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Discussion Starter #1
Howdy guys. I am looking to get a 351w engine to eventually put in my car. I have a couple options. I have the option for a roller block engine and a non roller. I believe the roller block is the better one all around, but just double checking with you guys. My car is daily driver, maybe a run down the strip or two one day.

I can get just the long block or the complete engine. I had planned on just the long block since this would be coming out of a truck, but would it be possible/worthwhile to utilize the EFI components?

This will be a slow build over the next year or so, I'm hoping in the end for a nice stroker with a good amount of power. I see a 408 is a common stroker kit. With the CID kits going up to 427. Would a 427 be too much for a daily driver? I don't rev the motor very high, never over 5k rpms.

Any advice, comments, or suggestions are welcome.

Also, I know the T5 is a weak link, I had planned on an Astro T5. A T56 would be nice, too. But my car is already set up for the T5 so a T56 swap is alot more involved $$$.
 

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Definitely go with a roller cam, whether you get a roller block or use a retrofit kit on an older block. Also see this PSA if you look at F4TE blocks:

Must Read....PSA for Windsor Roller block guys - Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum

The EFI components from a truck block will work just fine, so long as they fit. You can put better heads/cam/intake on it and just have it retuned.

A 408 is the most you can really put in a stock block. The 427 requires a .125 overbore, which typically requires a DART block. I always wanted a 427 stroker just because of the magic number, but in reality a 408 is plenty of power.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Would the truck EFI components fit under a stock hood? I planned to upgrade to the 68 Shelby style hood from Rich eventually.

I also wanted a 427 just for the sake of saying I had one. I'm sure I would be more then happy with a 408w coming from my little 302.

Thanks for the link. Didn't plan on tearing the motor down that far at the pick-n-pull. Dangit. Throw the dice and hope for the best or get an older engie and roller link kit.... :(
 

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Check with the junkyard, mine has a 30 day warranty on engines and everything else, and its pretty cheep to get a 6 month warranty on the engines from them as well. That may be an option, and then when you tear down at your own comfort if there is an issue you can swap it for another
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I read everything I could find on the cracked blocks. There doesn't seem to be any situation ever where that crack spread and caused the end of days everyone is worried about.

I had a 351w roller motor in a Bronco and I beat the crap out of that truck, I can't imagine i'd be any harder on the motor in my Mustang then I was with that truck.

Might jsut be a toss of the dice, we'll see what I find when I go to the pick-n-pull. Hopefully theres no cracks.
 

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I have a 351W block out of a 69 Cougar in my car and it is stroked to a 427. It can be done. I am not running it yet but it was built to be a daily driver. Hopefully I can attest to the reality of this later in the year.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thats good to know. I know the engine will at least need a basic bore, so I'll keep it in mind.

I found JBA makes a set of headers specifically for a 351w in our cars with the Borgenson steering box. They are pricey but if they wont then I guess its worth it. Just need to see if they fit a cable clutch.

These are a hundred dollars cheaper from Summit, just no description:

JBA 6613SJS Mustang Long Tubes Ceramic Borgeson V8 1965-1973

I am just going to focus on getting an engine, getting it built, and getting it in the car. I'll look into EFI after that if I still want it.
 

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Keep in mind you can run a roller cam in the older blocks without the link bars. You just need the dog bone and spiders. That is cheaper and only an issue if you don't install them before taking the block to the machine shop.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Keep in mind you can run a roller cam in the older blocks without the link bars. You just need the dog bone and spiders. That is cheaper and only an issue if you don't install them before taking the block to the machine shop.
You mean tap and drill the block like the later roller blocks? That may be worth looking into. Just eliminate the chance of a cracked block.
 

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A 408 is the most you can really put in a stock block. The 427 requires a .125 overbore, which typically requires a DART block. I always wanted a 427 stroker just because of the magic number, but in reality a 408 is plenty of power.
It's fairly common to do a 4.170 stroke in a stock block. The .125 bore is a big bore stoker, with a 4.00" stroke, so those are two different setups.


Lots of people, do the small bore 427 in a stock block, but the rod to stroke ratio gets a little large, but it can definitely be done with a stock block.

---------- Post added at 11:13 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:10 PM ----------

You mean tap and drill the block like the later roller blocks? That may be worth looking into. Just eliminate the chance of a cracked block.
But keep in mind that you have to run a small base circle cam with that setup. The link bar lifters are better.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I ended up getting a roller block. So cam choice should be pretty open, right?

I see alot of people going with TW heads. Is it worth getting a kit with pistons set up for TW style vs regular style valve? I have read the TW valve orientation is better.

I was looking at this kit, though maybe in a 408 if not the 427:

14847-PS-F427W - Ford 427W Reverse Dome -19.4cc Pro Street Engine Kit

Is there a better place to look? Brands to avoid?
 

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Yes, cam options are open.

I love TW heads. They make the best power, and come with better hardware out of the box, over other major brands (ARP hardware, Ferrea valves). If you're going to buy a stroker kit, and you have TW heads, there's no reason to not get the TW pistons.

That's a good kit, and be sure to get the Total Seal race rings. They use ductile iron with a gapless second, and they're one of the best rings on the market. People overlook rings in a build, and they're one of the most important things in engine efficiency, and efficiency is power. When I switched from Perfect circle rings to the Total Seal rings, I picked up 2 MPH, and took .2 off my ET, with no other changes.


Stick with the 408 in the stock block. The 4.170 stroke is just too much, and the 408 has a great rod to stroke ratio, which has a lot to do with how the engine can make power, and engine longevity.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Ok, 408 it is.

I am really tossing the idea around of EFI on this. @69fastback have you ever thought about EFI on your car?

There are some really nice options out there. The Borla crossram is wicked awesome looking, but at $6500 is way out of my intake manifold budget lol. I was thinking something more traditional like a fox body EFI set-up, but calibrated and sized for the engine of course.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Those look awesome. I really like the look of the 8 stack but jeebus its pricey, though it does have everything minus the fuel pump.

The sidedraft looks nifty, but I don't know if that will supply enough air and fuel for a 408.
 

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Ok, 408 it is.

I am really tossing the idea around of EFI on this. @69fastback have you ever thought about EFI on your car?

There are some really nice options out there. The Borla crossram is wicked awesome looking, but at $6500 is way out of my intake manifold budget lol. I was thinking something more traditional like a fox body EFI set-up, but calibrated and sized for the engine of course.
Nah. Nothing against EFI, but a carb is cheap, easy, and it works.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Been looking at some different intake set-ups. I am liking the Super Victor EFI with the elbow and big ford style throttle body. The intake to the TB is right at $1,000 not including injectors.

Parts list:
Intake
Elbow
Throttle Body
Fuel rails

Figure $300 for a set of injectors.

They have new SBF EFI wiring harnesses for $563 that is made to drop an EFI SBF into a 65-70 Mustang
Wiring harness

Just need a MAF and a calibrated A9L ECM after that, right?

Found a MAF, requires custom tuning, but it is the same size as the Edelbrock TB, 90mm
MAF and housing
 

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Discussion Starter #20
After looking at lots of options for EFI. I think for me I am going to build the engine as I would for a carb and install a FAST set-up, like this:

F.A.S.T. 2.0

They have a slightly smaller and cheaper kit, but I like that look of this kit and the fact that is is capable of supporting more power then I would ever make.

My only other option is to build a fairly stock style set-up using an OEM harness. I don't really like that route. Every other option is mega expensive and I just can't see myself spending that much for what I'm getting, hell a new T56 and my built shortblock cost the same as some of those EFI kits....
 
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