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I bought my 2000 Mustang GT last September, This is my first Modular motor and i am a little unsure as to what oil I should use in it. I bought it from a dealer in Chicago and before I drove it 4hrs home I had them change the black nasty and low oil. I went to a local parts store and bought Lucus 10w30 for them to put in it. I didn't notice at the time that the oil fill cap is labeled 5w20. That seems really light for a V8. Anyways, what do you all suggest?

It is about ready to hit 100k, What weight would be best and would it be ok to switch to synthetic at this point?
 

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Thanks for the link Rockwell29,
Thinking about going with 4qts 5w20 Mobile 1 full syn and adding 1qt syn Lucas stabilizer. However I will respect everyones input.
 

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I would run at least 6 quarts since my 03 calls for 6, and has the same oil pan as your 00. The only difference is our dip sticks.

Since I've owned my car I've ran 7 quarts, what swayed me to add the extra quart was the oil pan pictures on SVTP.
 

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Thanks for the link Rockwell29,
Thinking about going with 4qts 5w20 Mobile 1 full syn and adding 1qt syn Lucas stabilizer. However I will respect everyones input.
Sounds like a plan and some may give you flack about mixing regular with syth but hell that makes synthetic blend to be honest. I myself run motorcraft synthetic blend 5qt 5w20 + 1qt 5w30.
 

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6 qts of Mobil 1 full synthetic 5-20 buy it buy the case on sale at Costco FTW!
 

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I guess Im the only one but I run 10w 30 mobile one fully synthetic. I have well over 100k and just got back from a trip to NC about 500 miles both ways with no problem. I have used 10w 30 in all the cars Ive had and never had problems.
 

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30 weight will space the bearings out and cause internal leaks around the bearings which causes oil pressure drops...people usually up the weight when it starts to burn oil

adding too much oil is bad too, causes foaming and can wear down parts faster
 

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Before there was multi-grade oil, we ran 5w as breakin oil, 10w in the winter and 20w or 30w in the summer. The larger the number the thicker the oil. I believe the viscosity is measured at 212*. The thicker oil gave better protection when the motor was hot but it was so thick at cold tempatures (below zero) that sometimes the battery couldn't turn over the motor. If it did start you had very little oil flow until the car warmed up. This was also back when 60,000 miles was consider a lot of miles on a motor.

This is a simplified explanation but with multi-grade oil, the first number indicates cold start viscosity, the second number indicates hot motor viscosity. You should run either 5w20 or 5w30. You really shouldn't run 10w-anything in our cars. It limits the oil's cold start protection. I had an old Chevy truck that required 5w30 oil. It had a lifter that tapped during cold starts during the winter. I made the mistake of putting 10w30 oil in it. It made the lifter knock louder and longer. To get better cold start protection, a lot of people have started using 0w30 oil.

I use 6 quarts of full-synthetic 5w30.
 

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the 4.6 calls for 5w20 bc the tolerences are so much tighter, it needs a thinner oil. Theres a reason the factory posts the oil requirements. Its not just pulled out of their ass.
 

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Too Soon, Junior!
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Uh oh, not this again. There is evidence on both sides of the argument, but I wouldn't use 20 weight oil to lube a screw. If I remember correctly, the Australia 4.6 2v calls for 5W-30 since the emissions penalties are different and 30 weight offers better protection.

Any Honda or Mitsubishi 4cyl performance engine would have much more strict tolerances than our modular motors, and a lot of them call for 30 weight.

This is an interesting read: http://www.paladinmicro.com/documents/synLube01.htm
 

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Ran 6 quarts of 5w20 Castrol GTX before the supercharger. Now run 7 quarts of 5w30. The oil pan can hold 9 quarts.
 

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the 4.6 calls for 5w20 bc the tolerences are so much tighter, it needs a thinner oil. Theres a reason the factory posts the oil requirements. Its not just pulled out of their ass.
Thank you!!!

Why do you guys feel the need to change what the factory says? Do you think you are smarter than the engineers that test this stuff?

5W 20. Thats it. Period.

Additives are all JUNK.

The government has sued AND WON nearly every oil additive company as being nothing more than Snake Oil, and they do NOT live up to their bogus claims.

Do a search and you will see hundreds of court documents on oil additives.

READ HERE:

Say NO to Aftermarket oil additives! Read about the lawsuits for STP, Prolong, Duralube, Shell and Castrol
 

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Too Soon, Junior!
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Unfortunately a lot of times Engineering standards are overshadowed by politics. With modern oil and engines though, you won't notice any dramatic difference between 20 and 30 in terms of power and wear protection if your engine is under 100k miles and healthy.
 
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