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i have a 2.3 turbo engine on my engine stand ready to be rebuilt. i know i can use a ranger to get some parts so what parts can i get off of a ranger (or other cars) to be used on the engine? where or what website can i find other parts for my engine? also can you give me some tips and hints as i rebuild this engine. thanks
 

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I Eat Baby Stangs
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are you building for performance, daily driver, to OE specs... What are you looking for out of the car? As far as I know, all the internals are the same.
 

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i want it for performance and daily driver.
i have a 2.3 turbo engine on my engine stand ready to be rebuilt. i know i can use a ranger to get some parts so what parts can i get off of a ranger (or other cars) to be used on the engine? where or what website can i find other parts for my engine? also can you give me some tips and hints as i rebuild this engine. thanks



Well, since you have the engine out of the car, there are quite a few things you can do to wring a bit more HP from it. If you are going to keep this a N/A motor, You can start with the head. I have over the years, done many street porting jobs on 2.3 heads. There is a lot of information about this topic on TurboFord.org or you may want to contact some of the more prominent head porting shops around. BoPort has a good reputation. If your budget is tight you might want to do some or all of the work yourself. A multi angle valve job from a competent shop will be important in your build.

Keeping with the N/A engine, I would look at raising compression about one half to three quarters of a point, bringing the final compression to 9.5-10.0:1. You can do this using a different piston and/or by milling material from the bottom of the head. If the block needs re-boring, you might want to invest in some forged pistons. I have broken a cast piston skirt or 2 on 2.3's I've owned. I have used Keith Black pistons on a recent 2.3 build and I'm pleased with them, good price/quality.

Many people who have earlier 2.3's opt for this low cost option, a wrecking yard Ranger roller cam+followers used in 89 and later "dual plug" motors, makes for a good street cam, although I prefer a little stronger grind of cam. While you are at the wrecking yard, look for a later model Ranger header.

I have used the Crane 194621 cam, with great success on street built 2.3's. I have seen them sell for under $140.00 and I have Dyno tested a couple of them them with mostly stock motors, seeing HP gains of 20-25 HP with tuning, while still being fuel/ emissions friendly. New cam followers will be needed for this cam, but they cost less than $60.00 a set. An adjustable cam sprocket is a good addition to this as well. NeedHP.com sells these for less than $100.00

There is a company on E-bay selling Cometic (layered steel) head gaskets (like German cars use) that are very tough. I have yet to see one blow!

Engine balancing couldn't hurt either, make sure to include the flywheel or flex-plate. A larger pipe, coming off your header 2.25-2.5" will be a key component in making more power, along with a good exhaust system.

Stock rods for a street motor of this type should be fine. polishing the rod beams and adding some ARP rod bolts, might be over kill, but if you have the budget, I would do it.

A decent cold air intake filter, placed up front, far away from engines heat is another good idea.

Spark timing, 5-8 degrees more initial timing, listening carefully for detonation.

And tuning of the ECU by someone who knows how.
 

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2.3T motors do not use the same internals as the n/a motors. The pistons in the turbo cars are dished forged pistons. As far as I can remember most of the other parts are universal like the crank, auxilary shaft, etc etc. For the turbo motors the key is opening everything possible up. IE bigger throttle body, porting and polishing the head with a 3 angle valve job, knife edging/porting lower and upper intake. porting out the exhaust manifold less you go with an aftermarket of course, bigger exhaust, google stinger 2.3L for some performance parts for the 2.3T's he has many exhaust components, and of course bigger turbo. There is a cap with the turbo computers though, you rarely hear of anyone making to much more than 300rwhp on the la3 ecu which supposedly has the better setup. I was making 236rwhp with 310pds-torque on my turbo motor running at 20psi of boost and fuel pressure at I believe 45psi vac line off, didn't have a wideband so couldn't tell if it was rich or lean. Wideband will help in prolonging the life of the turbo motor. Other things are arp head bolts and headgasket choice. I myself use the felpro 1035 on my turbo motor with arp head bolts torqued to 120pds of torque. I collapsed a piston before the headgasket blew so.
 

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Wow my bad! stangfreak88 "did" mention he was building a "TURBO" motor :eek: Flipping between N/A and turbo forums can get a bit confusing. I'm currently building an 89' N/A Mustang for street use and I have that on the brain. My other car is an XR4ti, with all the trimmings.

akatagyourit I concur. Yeah one of us was paying attention.
 

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I "went the na route once before the power gain vs cost just wasn't there for me."

Yeah, I know just what you mean. You can lose driveability really fast with most N/A mods too. My other car is an Xr4ti 2.7L with an Esslinger head, etc, etc, it's one of those money pits, which kind of ties into this thread, I think you have to ask yourself.....when is enough, enough?

You know, it's kind of funny, I think I had more fun with my car, when it was a little less modified.

I think between the both of us, we answered most of stangfreak's questions, but while we are on that topic, if you had a limited amount of cash, what would you set as the highest priority, for expenditures.

I'll throw this out there and you might agree. Most of us who have owned turbo Fords, have beat the living sh** out of them, in mostly stock condition and they seem to just keep taking it, but, after a while, we decide that we need more power.

