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From all the guys who have mustangs , they say that the top three s/c kits are whipple , kenne belle and pro charger. if they are true why , whats good about this roush kit?
That's partially true.

Eaton (Roush) one of the largest OEM supercharger manufacturers in the country who also supplies the TVS rotors for both Roush and Edelbrock. The Eaton kits are tested like no other. Eaton is a HUGE company with deep pockets.

Quite simply, the Roush kit is one of the most efficient roots or screw supercharger kits you can buy (it is a Roots blower).

You are also forgetting Paxton and Saleen, both of whom make excellent kits.

It depends on what you want...when you mention Whipple/Kenne Bell (twin-screws) and Procharger (Centrifugal blower) in the same sentence you are talking apples and oranges.

The Roush / Eaton / Edelbrock roots blowers are more similar to the KB/Whipple/Saleen than they are to the Paxton / Vortechs.

I would pick a desired power level and build the car to attain that level. Forged or not forged block, etc.

On a 2010, the Roush TVS is available right now and is a proven solution.

ROUSH Performance: 2010 Mustang R2300 Supercharger Kit

On a non-forged block, I would add a Carmen Goudey 3.47" pulley like I have and a custom tune (or tune from Chris Rose at Tillman Speed) and lay down 475-512 RWHP depending on timing and call it good if you want to remain unforged.
 

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There is no solid answer on how much boost. I am sure others will chime in with a similar opinion, but it is ALL factors combined...boost, timing, fuel octane, how good your tune is, how reliable your fuel supply is, and whether you are running a Centri or screws / roots technology.

A centri "ramps up" into the boost, so it is generally accepted that a centri (ie Paxton, Vortech) is easier on your engine and therefore you can run more boost if all the other factors are acceptable (timing, fuel, etc. as mentioned).

Lots of us are running around 10 PSI with peaks in the 11-13 PSI range and making 475-525 RWHP all day, including drag racing, with no problems on a non-forged bottom end. Personally, with the setup I mentioned above, I run 476 RWHP for my daily-driver street tune and I have had no issues and flog my car hard. NastyStang runs a TVS and runs a tune with over 500 RWHP with no issues.

A good "safe" RWHP target is often mentioned as being 450, but I personally feel there are enough of us running more than that safely that that is an invalid number, although in that "ball-park" is not a bad idea if you want really good longevity.

You can blow your engine up at 375 RWHP with a crappy tune.
 
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