EGR flow". I changed the EGR position sensor and the code went away temporarily, but came back again. I connected the vacuum lines to the EGR solenoid and the EGR valve, but I am unsure which line on the solenoid goes to the manifold vacuum port and which line goes to the EGR. I may have it connected backwards, or it may not matter. So, that could be a problem, or it may not be. What I can say tho, is that the EGR tube is connected and clear (Or was, I am in the process of upgrading to a ranger header, so I am having to find and modify an EGR tube to fit at the moment) so I think the problem is either electrical, or the EGR valve itself just isn't working. Another code that I am aware of is the power steering pressure switch. I used the pinto power steering hose, which doesn't have a sensor in it anywhere. Am I going to have to have a custom hose made that has the port for a pressure switch in it in order to eliminate that code? What is the purpose of that pressure switch??

Then there is the problem of the engine bucking and jerking if you floor the throttle either from a stand still or from low speeds. Its perfectly driveable as is, but its still annoying.

I bought a fuel pressure gauge that has a 1/8" npt port on it, but the fuel rail has some kind of fitting that is smaller than that on it, so I haven't been able to install that yet. Anyone know what kind of adapter I need?

Finally, I want to add cruise control. Where can I get parts at for that? Will the cruise control transducer I removed from a 94+ mustang at the picknpull work? I do have a VSS connected, and there is a place on the throttle cable bracket for the cruise control cable to mount as well.. if the later model cruise control unit will read the output from the older VSS, then I would assume the cruise control unit will work. Any thoughts?

Thanks in advance guys!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,275 Posts
Well, the EGR needs to be connected to a working position sensor (one possible code )and a vacuum control solenoid which controls its actuation. That needs to be connected to a steady vacuum signal at one end and the EGR valve at the other. The solenoid is controlled by the ECU.

The EGR valve can be tested with a vacuum tester and a volt/ohm meter to verify if the position sensor is working. SOme under hood pictures may help in this case.

BTW the Ranger header is not an upgrade in terms of HP, so you might want to invest in a full length header or just use the stock manifold.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
I do have the EGR vacuum control solenoid installed and it does have the egr position sensor installed as well. If i remember right the code I had was in reference to insufficient EGR flow. Not really sure why that code would be set unless vacuum wasn't reaching the EGR valve. I have a rubber hose connecting the vacuum control solenoid to the manifold vacuum source (same place the fuel pressure regulator is getting its vacuum from). From the vacuum control solenoid to the EGR valve is also a rubber hose. Is it possible maybe the rubber hose is being sucked closed under high vacuum preventing the egr valve from working?

Also, I sure wish I knew about the ranger header not being an upgrade before I changed it out the other day. I had that done long before I posted on here. But since I have the work done, i'm going to leave it as-is. I got a ranger EGR tube yesterday and installed it today. Part of the reason I changed to the header anyways was because when I installed this engine, I didnt have the flange for the exhaust pipe to bolt the exhaust pipe onto the manifold - and the muffler shop didnt have any. They rigged something up, but it didnt work for very long before it started leaking. So, I bought this header off a ranger in the pick-n-pull. The cab was off the truck so it was a quick and easy grab and it had a downpipe and flanges and everything. All i will have to do is have the existing exhaust welded up to the downpipe coming off the header and that will solve that problem. It wont matter much about the header causing any power loss anyways (if thats what it will do, as you mentioned it wasnt a HP upgrade) because soon I am planning to put a turbo on this engine and ill use an ebay turbo header for that.... The ranger header will just get me by until I do the turbo conversion.... which might be a little while while I gather parts... plus ill have to have money available to have the cylinders bored and forged pistons installed...and I have to get bigger injectors and such.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,275 Posts
Is it possible maybe the rubber hose is being sucked closed under high vacuum preventing the EGR valve from working?

I really doubt it, I would be more inclined to think that the position sensor or EGR diaphragm are at fault.You can use a good engine vacuum source to test the EGR if a vacuum pump is readily available.


I sure wish I knew about the ranger header not being an upgrade before I changed it out the other day.

OK, I see. If you're going the turbo route, I would suggest the Gnari exhaust manifold or if you can find one, an E-6 Ford one. I imagine that the turbo swap is a project for another day.
Gnari Performance Cast Iron Turbo Manifold for Ford TURBOCHARGED 2 3L | eBay
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Is it possible maybe the rubber hose is being sucked closed under high vacuum preventing the EGR valve from working?

I really doubt it, I would be more inclined to think that the position sensor or EGR diaphragm are at fault.You can use a good engine vacuum source to test the EGR if a vacuum pump is readily available.


I sure wish I knew about the ranger header not being an upgrade before I changed it out the other day.

OK, I see. If you're going the turbo route, I would suggest the Gnari exhaust manifold or if you can find one, an E-6 Ford one. I imagine that the turbo swap is a project for another day.
Gnari Performance Cast Iron Turbo Manifold for Ford TURBOCHARGED 2 3L | eBay
Yes going for the turbo route, but seeing as it needs forged pistons and such, it will be in the future. I need to collect parts and save money for machine work....

I used to have an E6 manifold, but i sold it thinking id get a header. I'll keep an eye out for another E6. I already have an IHI turbo.
 
1 - 6 of 6 Posts
Top