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Hello, I have a T45 that I am going to swap into my car that I got from a buddy of mine. He said the transmission grinds first when its cold but once it warms up its fine, or maybe his fluid was bad and when I install I should run Royal Purple Synchromax?
He reused the bellhousing so I bought another one from eBay which came with no bolts to bolt to the actual transmission.

My questions are, does anyone know what bolts go from the bellhousing to the trans? I know their metric because my SAE bolts do not fit, and is there any precautions I should take care of before throwing this T45 in?

Just mentioning, I do need a flywheel, clutch, clutch cable, FRPP roller pilot bearing, clutch fork, firewall adjuster,T45 yoke not sure if I'm missing anything.

What I do have so far is the crossmember, T45, bellhousing, and have a 5 speed ECU as well.

One other thing, I'm pretty sure i have an 8 bolt crank, but not 100% sure if the autos came with the 6 bolt. Car is a 2000 4.6 4r70w
:dunno
Thanks in advance!
 

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Dont know any other answers but I do know your car came with a stock 6 bolt crank. 8 bolts are the 5 speeds
this is incorrect.

windsors use 8bolt and romeos use 6bolt. my 04 had a 5spd and since it was a romeo it was a 6bolt.

swapped to an auto from a 99 (windsor) and his was 8bolt.

OP you should have an 8bolt crank
 

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this is incorrect.

windsors use 8bolt and romeos use 6bolt. my 04 had a 5spd and since it was a romeo it was a 6bolt.

swapped to an auto from a 99 (windsor) and his was 8bolt.

OP you should have an 8bolt crank
Never knew that. Thank you for correcting me, I thought the only difference was in the heads
 

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You'll also need a t-45 trans harness, 5 speed pedal assembly, and possibly a SpeedCal and driveshaft for a manual trans. You didn't need the PCM, could've used the auto and had the shift points turned off. And you definitely have an 8 bolt flywheel.
 

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Yup, just gotta put in the wrench time.

Sent from my Desire HD using AutoGuide.Com Free App
 

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So. I just purchased a parts car (early 01 gt with very minor front end damage) a few weeks ago with a perfectly good t-45. I have a 99 gt auto I am going to start the swap in a few days. Anyone know if there is an actual write up on the swap anywhere? Pretty sure I purchased everything I am going to need for the swap but wanna be sure.

Items I purchased:
- New lower and upper shift boot (old ones on parts car were destroyed)
- UPR adjustable clutch cable, double hook quadrant, and firewall adjuster
- New ford racing 8 bolt flywheel
- New king cobra stage 2 10.5" clutch pack
- New Clutch fork, tob, and pilot bearing
- New bellhousing to block steal spacer
- All new bolts for starter, bellhousing, driveshaft, flywheel, pressure plate
- Used and cleaned up t-45
- Used driveshaft
- Used shift assembly
- Used pedal assembly (new pedal covers and quadrant)

I cannot seem to find a dust fork cover anywhere for this transmission. I know a lot of people just run without it but when I dropped the tranny in the parts car there was a good amount of dirt and crud inside the bellhousing.

The only questions I really have about the swap are... Using the manual transmission harness, does it plug up the same way as the 4r70w? Am I going to run into a speedo issue on a 99-early01? I still haven't fully decided on which transmission fluid to use just yet, any suggestions?

let me know what you guys think and thanks!
 

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ABOUT THE T45. I've had a few of them opened up and just did another fully built T45... these trans will hold up very reliably behind 600rwhp if the right modifications are done and they shift like a dream at any RPM.

1st things first - DO NOT USE SYNCHROMAX, SYNCHROMESH OR ANY OTHER SYNCHO ANTHING OIL. All T45s ever made cam from the factory with a paper type synchro. Synchromesh, synchromax will destroy that synchros over time. I know people do it and get away with it but eventually the syncro material will fall apart. The ones that last awhile are actually because the material is already so glazed it doesn't absorb the oil.

This a picture of a factory synchro that is a paper material vs a new carbon fiber syncro. The synchro on the top is factory and the bottom is carbon fiber and FAR superior. The transmission will shift smoother and faster with the bottom synchro style in it.




Next thing is oil - Lets continue that topic and I will give you my opinion and some real world experiences.... I DO NOT RUN SYNTHETIC OIL IN ANY GEARBOX... that includes our 10 million dollar machines at work that operator at very high speeds... no synthetic oil, i dont run it in rear axles or transmissions in my cars... This is because synthetic oil is great right.. its awesome stuff it last longer, you get better MPG and more HP (so marginal you will never know it though). But synthetic oils do by having a coefficient of friction - that basically means they are more slippery. Now this works great in newer engines but not so much in gearboxes and especially manual transmissions. This is because the way a rear axle or manual transmission lubricates is by oil splash... the gears get oil on them and sling it around. When the oil is more slippery it doesnt stick to the gears well enough to sling it around as much... you end up with having less actual lubricant (Oil) on the gears. This is the exact reason why many people will complain their transmission being louder or whining a bit after an oil change. Its because less oil is sticking to the gear so some of the cushion is lost between the gears which allows them to whine.

The other bad thing about synthetic oil in a transmission is the synchros. The way a synchro works is by friction. That black material on the rings in the picture above is made to grip the gear during shifting. When it grips the gear it SYNCHRONIZES the speed of the current gear and the next gear which allows easy shifting. Now if you use a more slippery oil what do you think will happen to the performance of that synchro? Your right it typically will not shift as well because its not synchronizing as well because it cant grip the gear as well to speed match it with the current gear.

My recommendation, what I use and what I've found works the best from alot of testing is just the standard dex/merc you find on the shelf. Look at the label and try to find one that is not synthetic or semi synthetic also try to buy one without friction additive.... DO NOT buy the newest MERC 5 oil because its a full synthetic and will not work as well. I usually buy the old school tradition valvoline dex/merc type oil. The trans is the quietest with that oil and shifts the best.

Next thing is the grinding. Thats a symptom of two things either improper clutch adjustment or the synchros are just getting worn out. Your best bet is to use the oil I mentioned above, set the clutch correctly and just try it. If its not up to par then rebuild the transmission.

I hope this helps and sorry for my spelling I did all of this on my phone and I've been awake 25 hours. Night guys.
 
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you are more than likely going to have to cut the tunnel on the floor. The shifter location sits farther back on a 5 speed than it does on an auto. Also when you put clutch pedals in there are two plugs under the carpet that have jumpers in. You will need to plug them into your switches on the clutch and break pedals or your car will not start and CC will not work.
 

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yeah, I performed the auto to manual swap last weekend on my 99gt. It went suprisingly well... Hardest part was cutting the tunnel and maybe removing the rear main seal.. Figured while I was back there.. The only problem I have had with my transmission since I did the swap is that occasionally, I have to cycle through second gear to be able to shift into reverse without some grinding. What do you guys think the problem is?
 
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