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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've got a 2011 Roush Stage 1 with 20" Roush rims and 275/35/20 Cooper S tires all the way around. I am looking to eliminate the monster truck look and get as small of fender gap as possible without running into rubbing and fitment issues. Thoughts on setup?



 

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Fear The Rain... Butt...?
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Since it is an actual Roush, I'd say just go buy the complete Roush handling package that the Stage 2, Stage 3, and special edition Roush Mustangs all came with. That's assuming that you want to stay with Roush parts. If that doesn't matter to you or you don't plan on ever selling the car, get a full BMR or Steeda suspension package. Both of those companies have representatives on here and would be glad to help you out with any questions or placing an order.
 

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Don't BAAAAH 'Til Goatsday
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Since it is an actual Roush, I'd say just go buy the complete Roush handling package that the Stage 2, Stage 3, and special edition Roush Mustangs all came with. That's assuming that you want to stay with Roush parts. If that doesn't matter to you or you don't plan on ever selling the car, get a full BMR or Steeda suspension package. Both of those companies have representatives on here and would be glad to help you out with any questions or placing an order.
:withhomo:withhomo:withhomo:withhomo:withhomo:withhomo:withhomo:withhomo:withhomo

Ah you always could go with air ride ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Staying all Roush parts doesn't matter to me, and I don't plan on selling the car. I just want the fenders to hug the tires and eliminate the horrendous monster truck rally look. esp. since my wheels are flat black your eyes immeadiately go to that gap.
 

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Fear The Rain... Butt...?
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Staying all Roush parts doesn't matter to me, and I don't plan on selling the car. I just want the fenders to hug the tires and eliminate the horrendous monster truck rally look. esp. since my wheels are flat black your eyes immeadiately go to that gap.
I'd say go with Steeda coilovers then. :rockon
 

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Want Camels?
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Well, to make it simple for you..

1-If you don't care that much about "performance and alignment" go for lowering springs ONLY

2- If you don't care about performance but alignment go for springs along with panhard bar

3-If you care about both but not taking the risk of spending and changing so many parts go for aftermarket shocks and struts along with the springs, add the Panhard bar to correct the lateral axle alignment and the LCA to reduce the wheelhop

4-Naughty?? hook up a full suspension setup and if you can spend more invest in better shocks and struts (something better than FRPP) (check my sig)

decide which plan you wanna take to minimize your search and help us giving you feedback according to what you want :)
 

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While we wait on Whiskey to chime in, here's some thoughts.

If you do any suspenssion work, do it right the first time, or don't do anything. If it's not worth it to you to replace the SYSTEM, then stay stock.

There are lots of reputable companies out there. BMR, Steeda, even the FRPP stuff is really good. Just need to know the goals of your car and how you intend on driving it.

My car rides on the FRPP K springs, non adjustable dampers, GT500 strut mounts and adj panhard bar. The ride is comfy, but handling is excellent. Since your car is not upgraded with the lower control arms, I would recomend these be changed as well.

There are other opinions out there. So don't just listen to what one or two of us will say.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
The car is my DD and long term goals will be forced induction with HP goals of 650-700rwhp. I don't plan on tracking the car, or doing much drag strip time (not any strips local) whatever I plan on doing I want to do it all at once and do it right the first time. Car will be mostly a street machine... With occasional trips to the "tail of the dragon" and hitting up country Alabama roads. Also budget is 1500-2000
 

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PM Kelly (BMRTech) and he can get a good package together for you. They know thier stuff too. You could also ask SteedaMatt or Whiskey11 (he's the MM suspenssion guru) for additional direction and advice.
 

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At the Apex pulling 1.28g
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I'd say go with Steeda coilovers then. :rockon
No...

I don't care how well Steeda sells you on these, the reality is that it is a set of Tokico D-Specs, some 2.5" coilover springs and an adjustable spring perch. As someone who has and still is running D-Specs in a competition environment and a daily driver environment, this will do more harm than good. Their damping adjustments are tied together and the result is almost always piss poor ride with inadequate control of the springs and the chassis. That isn't to say they are worse than stock, they certainly are better than anything that came from Ford.

Here is my recommendation:
Koni Yellows or Koni STR.T or Bilstein HD's
Replacement strut mounts (this will still be necessary)
Your choice of springs
Adjustable PHB

I strongly urge you to research what dropping these cars will do to suspension geometry. The drop you are looking for (tires nearly touching the fenders) is really pushing what I would consider to be a safe drop. About 1.25" in the front and 1.5" in the rear is as far as I would go without looking into REAL coilovers. Why? Because the lower you go the higher the chances of you bottoming out a shock or strut over a bump. You also lose a lot of forward grip from the rear geometry change, you also run into issues of bumpsteer and loss of camber up front if you are into corner carving.