On a stock turbo car, most of us are going to upgrade the exhaust system first, or at least we should. A typical system with 3" piping from the turbo-back works well. The power gains are noticeable, boost comes up faster and fuel millage is better in most cases.

Now suppose you had a $1,000.00 budget a stock turbo mustang and you just spent $350.00 on your exhaust. Where do you put the next $750.00 to get the most out of your car?
 

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Myself if you were running say the stock la3 or lb3 ecu i'd upgrade to an adjustable fuel pressure regulator, prob 100-150, get a t3/t4 turbo of your preference for sizing, 60/63 is most standard. and with a little more get the npr front mount intercooler and plumb up the piping yourself. I've seen alot of people turn 300rwhp with a completely stock motor and exhaust, and just upgrading the turbo and front mount. Thats actually the route i'm going now on my DD once I find an uncracked head.
 

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Again I have to agree. I think if one were planning future upgrades, the Large IC and piping would make sense. The turbo upgrade is a good idea, if for no other reason, than most stock T-3's you'll find these day's are in poor shape. I occasionally visit the wrecking yards out here in CA. When ever I come across a turbo ford, I always stop and check to see if the turbo is worth salvaging. Lately, every one I find is cracked through the exhaust housing or has damage to the inlet impeller.

Now this is the really cool thing about turbo 2.3 mustangs, so far, neither one of us has mentioned an internal upgrade, to achieve more power, not that you wouldn't invest in some internals in the near future, but building on what we have discussed, I would put my money toward some kind of a EEC tuner, Tweecar, Mega Squirt, Hal tech, some kind of system which allows tuning.

After that I'm torn between a cam change or an ignition upgrade.
Here's my point about the ignition upgrade.

I have 2 MSD 6AL units, both have the in car spark timing controls. On my XR4ti, I recently pulled the unit off and put the stock system back in. What a difference! Don't get me wrong, the factory system is OK, but the difference which the MSD makes, is in how the car reacts to varying conditions.
On the dyno, you're probably not going to see a 25 HP difference, by adding an MSD ignition, but then you aren't going to have the dozens of other problems you would encounter with the stock ignition, trying to keep the car in tune.

I recently added an MSD to my N/A Mustang and it runs and drives like a different car, off idle acceleration and throttle response and idle are so much better. I'm running more spark advance with the MSD as well.
No, I don't work for MSD, but I have been impressed with how it functions.
 

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As far as internals on the 2.3T's the bottom end can handle well up to 600rwhp as long as it was rebuilt correctly nice and fresh. I have a buddy here in tampa, fl that had a stock bottom end, but many other upgrades and was putting down 585rwhp. The motor has over 100k on it and is still running strong. The main thing with this motor is opening everything up and forcing more air in. Cam plus a port and polish job will make a huge diff in power. Also opening up the intake will help with this to. I'm actually trying to hunt a uncracked head. 4 months with no luck still with 4 different heads. Man i am just having the damnedest time. Think i'm gonna hit the wreckers this weekend and see if I can just find a single plug 2.3 n/a head and have it upgraded to the 2.3t internals.
 

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I have a buddy here in tampa, fl that had a stock bottom end, but many other upgrades and was putting down 585rwhp.

585 rwhp, that's somewhere around 650 HP at the flywheel. I personally, wouldn't risk my $$$ Esslinger head, using stock rods, but that is a good testament to the durability of these engines.


I'm actually trying to hunt a "un-cracked" head. 4 months with no luck still with 4 different heads. Man i am just having the damnedest time. Think i'm gonna hit the wreckers this weekend and see if I can just find a single plug 2.3 n/a head and have it upgraded to the 2.3t internals.

Around here, you can throw a rock here and hit a good 2.3 head. which casting are you looking for?

I was going to toss a good oval port head that I have in the scrap bin, because It's just taking up space. I couldn't bring myself to do it.:(
 

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Personally for casting numbers I essentially want one of the E7's but truthfully, any turbo head would be fantastic. Just as long as it doesn't break my pocket. SVO and 2.3L n/a motors are just like extinct in the state of florida.
 

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Ice Cream Truck Driver
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just for those who dont know, becarful when swapping out a turbo crank into a non turbo block, i just ran into this on this last built job i got. a guy gave me a n/a block and a turbo crank setup and the mains on the crank were way bigger than the mains on the block. n for the record the crank was an original svo and the block was a 8 plug 4cyl
 

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Good point for anyone who is thinking of swapping parts from later model motors.
I remember reading a Ford Technical service bulletin stating (Not 100% positive about this)1991 and later dual plug "Truck" motors have the smaller crank journals. The numbers below are out of some Ford shop manuals I have.

The crankshaft specifications are:

The small Journal crankshaft has:
Main journal size 2.2051-2.2059
Main housing bore 2.3971-2.3979

Earlier crank journal size:
Main journal size 2.3982-2.3990
Main housing bore 2.5902-2.5910


The small Journal crankshaft casting numbers according to my info are: E88E-AB or E89E-AB.

Maybe somebody can confirm this for the rest of us.
 
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