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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok im a chevy guy for starters [Flame suit on]... My friend has a saleen mustang stg 2. He blew a hole through the block so now its time for a new one...He wants to make around 5xx-6xx rwhp. I told him its big money but eh...My question is what type of bottom end do you put in 2v cars to withstand boost able to make it to that level he wants? also supporting mods...i.e. susp...etc
 

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forge the internals stroke it and throw a blower on it. about 10 grand he will be ripping you and your fellow GM friends apart.. hah
 

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i dont know but i think the stock iron block would be capable of holding that

edit: how the hell did he blew a hole through it?
 

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any forged rods will work, manley h beams are the most popular, and mahl pistons are the most popular. any of the blocks will work just fine but make sure he gets the same block as the one he broke becaseu hell have some problems if hes mixes and matches stuff. anyways, he doesnt need an mmr motor, he just needs a basic forged rotating assembly and hell be good to go. what kind of blower is he gonna run to get those power numbers becaseu that saleen blower isnt going to cut it.
 

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livernois internals will work for 1000hp and u can get yourself a stock 4.6 block cheap
 

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my motor will make 1000 also and its a dss. there are tons of different options. but how did he throw a rod. must have been spinning the **** out of it. rods dont just break and then go through the block. stock engines shold be turned past 6500
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
his engine was stock except for the saleen underdrive pulley. no tuning. no raised limiter idk what happened. i think hes looking about spending ~10k maybe a few thousand more. But i suggested he needs supporting mods and to not put it all in the engine.
 

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he can do a basic stock displacement motor with forged internals for 3k or so and put the rest in mods
 

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i too am a gm guy, but stuck with the mustang because of the wife. the block isnt an issue for power ratings, just internals. if he wanted the best block possible, it would have to be the teksid. stock crank will hold 650rwhp, and if treated can hold more. dss, mmr, livernois, mod max, are about the most common places to get rotating assembly's or short block. the list can go on and on for parts, comes down to personal preference on what to do and where to buy.
 

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the stock block is fine.

he needs internals.

the stock block is good for like 800 or so HP.
MMR has made over 2k with the a ford modular block.

if he plans with 5xx-600 he should consider looking at an mmr shortblock
I agree.

any forged rods will work, manley h beams are the most popular, and mahl pistons are the most popular. any of the blocks will work just fine but make sure he gets the same block as the one he broke becaseu hell have some problems if hes mixes and matches stuff. anyways, he doesnt need an mmr motor, he just needs a basic forged rotating assembly and hell be good to go. what kind of blower is he gonna run to get those power numbers becaseu that saleen blower isnt going to cut it.
By the time you buy the parts have all the machine work done, and have it assembled it saves very little money. It is just easier to by a professionally built shortblock by someone only specializes in them, and I also recommend MMR!

it was n/a but i think he is gonna go procharger. im seeing a pattern. lot of the same brands for the other side as well
Prochargers are cool. But I'm not a fan of the p1sc.

i too am a gm guy, but stuck with the mustang because of the wife. the block isnt an issue for power ratings, just internals. if he wanted the best block possible, it would have to be the teksid. stock crank will hold 650rwhp, and if treated can hold more. dss, mmr, livernois, mod max, are about the most common places to get rotating assembly's or short block. the list can go on and on for parts, comes down to personal preference on what to do and where to buy.
Here's the best block on the market but it is big coin, The teskid is the toughest alumunum block made.

The Biggest Baddest Modular EVER, sporting 351 cubic inches/5.8 Liters with a factory stroke 5.4 Crankshaft, 360 degree cooling around cylinder heads eliminates hot spots and reduces detonation. ALL factory components bolt right on, accepts all heads (2V, 3V, and 4V)

 

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I would also reccomend MMR. I put in a street mod 900 shortblock last fall and I am really happy with it. If he puts a nice set of heads, cams and a kenne bell blower he will be pretty mean.
 
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