I would set yourself a very clear goal on what you expect from your car and any competition style you may eventually decide to try and build to that goal. If all you want to do is drop the car, look no further than the list above, but I think you can build a lot better suspension set up with a clear goal in your mind as to where you'd like your car to eventually be.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
@Whiskey

I think between common sense and my goals for the car I would want something that hugs corners. I like the setup you suggested, would eibach Sportlines work well with that setup? Roughly 2" rear and 1.6" front.
 

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At the Apex pulling 1.28g
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@Whiskey

I think between common sense and my goals for the car I would want something that hugs corners. I like the setup you suggested, would eibach Sportlines work well with that setup? Roughly 2" rear and 1.6" front.
While there is nothing wrong with the springs themselves, I personally, don't like how much of a drop they have (moving into creating geometry issues for yourself) and the fact that they are somewhat progressively wound. That progressively wound nature is more or less, bi-linear. If you were to plot the spring rate on a graph there would be a knee where it gets significantly stiffer after being compressed a certain distance. There are two camps about this, one that says that is noticeable, the other that says the weight of the car compresses that section. From my own intuition (and not experience mind you) even if the weight of the car at static ride height compresses through the softer portion of the spring, that change will happen any time the inside side of the car lifts (or doesn't drop :p) due to weight transfer and in changing directions I would think that it would present itself in a rather rude fashion as the spring suddenly changes to the much stiffer rate.

The other thing is, I'm not sure those springs really are that stiff to keep the car from bottoming out the suspension all the time. Even with the bumpstops in place, you are constantly using those bump stops as a spring and bumpstops are very unforgiving and rapidly become solid and non-compressible. That doesn't aid in handling at all.

The Pro-Line may be a better option with the more mild drop but again, they are bi-linear or progressive, however you wish to say it. For me personally that isn't what I want. I opted to go with Steeda Sports and don't regret it, but my goals are much more different than yours. Like I said, it's not that the springs are low quality, on the contrary, Eibach makes great springs at affordable rates, they just don't fit MY goals. Will they work for you? Yeah probably.

If you decide to go that route, look heavily into some lower control arm relocation brackets (and you might as well look into the LCA's as well) to help get some forward bite back that you lost from the drop causing the antisquat to be reduced in the rear. Antisquat is exactly as it sounds, it is the force that reduces squat. More than 100% antisquat causes the chassis to raise over the rear axle on hard launches (see drag launches) and this plants the tires really well but for handling that much antisquat produces brake hop (rear axle hops under braking) which, like wheel hop, will destroy the rear end. It's fine for drag racers, but for handling, it is a fine balance. There is also rear roll steer issues associated with the arcs the lower control arms make and how the rear axle steers during body roll. Dropping the axle side of the LCA's (like drag racers do for more antisquat) causes roll oversteer which can make the car extremely twitchy during cornering. The opposite, roll understeer, occurs when the axle side is higher than the chassis side and is generally safer but can make the car less willing to change directions. That said, for corner carving, it is said that the LCA's should be horizontal or slightly below for the best mix of roll steer characteristics and antisquat value (forward bite). With a 2" rear drop, you will definitely be loosing forward bite.
 

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Don't BAAAAH 'Til Goatsday
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Well whiskey.... Just saying you really should work for a suspension company....

To add a little, priddy I have a Roush front bumper and splitter. I also have a set of h&r coil-overs. I DD at about 1 finger of wheel gap. On slanted drives ways or and parking lots at higher then a 10° angle. I scrape my front end on the pavement. I don't know if your front end hangs as low ( but Rember I don't have a true Roush)
 

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At the Apex pulling 1.28g
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Well whiskey.... Just saying you really should work for a suspension company....

To add a little, priddy I have a Roush front bumper and splitter. I also have a set of h&r coil-overs. I DD at about 1 finger of wheel gap. On slanted drives ways or and parking lots at higher then a 10° angle. I scrape my front end on the pavement. I don't know if your front end hangs as low ( but Rember I don't have a true Roush)
Unfortunately I lack the college education (more or less just the degree, went to school [for a year and a half] for Aerospace Engineering at one of the top AE colleges in the world, but no degree) in engineering to ever work where I would WANT to work in a suspension company. That leaves me with sales, and I don't really see myself as being able to work as sales. I work with sales people all day in a jewelry store and I see how they are and I know I don't want to be them!

I have, many times, thought about opening up a suspension storefront that sells BMR, Steeda, Koni, etc, etc, but I don't have the capital or knowhow to start a business!
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Well I finally made a decision on my suspension, after a lot of reading I decided to just bite the bullet and do everything right the first time. I contacted Kelly @ BMR and he was very knowledgable and hooked me up with a sweet setup.

Koni Shocks/Struts Part No. KON-M0510-OR
BMR Springs
UCA Mount – UCM002
UCA – UTCA032
Adj. Panhard Bar - PHR006
Non Adj. LCA’s – TCA019
LCA Relo Brackets – CAB005
Camber Bolts / doubt i'll need them but got'em just in case
2011 GT500 strut Mounts – M-18183-C

The shocks/struts are back ordered so hopefully they'll be here soon! pretty stoked to get all of this installed and tweaked.
 
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