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UNOH Suspension Enthusiast
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
so here's the engine. Its a 5.0 out of a 93 f150. It doesn't know it yet, but its being transplanted.



Ive got a 96 mustang 3.8 and thats getting very old very fast. I've been pricing around and I think this is going to be the best way for me to get the v8. my plans are to put a forged stroker rotating assembly in it, new heads, intake, and convert it over into a carbureted engine. DSS Racing has most of the parts I need to build the engine.

as far as transmission and rear end i'm still looking for a totaled 94-95 5.0.

anyone have any 2 cents to add?
 

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What's your goals with the car? Just a V8 with some more oomph? A full forged rotating assembly in a stock block is kind of overkill for the block. I'd rethink that part, but need more info on what you want advice on if you are looking for more help/criticism.
 

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UNOH Suspension Enthusiast
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
sorry about that. guess i didnt think about it. I eventually plan to have it supercharged. Im hoping to drop my compression down to 9.5-1. I dont really think I should go much lower then that. If I could I would like to make 450hp to the crank. Its never going to be a drag car. Just a weekend warrior, and something to take to the american muscle car show lol.


oh and... I'm going to be able to deck the heads, line bore it, bore it, hone it, and all through my school for free.
 

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I wouldn't piss with a forged crank for those numbers. Maybe a better rod and forged pistons. Not sure why you don't want to drop lower than 9.5 on the compression either. Stock Mustangs with the 5.0 are 9:1. There are benefits to more boost/lower compression and also higher compression/less boost, so middle of the road isn't a bad choice. Just wondering what your reasoning behind it is? Also, camshaft choice plays an important roll in how your compression really is. I'm not an engine builder, nor am I a camshaft guy, I'm just simply here to spew relelvant info on this topic, lol. Dynamic CR
 

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UNOH Suspension Enthusiast
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
wow.. I didnt know the compression on those engines were that low to begin with. I just thought 9.5 would be low enough to be streetable without going too low. Guess thats what i get for assuming. lol. thank you sir.


I was looking at going with this rotating assembly..
http://www.dssracing.com/306_SX_rotating_kit_p/ra306sx.htm
 

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High(er) compression, wrong cam, and moderate boost = not pump gas friendly. Just looking out for ya. Good luck, and ask questions as you go!
 

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If it's a now and later kind of build and I wasn't looking for more than 450 or so out of it, I would go 9.5 too, if that makes you feel good :D I would just change cams to get the best one with both setups.
 

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At the crank, a decent h/c/i and a baby blower. A tune of course to tie it all in together, or stock junk with more boost. Boost is a cureall like nitrous. 450 crank n/a is harder, hahaha. Just don't forget the supporting mods! Fuel system, injectors, tb, maf, exhaust.
 

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Easy! I would do a compression check and if it's good, run it! 7qt pan isn't necessary, but I'll have one on my next build. Besides more oil to prevent starvation under extreme conditions (which don't occur on the street), the extra capacity helps with oil temps.
 

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My question is why would you want to go to all this trouble of swapping? Only reason I can think is that the car has sentimental value. I would think you could sell your V6 car and pick up a V8 SN95 for a lot cheaper than what you are planning not to mention all the money you will save on asprin since you won't have the headache of a swap to do
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
sweet. Im looking at the price of things and its looking like $1500-$2000 for heads, $650 for the blow through carb, $95 for the whole gasket kit, $300 for the intake, $350 for the headers, and Im not sure on the price of the blower lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
My question is why would you want to go to all this trouble of swapping? Only reason I can think is that the car has sentimental value. I would think you could sell your V6 car and pick up a V8 SN95 for a lot cheaper than what you are planning not to mention all the money you will save on asprin since you won't have the headache of a swap to do

you hit the nail on the head. Its my first car, and me and my father built it. and we have a decent enough shop that swaping shouldn't be to big of an issue
 

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Ok that's cool I wish I woulda kept some of my first vehicles just for that reason. Hey it'd be cool to one day pass you first car down to your 16 year old
 

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Depending on your flavor for heads, I recommmend a Trickflow 170 head. They are available in 2 different chamber volumes to help you acheive a closer to your goal compression ratio without milling heads and custom pistons. Bang for the buck can't be beat!
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I'm looking around and this compression ratio stuff is starting to confuse me. Im having a hard time finding the origional specs on the engine. I know stock compression ratio was 9.0-1. I need to know what the stock stroke of the engine is. I'm assuming its 3"?
 
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