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I Poop Entirely Way Too Much
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Discussion Starter #1
So all this power I cant put to the wheels! The tires light up at 4 grand in 2th, I dont even try and plant it in first.

I def need lower controls arms. I know the HP mega bites are great but are they even made anymore? The website seem to be down. Does relocating the controls arms really help that much? Are there any negatives? I really want somethin adjustable so I can get a nice ride height. Does anyone make relaction bracket for our cars?

Should I do upper control arms or look at somethin like a Panhard bar?

The car is my DD and I wont see the track much since its 2 hours away. I want somethin that drives well and can still kick some ass off the line.
 

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I Poop Entirely Way Too Much
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Discussion Starter #3
What kind of suspension do you have?
 

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November 08 ROTM
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put some DRs on it! But yeah the stock suspension leaves a lot to be desired. Brakes are the first thing that needs to be upgraded at that power level.
+1. before you can go, make sure you can stop.
 

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I Poop Entirely Way Too Much
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Discussion Starter #7
Yes I want to be able to corner fairly well. Id like to keep the price under $500. Im not looking for a completely new setup but somethin improved over what I have. And I plan to get DRs in the spring.
 

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Priest of the Car Gods
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Yes I want to be able to corner fairly well. Id like to keep the price under $500. Im not looking for a completely new setup but somethin improved over what I have. And I plan to get DRs in the spring.
$500 isn't going to get you from stock to "cornering fairly well". It'll definitely fix some issues, though.

Your main concern appears to be a lack of traction, so we can ignore the entire front end of the car.

I'd look at some good LCAs, preferably ones with at least one spherical busing (doesn't matter which side, I prefer axle-side, others prefer chassis-side, and I haven't seen empirical data to say either way).

You don't have the budget to get rid of the UCAs, so I'd look at replacing them. You definitely want to go spherical bushing on the axle side on aftermarket UCAs. You can get away with poly in both sides of your LCAs if your budget insists, but don't cheap out here with poly. If you know how to adjust the UCAs, I'd get adjustables. Elsewise, I'd still get adjustables, and just set them to stock length.

Assuming you don't have to have either of those shipped, you're looking at $200-$250 for the LCAs, and $180 for the UCAs, leaving you with another $100 or so. I'd spend it on the best front brake pads you can get. Porterfields are my preference (can only get direct from their website), Hawks and EBCs are both good as well. Don't waste your money on parts house pads.
 

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its about 70% tire 30% susp. in your case



the arms upper/lower will help but at 400hp your just over powering the tires, get some good arms, have the torque boxes welded/supported and throw a sticky tire on there and then you will help the traction issue
 

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true.. just get some good used mickey's
 

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I would say to go with either griggs,southside,or mm adjustable lca's. I run the southside and they stopped quite a bit of hop.
Tires i would go with bfg or mt for a dr. Stay away from the nitto as a track tire. Mine hook for ****.

What are some opinions on the m&h cheater?? I can get a set delivered for 120 and was thinking of going that route.
 

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im over 400rwhp and have stock suspension except for BBK lowering springs. My 305 Nittos grab without a problem. 1st is not going to happen but 2nd does pretty good. Cant complain really except first gear is a waste. LOL. I think its mostly tire in your case too!
 

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Boost gets you laid
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yup, you gotta be careful though. i ripped my upper torque box out with stock suspension and around 400rwhp.. if you want to corner and get good traction you can't go wrong with a torque arm/panhard bar combo. its spendy but worth it. i have MM HD torque arm, MM HD lowers, and MM Panhard bar. its hard to break traction cornering, the front end gives out before the rear even comes close. even acceleration got a lot better, it hooks way better than stock but with the 18's it still spins 1st gear and 2nd if you shift hard. that setup will cost you around 2k though, but you'll never have to worry about your rear susp again.
 

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bob one more post and you hit 2000!
 

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Boost gets you laid
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woohoo!!! finally there after almost 3 years! lol :drink
 

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yup, you gotta be careful though. i ripped my upper torque box out with stock suspension and around 400rwhp.. if you want to corner and get good traction you can't go wrong with a torque arm/panhard bar combo. its spendy but worth it. i have MM HD torque arm, MM HD lowers, and MM Panhard bar. its hard to break traction cornering, the front end gives out before the rear even comes close. even acceleration got a lot better, it hooks way better than stock but with the 18's it still spins 1st gear and 2nd if you shift hard. that setup will cost you around 2k though, but you'll never have to worry about your rear susp again.


BOB do you have pictures or can you get pictures? Jazzer has been talking me into this Rear Suspenion Setup and i really want to do it. how much did you spend? Between this and my engine build, i need to just win the lotto already...




OH and OP didn't you blow your motor?
 

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im over 400rwhp and have stock suspension except for BBK lowering springs. My 305 Nittos grab without a problem. 1st is not going to happen but 2nd does pretty good. Cant complain really except first gear is a waste. LOL. I think its mostly tire in your case too!
But with your setup you need a little spin for helping spool the sc??
Mine seems to trap higher with wheel spin off the line.
Nitto arent bad for the street but you've got to be really good to get decent 60' at the track.
 

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I Poop Entirely Way Too Much
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Discussion Starter #20
$500 isn't going to get you from stock to "cornering fairly well". It'll definitely fix some issues, though.

Your main concern appears to be a lack of traction, so we can ignore the entire front end of the car.

I'd look at some good LCAs, preferably ones with at least one spherical busing (doesn't matter which side, I prefer axle-side, others prefer chassis-side, and I haven't seen empirical data to say either way).

You don't have the budget to get rid of the UCAs, so I'd look at replacing them. You definitely want to go spherical bushing on the axle side on aftermarket UCAs. You can get away with poly in both sides of your LCAs if your budget insists, but don't cheap out here with poly. If you know how to adjust the UCAs, I'd get adjustables. Elsewise, I'd still get adjustables, and just set them to stock length.

Assuming you don't have to have either of those shipped, you're looking at $200-$250 for the LCAs, and $180 for the UCAs, leaving you with another $100 or so. I'd spend it on the best front brake pads you can get. Porterfields are my preference (can only get direct from their website), Hawks and EBCs are both good as well. Don't waste your money on parts house pads.
I appreciate the help. I know I cant do the front end right now, I just dont want to set the rear up drag only. I dont plan on doin it all at once either but I wanna get it all planned out so I dont have to change anything down the road.

its about 70% tire 30% susp. in your case



the arms upper/lower will help but at 400hp your just over powering the tires, get some good arms, have the torque boxes welded/supported and throw a sticky tire on there and then you will help the traction issue
Tires will comin, prolly Nitto DRs since I wint make it to the track much.

yup, you gotta be careful though. i ripped my upper torque box out with stock suspension and around 400rwhp.. if you want to corner and get good traction you can't go wrong with a torque arm/panhard bar combo. its spendy but worth it. i have MM HD torque arm, MM HD lowers, and MM Panhard bar. its hard to break traction cornering, the front end gives out before the rear even comes close. even acceleration got a lot better, it hooks way better than stock but with the 18's it still spins 1st gear and 2nd if you shift hard. that setup will cost you around 2k though, but you'll never have to worry about your rear susp again.
Im gonna be getting the troque boxes welded in the spring too. I just checked em yesterday when I was tightening my exhaust so they are good.

I was leaning towards a Watts link setup. Its about the same price as doin a torque arm and panhard bar and should perform a lil better.
 
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