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Discussion Starter #1
I am really thinking about doing the cobra calipers with the bigger rotors in the front and or changing out my pulleys


Are those mods worth it?


Thanks
 

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Worth it? The brake kit is usualy eye candy on a stock GT. If you feel the car doesn't brake well enough for ya then yea its worth it. The UDP's usualy depend on the car. I noticed more from my Stewart water pump than I did my UDP's but they where a nice gain too. My car is/was an auto and they usualy take to mods differnt/better.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Personally I do not like how it stops. My bud has a 02 IS300 lexus it stops like a champ......
 

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Well the cobra/Mach1/bullit kit is a nice upgrade. Get some Hawk pads and it will definatly stop alot better.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I think I will do that. I heard the back brakes do not really need the upgrade... ps your stang looks really nice!
 

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Thank you. N the differnce in the back ones is just a tiny bit bigger rotor. Like I said get the front kit, and Hawk pads all the way around, change to dot 5 fluid and you should stop a hell of alot better.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I will do that! I have about 70 thousand miles on my 02 gt so I want to add some stuff to it to spiff it up. Cause I do not want to buy a new car.
 

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Do you have it lowered yet? There are some nice mods you can do to wake it up and spiff it up.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I was thinking of doing the Eibach springs.. I have done numerous upgrades on my 98 mustang. How hard would it be to do the springs myself/.?
 

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Not hard. Do it when you do the brake upgrade. That way the calipers and everything are off. It takes a couple hours all by yourself but with a little help it goes pretty quick. Its not hard just time consuming. Do you have jacks and jack stands?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Yes I have jacks and jack stands. I am off tomorrow for Good Friday so its a 3 day weekend. I'm wondering what Mod I should tackle tomorrow... What would you do?
 

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Springs and brake upgrade you could do in one day if you had em sitting there. Sounds like that is top of your list. Start there.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Yeah I think I am! On my 98 I did the crankshaft pulley, shocks and struts, sway bar bushings. I have the haynes manual for my 02. I have never changed the breaks on it. Will it require bleeding?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Well I think I will do it tomorrow for sure. If I do I will post pics...


I just want better stopping power.... My buddies ISLEX stops really nice
 

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+ 1... but if no replacing calipers then no if you dont get air in them... i changed the pads on my gt and didnt have to bleed them one bit... just some fyi if you only change pads... the back pistons have to be screwed back in not compressed.... and i used a pair of needle nose pliers and spread them out and put my fingers between the handles to get the right width and screwed the pistons back in...
 

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they make a tool for that cheap ass. :lol j/k
LOL why bother paying for it??? You can rent it from advanced for $40 then get the $40 back when you return it.

Changing out your springs is rather simple...i finally finished mine up tonight. The only part that can be a PITA is the top nut for the front struts...i didnt have the proper tools to do the job, so keeping the strut rod in place while loosening the nut was a fun job. I replaced the sway bars, shocks and struts, and springs when i did this so not everything may apply...

To do the Front...
jack car up, put jack stands on fron frame connections (they are just behind the motor real hard to miss)

disconnect caliper (two bolts, think 13mm) if the spacer starts to spin you will need to hold it in place with a pair of pliers.

disconnect abs sensor (or carefully remove from hold downs, and keep an eye on when raisng lower...i had to do this because the tokico struts are a bit wider than stock, so it was a PITA getting the sensor back in)

take jack and jack up the a-arm of the side you are working on (just below the spring works perfect) Just jack it up enough to put pressure on it, but not enough to raise the car.

Disconnect sway bar (think 15mm but not sure)

Remove bolt from top of strut (22mm) ...to do this you are going to need something to stop the strut from spinning, i used a chizel (but definatly not a prefered method)...if you have a large screw driver that should do the job just fine.

Slowly lower jack...as the jack is coming down, guide the strut down and compress it as it is coming down.

Remove the jack

Now the spring is ready to come out...use a pry bar or something (i used my 22mm wrench) pry at the base of the spring and with some wiggling it will come out.

Follow in reverse for installing the springs (only difference is that you will have to jack up the a-arm to bolt up the strut) It might also be easier to leave the sway bar disconnected until both sides are done. Oh and i have to emphasize one thing about the front spring MAKE SURE THE FRONT SPRINGS ARE ALL THE WAY IN THE POCKET...you will know what im talking about once you look at it.

Rear spings are real easy....i did the front one side at a time (definatly recommend that) on the rear i did it all at once, made it very easy.

Jack up car and put stands on rear frame.

put jack under side you are working on and jack up to put some tension on it.

disconnect quad shock (18mm i think) (its the vertical shock)

disconnect sway bar (18mm) (not sure if you need to do this, i did it because i was replacing it)

Remove side inner panels to get to shocks

remove top bolt (15mm) from shock you are working on (has jack under it) i used a pair of pliers to hold the center rod from spinning

slowly lower jack and guide shock down and compress shock as its coming down.

Do the same for the other side

To remove the spring jack up opposite side of spring you are working on...spring will get loose enough to push out by hand.

Install in opposite order.
 
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