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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I am looking at a 2001 cobra, for various reasons, for a street car/ track car (race track too not just the strip). It comes with the 4.6 aluminum block which will probably be used for a bit but swapped for a more sturdy Teksid block or a Cast Iron block (feel free to give idea's on this as well). But this is what im thinking and would/need info. Also very curious if the stock wiring and computer in the 2001 cobra can but used for a build (that's the reason i wanted the cobra) (and is it 4v or 2v? as i would like reuse the heads if possible)

4.6 Cast Iron or Teksid aluminum (if you think a 5.4 swap is better im open to that as well)
4v heads (let me know if 2v would be better)
Power adders
-Maybe a 150 shot of nitrous for track
Super or turbo maybe later down the road
Also i could use help with what kind of pistons, rods and cams are recomended.

In short i want this car to be ROCK SOLID. I would like to see 100,000 miles out of this motor before rebuilt. I don't mind spending some money upfront if it means better long term reliablity. (i would like the acutal motor be COMPLETELY SOLID and then add power boosters later.) I want to be able to use it EVERYDAY if i have to though i have my V6 for that. But i would like to see a motor like this produce somewhere north of 500hp and plenty more with FI. I would like to have about 550 naturally aspirated HP on pump gas.
Your thoughts are much appreciated. Thank you!
 

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First of all you should just do a search for engine swaps, 2v vs 4v heads, forged builds, stuff like that. There's a ton of information just on this site alone to read, and after that there's good ol' google.

To make 550 hp N/A is going to cost a shitload of money, and you probably wouldn't ever be able to go FI because of the compression ratios you'd have to be running.

You need to decide a couple of things

1) NA or FI - if you want big hp numbers, go with FI from the start
2) Cornering or drag racing - You can either be alright at both, or pretty good at one or the other. A high hp drag car is gonna suck to drive on the streets, good luck getting traction.
3) How serious are you about racing? If you're gonna be drag racing a lot, you need an ET goal rather than a HP goal. Power doesn't mean **** if you can't get it to the ground. If you're serious about corner carving, you're going to spend a whole lot more time and money on your suspension. Jazzer (the member I direct a lot of cornering questions to) has an awesome handling Saleen and it looks fast on the twisties from the videos I've seen, and he's below the 300 rwhp mark.
4) How much money do you have to spend? If you're building a high hp drag car, you'll need to: build up FI engine, upgrade fuel delivery, ignition, front and rear suspension, transmission, rear end, axles, tires, stiffen up the chassis, and drop as much weight as possible. If you're more into cornering, you basically replace every suspension part on the car and add a bunch of parts to remedy the shitty 4-link, stiffen the chassis, balance (and lighten) the car as much as possible and upgrade tires.

This is a very, very broad answer but if you read up on threads on this site they go into much more detail.
 

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First of all you should just do a search for engine swaps, 2v vs 4v heads, forged builds, stuff like that. There's a ton of information just on this site alone to read, and after that there's good ol' google.

To make 550 hp N/A is going to cost a shitload of money, and you probably wouldn't ever be able to go FI because of the compression ratios you'd have to be running.

You need to decide between drag racing and cornering, because I'd suggest two different directions.
With a 4.6, I think 550 na is impossible. Dare I say it, highest na numbers I've seen on none stroked 4.6's has been below 400hp.
 

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you were doing good until you said 550 n/a..
takes displacement too make n/a hp..
we're only 281's..
no replacement for displacement..
the only replacement is boost or nitrous..

4valve heads are what your gonna go with.. maybe a little porting..
i myself would go with a 96-98 cobra. or an 03-04(supercharged from factory.. already forged short block)

i was not impressed with the c ports in the 99-01 cobras..

there is no reason too go 5.4 so dont go that direction..(others may disagree)
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Well i think i have narrowed down my transmission to a tko 600 with a blow proof bell housing. I think you guys are right with the 500 hp goal if i could get 350 out of naturally asperated i would be happy (sorry i was pretty opotmistic haha) but i i would be more of a street driver so the corners are more important. But i when i say drag strip i think maybe once a year...just for kicks between my dad and me. But my main goal here is for the motor to be ROCK solid i don't really care about output more than i do reliablily making that power. I would be more inclinded to do turbos (BUT I LOVE SUPERS) what would you suggest. And i was thinking of a lower compression ratio of about 8.5:1?
 

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Yeah, 350 rwhp N/A is do-able. Heads, cams and full bolt-ons should get you there. If it doesn't and you need more power, you're going to want higher compression pistons. You really need to decide if youre going FI or NA when you pick your cams and pistons though.

If you're replacing your tranny I always recommend a T-56 6 speed. They come in a bunch of different gear ratios and the people at Modern Driveline can help you with that stuff (atleast Jazzer told me they could:))

EDIT: And as far as suspension and cornering, are you wanting to kinda go all out or just have a little better handling car? You should search for a thread called "The official suspension guide". RevDexter wrote it and I think it's stickied on the Modular part of this forum. Pretty much everthing you're going to want to know for doing suspension on a Mustang that isn't a track-only car.
 

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compression is good.. might wanna go with a 23cc dished piston for that.. but if your going 4valve youll only need aroung 18cc dished cause their combustion chamber is bigger lowering the compression..
that is a good choice in transmission.. i run the tko 500.. never had any problems with it!..
350hp is doable:yes

id go turbo
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Well eventually it will be FI but for money reasons i want to make it drivable without it my goal in the end is for the turbos to spool up after 3000. And to have a high OD ratio to keep the RPM's down at highway speeds. Do you guys get what im shooting for...A street car that (sometimes can be used in a racing manor.) and the occasional cocky chevy
 

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ahh.... LS1 swap! FTW!
 

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cause it is badass and can be more badass easily! Mustangman, i have some 5.4 4v heads and a 4v block and 4v timing cover if you wanted to go that way. make ya a good deal!
 

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you can go
- Roush crate motors.
- boss 429
- 460 ci
those are just about your only options...

other then an LS swap.
i respectfully disagree

you can do a 351 windsor with trick flow heads custom grind cam etc or a 408w

theres a local shop here in town that built a 408 clevor that made 575 rwhp on motor through a c6 auto

its possible with one of these motors to get what you want:yes
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Ya see i guess i just want something that is going to be reliable more than anything and something that isn't so heavy over the front end...try to get the weight distribution closer to not so front heavy...and i know the LS1's are sick motors but that wasn't in this forum...let the chevy guys have they're LS1's. But this build is hopeful going to cost less than 10 grand...plus car.
 

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i respectfully disagree

you can do a 351 windsor with trick flow heads custom grind cam etc or a 408w

theres a local shop here in town that built a 408 clevor that made 575 rwhp on motor through a c6 auto

its possible with one of these motors to get what you want:yes
clevland is another option.
either way you choose o.p.
you will need more displacement.

but it would be sooooooooo tight to have a roush big block :D
 

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clevland is another option.
either way you choose o.p.
you will need more displacement.

but it would be sooooooooo tight to have a roush big block :D
definately agree with you on that its gotta be fuek injected considering its a new car.

man if you want 550 hp buy yourself a clevland (strongest out of the 2) 351 block bore and stroke it to a 408 and research some heads a good place to start would be trickflow
as far as the cam i know bullet racing will build a cam to your specs or you tell them what you want out of the motor and you tell the what you have and i believe they do the rest for you. i know most people go with a edelbrock intake but i believe you can go with a 351 efi inatke(if you want fuel injection) just have it ported
 
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