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King Trashmouth
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Discussion Starter #21
Pulled the exhaust valves, and the seats look worn, pitted, and shitty, but not cracked or with a hole in them.

Pretty much at a loss on this one. I know it was pushing exhaust gas into the coolant but I can't find where for the life of me. Can't see any cracks in the bore. Don't see any breach of the fire ring in the headgasket, and don't see any failure points on the head.

Any other ideas? :headscratcher:
 

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King Trashmouth
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Discussion Starter #22
In the light of day I think I found the location of the breach, near the passenger side rear of cyl #4.



The gasket looks immaculate, but you can see some slight carbon tracking between the bore and the coolant jacket. This location on cyl 4 agrees with the fact that it didn't start until those cylinders became active again.

I checked the deck for squareness again, all the way down to 0.005". Perfectly level.

Here's what I'm thinking; the failures seem to point to the dowel side, and closest to the dowels. The dowels took quite a bit to push in on this engine, and may be slightly taller than they need to be, preventing the head from being adequately clamped. It certainly took some effort to get the head to seat.

Game plan (once the head is back) is to take about 1/16" off the dowels, new bolts and gasket, and spray the gasket with some copper RTV to be on the safe side.
 

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When you are checking flatness you should be checking all the way down to .001 if not less.it does appear that your problem is indeed bad sealing of head gasket. Idk where you got the torque angle sequnce, but I always go 40# 60# 100# for my sequence and don't have issues. I've never done a torque angle sequence on a 2.3.
 

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King Trashmouth
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Discussion Starter #24
When you are checking flatness you should be checking all the way down to .001 if not less.it does appear that your problem is indeed bad sealing of head gasket. Idk where you got the torque angle sequnce, but I always go 40# 60# 100# for my sequence and don't have issues. I've never done a torque angle sequence on a 2.3.
I think my feelers only go down to 0.0015", but for an NA engine with a non-MLS gasket I remember 0.006" being the fast and loose guideline. Granted that's going off an old Chilton's manual that's older than I am. Now if this was a high power boosted build I'd check further.

As far as fastener torque, that was the provided instructions that came with the bolts. There seem to be two kinds; the old 12pt non TTY hardware that was torqued to 90 ft-lbs, and the aftermarket TTY bolts that go to 51 ft-lb +90 deg. The three step sequence is in line with a lot of the modular fasteners, especially for such a low torque value. If anything TTY is supposed to make clamping force more uniform since your tension force plateaus as you enter the plastic deformation region; you can change the angle/torque of the fastener over a large range without changing clamping force appreciably.
 

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I personally would never use TTY bolts on a 2.3. I have never bought a new set of bolts for a 2.3. We have tons of them from years of racing, but we have two 4x4 rangers, a2wd ranger, and a mustang. Plus the pinto my dad is building. All have motors that have been apart and all have stock head bolts. My ranger is roughly 11:1 and its got an MLS and I've torqued the bolts on it to 115# ( with a 3" extension on the 1/2" torque wrench). I've only had two bolt failures and one was because of debris in the hole.
 

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King Trashmouth
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Discussion Starter #26
I personally would never use TTY bolts on a 2.3. I have never bought a new set of bolts for a 2.3. We have tons of them from years of racing, but we have two 4x4 rangers, a2wd ranger, and a mustang. Plus the pinto my dad is building. All have motors that have been apart and all have stock head bolts. My ranger is roughly 11:1 and its got an MLS and I've torqued the bolts on it to 115# ( with a 3" extension on the 1/2" torque wrench). I've only had two bolt failures and one was because of debris in the hole.
I haven't been able to find reuseable ones. It seems like the only ones on the market are the TTY 6pt Felpro/Federal Mogul ones, at least aside from the ARP studs.

I can't re-use the stock 12pt ones either because they are just corroded to hell.
 

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I see. We have just had enough motors we have probably 5 sets of good bolts not being used.
 

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Race engineering sells a new head with improved casting design for $450 I think.

.... Well I thought they did.... I don't see it listed any more. Maybe it wasn't them...
 
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