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The place most likely to rust on that is going to be under the vinyl top since it captures moisture. Another common place is the front bottom corners of the doors and you might occasionally find something on the bottom part of the quarter panels behind the rear wheels. The console is also a fairly rare option in the old mustangs.
 

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Discussion Starter #623
The old 2v hit 217,000 Miles today :drink



On another note, i've noticed that the red "BRAKE" light comes on the dash under braking? It use to only do it under extremely hard braking or if the E-brake was pulled. Now it does it under normal or even light braking? However the brakes feel just fine, no difference at all, but the brake fluid in the reservoir is a little below "Max." Could it just be that i need to top off the fluid? I replaced the master cylinder earlier this year so i know that's not leaking. I have SS brake lines all around but haven't checked under the car yet.
 

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Discussion Starter #624
Small update as its finally nice out here in PA and im starting to drive the car more. I have a very loud "whirling?" noise when the car is moving. It almost sounds like awful road noise coming from the tires but the tires are all in good shape with plenty of tread left. I suspect it is coming from either the rear end or maybe the drive shaft yoke? to my knowledge the rear is original to the car and im sure at 217,000 miles its due for something.

Besides that the coolant light it on, and i seem to have lost a small amount of coolant over the winter, topped it off and its been find but ill keep an eye on it. Also I had to finally put a new battery in it, the original one i bought for the car when i first got it 6 years ago finally gave out over the winter and wouldn't hold a charge.
 

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Brake light could be brake sensor related. You may want to check the condition of the rear sensors.

Noise while moving — hard to inter web diagnose, but I’d not driveline related could be wheel bearing?
 

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Discussion Starter #626
Brake light could be brake sensor related. You may want to check the condition of the rear sensors.

Noise while moving — hard to inter web diagnose, but I’d not driveline related could be wheel bearing?
yeah turns out it was just a little low on fluid, easy fix. But you may be onto something with the wheel bearing, didnt think of that
 

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Discussion Starter #628
Did a little maintenance this weekend, just an oil change and sway bar swap. Also wanted to try and find the source of my road noise. Turns out Wade_GT was right! my driver side front wheel bearing is on it way out. Surprised at how cheap these are on rockauto, I'll probably just do both since they are so cheap. I sadly have only driven the car a little more than 1,100 miles in the past year. I also swapped the front and rear sway bars out to ones off of a 1997 cobra. The front i believe was only 2mm thicker but the rear was substantially thicker! and they were free since i am parting out my 1997 cobra so I figured why not.

There is a nice little sway bar size chart that LMR made up for those wondering, click here

That's a lot of miles for that nice of a vehicle! Good find!
Thank you!







 

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Lots of stuff to probably replace with 200,000 miles. I rebuilt a 150,000 2003 Buick Regal for my Step-Son's first car. Took me about a year to get it all done. I only paid $500 for the car. It was my sisters and was garage kept. Runs good for a first car for him.
 

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Worst problem I had was the brake lines. The rusted out because the car was never undercoated even though it was garage kept. The body is in great shape, but the break lines rusted and were such a pain to replace.
 

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Discussion Starter #632
Long post warning!

Nearly a year since the last update, and wow they really redesigned this forum! Not sure that I like it.

Sadly again I drove it less than 1,000 since its last oil change last April... However after pushing off the project I finally got the time to pull the ol' 218,000 2v motor in my car, i was also somewhat forced to pull it as the rust on my driver side strut tower is a safety concern:cry:. Pulled it out yesterday and my god i didn't realize how dirty my engine bay really was!



My plan was to do this last week but I hit a bit of a snag with the UPR tubular K-member i order a few years back. I ordered it on a black Friday sale with intent to install it soon, obviously that didn't happen, so the box sat in the garage for a long time. Fast forward to last week when i went to assemble the control arms. The first issue I ran into was the bushings for the control arms themselves. They are slightly different lengths and nowhere in the instructions does UPR say this. So i installed them thinking they are all the same. the picture below will show they are not and i didn't notice until i went to bolt the arm to the K-member. No biggie, pushed the bushings out and fixed it. Then I found my second issue. The passenger side control arm fit perfectly... the driver side arm on the other hand did not fit at all. After spending some time thinking I had the wrong arm on the wrong side or that I messed up the bushings. I broke out the tape measure and turns out the driver side control arm has the bushing tubes welding on incorrectly, the bigger tube was welded to where to smaller one was suppose to go and vice versa.









