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Discussion Starter #1
Found a 351w 89 non roller short block for $100.00 and a 95 i think roller for $350 both need rebuilt I would like to see 500-600 horse maybe a turbo or stroke it some day witch do you think would be a better buy? If i am going to stroke it should i even bother or just use a 302 block?
 

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you can buy the roller conversion from summit for like 60 bucks and new roller lifters for like 115 you can use your old 302 roller lifters if there in good shape also if the non roller block is from the late 60's early 70's it will handel way more power
 

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408 stroker FTW :rockon build it then show it to me when you come to the car show in Indy
 

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you can buy the roller conversion from summit for like 60 bucks and new roller lifters for like 115 you can use your old 302 roller lifters if there in good shape also if the non roller block is from the late 60's early 70's it will handel way more power
Keep dreaming, the lifter bosses aren't long enough for roller lifters unless you use a retro fit roller cam...which woody will tell you, the cores are too thin and are harmonically unstable...ie junk.

You can use retrofit roller lifters which are about $500

Personally, I'd just go with a solid roller and the older style block.
 

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Keep dreaming, the lifter bosses aren't long enough for roller lifters unless you use a retro fit roller cam...which woody will tell you, the cores are too thin and are harmonically unstable...ie junk.

You can use retrofit roller lifters which are about $500

Personally, I'd just go with a solid roller and the older style block.
what do you run in you motor ryan?flat tappet or solid roller?
 

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hydraulic flat in the 88, hydraulic roller in the 89.

Going to swap the clevor over to solid roller...but it is looking more and more like that is happening next year. My car is in body shop prison right now.
 

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hydraulic flat in the 88, hydraulic roller in the 89.

Going to swap the clevor over to solid roller...but it is looking more and more like that is happening next year. My car is in body shop prison right now.
I know all about the body shop man.Do you need special lifters or a special cam to change it over to a solid roller or does that only apply to hydraulic rollers'/?
 

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solid roller lifters work with both the new and old blocks, the oil orifice is lower.
 

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solid roller lifters work with both the new and old blocks, the oil orifice is lower.
Ok thanks man thats what i thought but i was unsure
 

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Discussion Starter #12
cool thanks guys i will probble end up getting the roller and let it sit for a bit untill i get my car back together and my settlment for my back then we will see what we have to play with
 

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i like the idea of the roller myself
 

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i'm in the same boat, i'm saving for a 408 stroker using a roller 351 block, i already have the block and all i hear is about how bad and weak the blocks are but come on they've got to be stronger then 302 blocks and i've seen guys run mid to low 10s on them so what gives ?? i know the older blocks are stronger but will a roller block hold up and be reliable ? i want to shave 8/10s off my current combos time and my goal is to run a 9.90 is that unreasonable using a 408 based on a roller block and a shot of juice ? i figured the advantages of a roller cam vs flat tappet ( my car sees tons of street duty that's why i don't want to run a solid roller ) would far outweigh the small difference in block strenght especially since i don't plan to build an 8 sec car , am i wrong ?? i don't want to be a thread jacker but this is the 351 roller or non thread
 

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you can use a early block with the $500 retrofit lifters. Sure they are $380 more than OEM ford lifters, but you also don't need the $60 retrofit kit, so now they are only $320 more. Is that too much to pay for a stronger block with better lifters?

The roller block is still strong enough for around 600-700 hp.
 

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so for a street strip car would it be better to have the f4 block with the standard hydraulic lifters or use the older block and get solid lifter......the only thing is i thot you have to keep check on the adjustment of the solid roller and i dont wanna do that.....i would just rather build the engine to run well and not have to tear into it to check stuff like that periodicly
 

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I think you shoud do a little more research, or get a better idea of solid roller cams for street use. Theres nothing wrong with using a solid roller cam for the street. Especially if its intended and designed for street duty. Plenty of guys have used them, and still do.
 

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i'm new to the whole 351 thing but if you use an early block aren't you limited to running a small circle base cam ?? i 've heard all different answers and i am sorta lost, that's why i just bought a roller block
 

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No, you are not limited to a small base circle cam. You can buy retrofit style lifters that are shorter and have the oil orifice lower on the lifter so they don't pop out of the short lifter bore of the early block.

They are made by crane, crower, comp, and ford. Cost about $500 a set. They are link bar style and do not require the use of a spider or dog bones. you can use all the standard 302 style cams with these.
 

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you can stroke out a 351w to 454.. its pretty out there... but ive seen it done and they sell kits.
definitely the roller block. my motor is limited to about 5k and the power is still on the rise. you can get some sick power out of a naturally aspirated 351. its alot of fun.

and +1 on the small base circle cam.
 
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