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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
ok i am new to mustangs completley.. i preordered a 2010 gt with the works to include track pack and 3.73 gears. car is black with red leather interior and full power with 8in touch screen. i got the car here in afghanistan and i only paid 29 k.
my questions are : Can you run S/c that are for the years of 05 to 09 on an 2010?
:what is the max boost a stock bottom end can handle even if you dont beat the car or track it?

: I have my eye on the kenne belle 2.6 stage two caues it seems to produce the most whp with 10psi!
any repsonse would be helpful. thanks
 

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It's a new car there hasn't been anyone to see if the engines are compatible with eachother. You can take the jump for all the 2010 owners and try it out if you would like but your best bet is just to use what is made for the 2010 or wait for more options
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
From all the guys who have mustangs , they say that the top three s/c kits are whipple , kenne belle and pro charger. if they are true why , whats good about this roush kit?
 

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2011 September ROTM
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i ran 10 psi on my motor with a procharger and it lasted three days but im pretty sure my guy that tuned it had no clue what he was doing
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
dont quote me but i heard that 3v engines should be able to hold 10psi for at least 100k milies without any issues. and i also heard that the stock 4.6 can only hold 520whp without totally tearing the bottom end apart! does any of this sound correct?
 

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The Despised Vert
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no it is not correct.. not as a general rule... 450 is the common agreed safe rwhp and some guys have pushed up to around 500 but anything over that is asking for problems.. I am sure you want the car to last a long time so why push it... 8 psi is a good number for any blower and it will give you enough power to be in the low 12 high 11's range. the way the rest of the car is set up will become a major concern when you start making big power.
 

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IBEATU
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I am making 10 pounds and 485 rwhp. Some have blown at less and some have lasted with more. A lot of it is in the tune. My friends GT has a Paxton pushing 12.5 pounds and over 550 rwhp with race fuel. No problems YET, but he knows he's playing with fire and plans to drop a forged motor in it this winter.
 

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All sissies going to Hell!
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You can run more power/boost with a centri. It is more common and accepted. The problem you first run into with the engine blowing the **** up is the rods, and they break from torque. So There are some people that run stupid boost forever, and never have a problem, and others will run 10psi for 3 days and blow up.

It is about tuning, your kit working right, not having cmcv's on a centri car, Supporting mods. Not running more than 10 psi, your air/fuel being correct, Changing your oil on time or early, using mobil 1 or any full synthetic(yes full synthetic and it does matter I don't care what anyone says, My friend goes to school here The Most Respected Name in Motorsports Education - School of Automotive Machinists and he builds stupid ****ing cars from nothing, I trust him). And keeping your engine clean (oil seperator, clean the maf, clean the TB, ect), If the car runs clean and strong you will have alot less problems.

450rwhp is plenty, and is infact the "safe" zone. 480-500rwhp on a centri is pushing it, but should be solid for a while. But you will need forged internals soon for a safe and reliable motor.
 

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From all the guys who have mustangs , they say that the top three s/c kits are whipple , kenne belle and pro charger. if they are true why , whats good about this roush kit?
That's partially true.

Eaton (Roush) one of the largest OEM supercharger manufacturers in the country who also supplies the TVS rotors for both Roush and Edelbrock. The Eaton kits are tested like no other. Eaton is a HUGE company with deep pockets.

Quite simply, the Roush kit is one of the most efficient roots or screw supercharger kits you can buy (it is a Roots blower).

You are also forgetting Paxton and Saleen, both of whom make excellent kits.

It depends on what you want...when you mention Whipple/Kenne Bell (twin-screws) and Procharger (Centrifugal blower) in the same sentence you are talking apples and oranges.

The Roush / Eaton / Edelbrock roots blowers are more similar to the KB/Whipple/Saleen than they are to the Paxton / Vortechs.

I would pick a desired power level and build the car to attain that level. Forged or not forged block, etc.

On a 2010, the Roush TVS is available right now and is a proven solution.

ROUSH Performance: 2010 Mustang R2300 Supercharger Kit

On a non-forged block, I would add a Carmen Goudey 3.47" pulley like I have and a custom tune (or tune from Chris Rose at Tillman Speed) and lay down 475-512 RWHP depending on timing and call it good if you want to remain unforged.
 

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There is no solid answer on how much boost. I am sure others will chime in with a similar opinion, but it is ALL factors combined...boost, timing, fuel octane, how good your tune is, how reliable your fuel supply is, and whether you are running a Centri or screws / roots technology.

A centri "ramps up" into the boost, so it is generally accepted that a centri (ie Paxton, Vortech) is easier on your engine and therefore you can run more boost if all the other factors are acceptable (timing, fuel, etc. as mentioned).

Lots of us are running around 10 PSI with peaks in the 11-13 PSI range and making 475-525 RWHP all day, including drag racing, with no problems on a non-forged bottom end. Personally, with the setup I mentioned above, I run 476 RWHP for my daily-driver street tune and I have had no issues and flog my car hard. NastyStang runs a TVS and runs a tune with over 500 RWHP with no issues.

A good "safe" RWHP target is often mentioned as being 450, but I personally feel there are enough of us running more than that safely that that is an invalid number, although in that "ball-park" is not a bad idea if you want really good longevity.

You can blow your engine up at 375 RWHP with a crappy tune.
 

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May 08 ROTM
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Firstly, you have abrand new car, products have been out already, but the big hitters are either just coming or on the way soon. With a brand new ride, why even risk piece parting a blower to a car off previous model years? Just unbunch your panties and wait. I'd be more worried about finding a tuner there, than pushing 10lbs at the darn thing.

Second, all of the above regarding blowers has been so over discussed it's retarded. All I am going to add into this thread is this: Take a ride in a car that has each. At the very least, ride in a centri and a twin screw.
 
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