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4v heads

2K views 25 replies 8 participants last post by  WickedSnake00 
#1 ·
Hello, I'm considering trying to find some 4v heads for my 02, and I've seen there's diffrent year cobra, and mark heads. Which ones will work for me though?

I tried searching and couldn't find anything
 
#11 ·
"C" tumble port heads started in 99. If you want the best C head, look for navigator or late model cobra heads. I believe the higher thread count heads were w late 04 revision. Count the spark plug threads before you jump on a set. The 9 thread heads are fine but are prone to eating plugs!
 
#6 ·
Would this be everything?

Heads, cams, valves etc

Timing chain
Timing cover
Injectors.
Intake
Headers/ manifolds
Valve cover
Throttle body.




I just want to find a decent set, pick them up and re do them, then peice together a eaton swap and install, I know I would still have a iron block but that's fine
 
#15 ·
^^^ what he said . B heads also pretty much limit your intake manifold choices to the 96-98 Cobra or 97-98 Mark8 plus they add issues with deciding what to do with the imrc's .
 
#14 ·
Your best bet might be to get an 04/05 aviator motor. The 04/05 heads are the best as they have full threads for spark plugs, revised internal cooling and of course outflow pre 03 heads on intake and exhaust. A good set of 04/05 heads might close in on the price of the aviator motor so you are possibly gaining an aluminum block and misc 4v swap parts for cheap.
 
#17 ·
If you don't have your heart set on an eaton swap then there is nothing really wrong with a b head swap , they flow like a mofo & no plug or head tick issues . I would do imrc delete plates and a centri with the gen2 mark intake .
 
#18 ·
I personally don't think eaton swaps are worth the $. you can get a centri set up all while keeping your factory intake mani's. To prevent blowing plugs, there isn't really much you can do. I was just cruising down the road and an AWFUL miss came up on my car and started throwing check engine lights. I was extremely confused and was extremely worried my built motor just went in the ground. Got home and found it had puked the plug in cylinder 1, under normal driving. All you can do is make sure you give the motor adequate time to cool down before changing plugs. That's the only preventative measure I know of. It seems to be luck of the draw with them but most people don't seem to have the problem...BUT there are quite a few that do.
 
#20 ·
Just about everything you need to know about heads:
Ford modular SOHC & DOHC tech & specifications

I personally don't think eaton swaps are worth the $. you can get a centri set up all while keeping your factory intake mani's.
I don't see the problem with Eaton swaps. Mine was a powdercoated ported Eaton with all sorts of goodies for about the same price as a centri. Torque comes on very fast as well.

Well from what I gathered, the b heads, and all parts will cost me + or - around $1500, but I would like to cam it, saw a bolt on mach 1s, with cams, making 360-380 at the ground. The wiring will be a peice of cake
You can always yank the C heads off a Continental. You can't really use the block, but the heads are good. If you are swapping going with an aluminum block rather than just swapping heads would be nice.

I also advise if you're looking for boost to upgrade internals while you're at it.
 
#21 ·
I did actually find a set from a continental on eBay, but there a earlyer model, so that's why I had asked about them exiting the head


I kinda wanna keep the orginal block in it, so that's why I was thinking just heads. The eaton most likely would be few years down the road, so I would skip internals and just go for a n/a beast for now (besides internals, just cams and bolt ons)
 
#22 ·
That was actually my build plan for a "poor man's termi." Some Continental C heads on my existing Romeo shortblock, thow on an Eaton swap, and it's almost the same. Your heads are a little more restrictive and you have to keep it under 450 due to the rotating assembly, but it would be a blast. Instead I went a little crazy and went way bigger than I ever planned on.

Keep in mind there's a big combustion chamber difference in 2v and 4v heads.

The dish on a stock GT is -17/18cc IIRC. That's good for ~9.5:1 with a 2v head, but with a 4v head it drops to about 8.6:1. That's fine and dandy with an Eaton, in fact it's the same as the 03/04 Cobra, but it is going to blow NA.
 
#25 ·
If I recall, Timeserts can be installed with the head on the motor (not that I would trust it to do it without any shavings entering the cylinder though). I think they're a few hundred though.

There's 3 ways of correcting the problem, 1 being helicoil (not my mehod of choice), the timesert, and another (dont remember the name). I believe the timesert is the one that is Ford approved though.
 
#26 ·
Ford actually approved a "lockstitch" method for dealerships. It's the most robust, and naturally the most expensive.

I got the Timesert kit for modular motors for around $250 used. The inserts are pretty tough.

And it's actually not bad for shavings, assuming you take your time and pack the **** out of the flutes with grease. I caught all but one shaving, and that one I got out with a shop vac duct taped to some hose that I shoved down the spark plug bore. :lmao

If you ever do need inserts though I'm willing to rent my kit out. It'd be a hell of a lot cheaper than taking it somewhere.
 
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