Called UPR on, got an actual person explained the issue, they asked me to email them some photos, they agreed with the issue and told me to send the arms back to them and they will send replacement ones out no charge. Honestly impressed with that as like I said above, I bought this kit a few years ago. So good on UPR! Only downside was that they didn't have any black arms available so told me they would send silver, it looks kinda weird but not like most people will see the underside of my car anyway. New arms arrived, had a few chips/scratches on the one arm but again, I was just grateful that they helped me out and its under the car so im not that worried. More importantly the silver arms fit like a glove!









While i waited for the replacement control arms to arrive I got started on removing the wiring harness, labeling everything i possible could in order to make it as easy as possible when hooking up the built 2v. I also removed the intake manifold so that i could pull the motor. I am going to reuse the stock manifold on my built 2v so I figured i'll take it off now. After that it was a piece of cake.. well besides that top passenger trans bolt and that top start bolt... if ya know ya know :mad:. With the trans disconnected and backed off the dowel pins, it was time to finally remove the 2v after nearly 21 years. Honestly it lived a good life and would probably keep on trucking if i didn't have to remove it because of the rust.













 

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Discussion Starter #633 (Edited)
Now I know that the clutch in my car was replaced in 2009, the mileage at which it was replaced at I do not know because the shop that did it didn't write the mileage on the repair order :rolleyes: However, looking at service records before the clutch was done and records a few weeks after the clutch was done, I believe it was done somewhere around 150,000 miles. The car currently has 217,800 miles on it now, that's 11 years and about 70,000 miles 20,000 miles of those were from me.. and when I first got this car in High School I learned to drive stick in it and well... I beat on it every now and then, what high schooler wouldn't!?


To me the flywheel looks like hell, especially compared to how the one in my 97' cobra looked when I put a clutch in that. What is everyone's opinion on how the flywheel looks? I am not reusing it as i have a lightweight SPEC flywheel and a King Cobra stage 2 clutch to go with the new motor. The clutch however looks pretty on par with having 70,000 on it and honestly it felt great! wish I knew what clutch kit it was, but the only markings i could find were a part number on the pressure plate and a stamping that seemed to say "Modo SP"? I googled the "SCMU229" pressure plate number and didn't find anything besides a Sachs clutch disk, so maybe Sachs or I assume Valeo? who knows, it was a good clutch, it taught myself and two others how to drive stick as well as made a handful of passes down the strip!

Did a little more digging on the clutch, looks like it is made my a company called "Seco Global" From what i can tell is they are a factory for many clutch companies. So it was probably just your average run of the mill parts store clutch kit.

225398
















also got a look at the rear main seal, to me it looks nice and dry, I assume when they did the clutch they also did the rear main seal. The oil/grease all around it I believe to be from the oil pan gasket because my god that **** is everywhere around the bottom of the motor. I also found a date sticker on the back of the driver side valve cover, its a few days off from the date written in the V of the block, surprised its in such great shape!





I will be updating this a bit more frequently now that i got the ball rolling, I am a lot more active on Instagram so if you want to see more pictures or ask me questions feel free to do so over there!
 

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Looks good man! I would suggest posting on sn95forums as there is a lot of traffic and its got a lot of great people.


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Discussion Starter #636
Jelly of your shop! Yea this place seems pretty dead these days....

Looks good man! I would suggest posting on sn95forums as there is a lot of traffic and its got a lot of great people.


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it's a damn shame this forum, well most forums i guess are so dead. this place has a wealth of knowledge and alot of people who really know these cars. Guess i'll have to give that forum a shot!
 

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I saw a post and was coming over to tell you what 07GT said already. Come to SN95forums. It's much more lively and the layout isn't headache inducing.

Jealous as hell on that shop! Come on over. Sadly this place is dead now. I even started a random build thread there because ... why not. I'm stuck at home. Hope to see you soon.
 

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Nice man! I remember following this thread years ago. My 2001 GT that I bought with 232K on it is still going, at 289,94x as of this morning, will cross over 290K probably Wednesday. Still on original engine, trans, rear. I'll keep it going to half a million if it'll do it with religious maintenance and some luck. I've bought a 2019 5.0 401A PP1 since, but never drive it. Lol. Has 905 miles on it. Always in my 2V.
 

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I have a 17 gt pp1 myself and I like it a lot but it doesn’t satisfy me like my 02 gt does. Theres just something about these cars that I love.


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