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Discussion Starter #1
Ok. I have decided to use a boss block but I am confused on the rotating ass.

what should I look into getting. which brands are good and reliable? I am

looking at making over 600 hp when its all said and done. I want to know what

type of crank to get? what is the difference between h-beam and I-beam rods?

which is better and why? I know I need forged pistons. just give me some ideas

about what brands are good, Scat? Eagle? dss? Chp?


also what parts will I need (top end wise) to get around 420 to the wheels N/A?

Thanks in advice guys!

Matt.
 

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i myself have had very good luck with CHP. I called them told them what i was wanting to use the car for and about a hour later my stroker kit was on its way. i went with a scat crank also because of good previous experience. My car was 506 rwhp N/A i would still have the car but repacing transmissions got old. ( run of bad luck with trannys) And as for the rods i personally would go with I beam rods they are stronger but more expensive too. Just do it right dont cut corners on a build you will regret it in the end
 

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And as for the rods i personally would go with I beam rods they are stronger but more expensive too. Just do it right dont cut corners on a build you will regret it in the end
Wrong and wrong......

H beams are more expensive and stronger in most cases, on the average stroker kits. The advantages to I beams, are that they are lighter. Most people think they have to have H beams, because they think of a stock rod when they think I beam. A good aftermarket I beam is sufficient in most N/A builds. I built my 408 with I beams because that 8 lbs I took off the rotating mass by using I beams, instead of H beams, will make a big difference in acceleration. Unless you're putting a lot of force into it, about the only way you're going to break a rod, is to spin a bearing and weld it to the crank, and that would break any rod.
 

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If you haven't bought the block yet, I suggest going dart instead. The 8.2 deck boss blocks have short cylinder walls. Using a 3.4" stroke crank in them will bring the piston down farther than is safe and won't leave enough skirt in the bores to keep the piston from excessive rocking. The only way to get a 347 in a boss block and not have to worry about piston rock is to go with a 3.25" stroke and a 4.125" bore. In that case, you're better off getting a dart and doing a 4.125" bore and a 3.4" stroke and going with a 363. More cubes, no worries about a cylinder that's .350" shorter than stock.

So far that I've seen, CHP has good kits for the money. Probe makes good parts and scat is decent too.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Wrong and wrong......

H beams are more expensive and stronger in most cases, on the average stroker kits. The advantages to I beams, are that they are lighter. Most people think they have to have H beams, because they think of a stock rod when they think I beam. A good aftermarket I beam is sufficient in most N/A builds. I built my 408 with I beams because that 8 lbs I took off the rotating mass by using I beams, instead of H beams, will make a big difference in acceleration. Unless you're putting a lot of force into it, about the only way you're going to break a rod, is to spin a bearing and weld it to the crank, and that would break any rod.
see thats what I had heard. so will h-beam and I-beam rods make a huge difference in throttle response??

I'm assuming so since it will lighten the rotating assembly.

If you haven't bought the block yet, I suggest going dart instead. The 8.2 deck boss blocks have short cylinder walls. Using a 3.4" stroke crank in them will bring the piston down farther than is safe and won't leave enough skirt in the bores to keep the piston from excessive rocking. The only way to get a 347 in a boss block and not have to worry about piston rock is to go with a 3.25" stroke and a 4.125" bore. In that case, you're better off getting a dart and doing a 4.125" bore and a 3.4" stroke and going with a 363. More cubes, no worries about a cylinder that's .350" shorter than stock.

So far that I've seen, CHP has good kits for the money. Probe makes good parts and scat is decent too.

ok thanks for the info. I had heard of this and been reading up a bunch on it. I already have the block it kinda fell into my lap. but eveything I have read seems to say that no one has had a problem yet.
 

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I wouldn't say huge difference, but anytime you lighten the rotating assembly, it makes a difference. If you're planning on spraying a bunch to it, I'd go with H beams.
 

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It's not like the engine is going to come apart at first start up. But piston rock will cause it to gulp a little oil at BDC, and increase the wear on your cylinder walls/pistons. I've seen 3 engine builders with very good reputations try a 3.4" stroke on those blocks and recommend others not do the same.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
It's not like the engine is going to come apart at first start up. But piston rock will cause it to gulp a little oil at BDC, and increase the wear on your cylinder walls/pistons. I've seen 3 engine builders with very good reputations try a 3.4" stroke on those blocks and recommend others not do the same.
good to know. ok how bout this? what do you guys know about the sportsman 302 block? I have heard there good to 650 hp?

input?
 

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Talking about the b block? They're 2 bolt main blocks. Basically the same as a 289HiPo or a mex block. Not worth the money IMO. The r block is a lot better. The boss block is a good block other than the cylinder length, if you've got the big bore, just run the 3.25 stroke 347 and you'll be fine.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
ok, I understand there are better set ups, but I am on a budget and I already have the boss block and the sportsman block. so Tell me what you would do with either of the two blocks.

Thanks

Matt
 
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