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Discussion Starter #341
I used stock 1966 mounts. You should be able to use 1965 mounts as well if you have a scoop or cowl. The 1965 mounts sit too high for a stock hood.

Those are the exact headers I used. They should fit, but not much, less than 1/4" at each shock tower. If they do not fit, it is possible the shock towers have sagged. You can spread them back apart by lifting the car in the middle so there is no weight on the tires, and using a port-a-power to push them apart. After they are apart you will need to install an export brace and Monte Carlo bar to keep them there.
 

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Motor mounts

Thanks for your help. Your project is really helping me with mine. I am installing a 351w into my 65 mustang coupe. Ive had the motor mocked in the engine bay and it looks impossible to get those headers in but i guess it works. :) I'm only 15 and this is really a big project. I'm doing a full restoration. I wish I bought one as nice as yours but hey, a mustangs a mustang. Thanks for your help. I'm sure I will be asking more questions as I get further into my project.
 

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Discussion Starter #347
The Nose Knows

So the nose pictured above is one of Rich's from Mustangs to Fear. Rich's kit is the only kit I know of for a 1965/1966 that actually makes the front of the car longer, just like a 1967/1968 kit.

I had really been wrestling with the decision on whether to wait for Rich's kit to become available or not for a few reasons:

  1. I already have money invested in an R-Type valence and a fiberglass hood, I would have to replace both to use Rich's kit
  2. I really needed to put the front of the car on so that I can finish fitting the panels and start blocking the car. I needed to start that this weekend, so waiting for Rich's kit to get to production was going to set me back weeks or maybe months
  3. I knew I wanted a longer nose, but I didn't know if it would improve the look enough to justify replacing all my stuff and waiting
So after pestering him enough, Rich sent me a message one day telling me that he had an off-spec prototype nose that I could try to get to fit if I wanted to. He made sure I understood it wouldn't bolt up as easily as he expects his products to (duh it's an off-spec reject!!), but it would allow me to move along with my schedule.

When the new nose arrive on Friday it was like christmas!! Four days early!!!





This shot here is of my stock length hood with the MTF nose, you see that the MTF nose is 4" longer at the hood. It is actually 6" in some places:





These shots here show how dramatic the effect of the longer nose is:





So going back to my origional list in case anyone else finds themselves in a similar place:

  1. I already have money invested in an R-Type valence and a fiberglass hood, I would have to replace both to use Rich's kit. WHO CARES IT LOOKS FREAKING AWESOME!!
  2. I really needed to put the front of the car on so that I can finish fitting the panels and start blocking the car. I needed to start that this weekend, so waiting for Rich's kit to get to production was going to set me back weeks or maybe months. WHO CARES IT LOOKS FREAKING AWESOME!! IT'S WORTH THE WAIT!!
  3. I knew I wanted a longer nose, but I didn't know if it would improve the look enough to justify replacing all my stuff and waiting. YES! YES! YES
 

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Discussion Starter #348
Fiberglass Fitting

Rich made a big deal about how bad the fit of this nose was going to be..

Well all I can say is that bottom half fit better than the Mustangs Unlimited R-Type valence, and the upper section didn't fit any worse than the repop headlight doors from CJPP.

So I think it should be fair to say, that the amount of work I put into fitting this nose could be comparable to the amount of work someone else would have to put into any kit that is inferior to Mustangs to Fear.

The first step was to get the nose on so that I could check the fit, this required getting the 3 studs on the back of the nose into 3 holes on my fenders. But there were two problems with that:



  1. My fender only has two holes
  2. The studs were all crooked
The first one was easy enough solve, I have lots of drill bits :)

The second one wound up being fairly easy as well. I just used to pairs of channel locks, one at the base, one at the top, to bend the studs until they were fairly straight.

Then I made a template out of cardboard to see how the studs would line up with the two existing holes, and give me a guide for placing the third hole:



After applying the drill liberally to the fenders, I was able to slide the nose in place. The two bottoms holes on both sides needed to be a little larger to the inside, but I left them as they were, because it was allowing me to wiggle the nose in, and then it was tight enough to stay in place while I looked at things.

The biggest issue was that it was too wide on both sides. At the top near the buckets, it was too wide by more than the thickness of the fiberglass edge (It was hard to capture this with a camera):





The bottom edge is not such a big deal, you can bend and flex the fender to get it to fit, and even if you can't get it all the way there, you can add some fiberglass to the back of the nose, and then sand down the outside to make it smaller. The top is another issue, I can't add any fiberglass to the back side because the headlight bucket is in the way, and I can't sand down even with the fender because I will sand away the entire fiberglass edge.

Now It was bout 11:30 at night by time I got to this point, and I was thinking I was either going to have to do a lot of sanding and building back up with fiberglass, or I was going to have to feather my fenders to match the nose. Luckily I decided to go to bed and worry about the the next day, because both of those were baaaaaaaaaaad ideas :)

Saturday morning I had an epiphany, if the nose was too wide, I should make the car wider. Although the fenders were as far out as they would go, I was able to slot the holes in the fender along the top of the apron, to allow me to move each fender out about 1/8". Thankfully moving the front of the fenders out didn't affect the fitment with the doors enough to notice with the naked eye.

After moving the fenders out, now the nose fits really good along the sides. It is a little wide in a few spots, but only by about 1/16", so I will be able to sand it back flush and taper it:









The exception to that above statement about fitting great along the sides is the bottom drivers side.



However this is the second valence I've had that didn't fit right on the bottom drivers corner, and It is even the second fender I've had that problem with. I'm pretty sure the car has been hit on the front drivers side, which is causing this issue. My plan is to build up the backside of the nose, and then sand it down flush with the fender and taper :(

After the holidays, I'll start to worry about how the top edge fits.
 

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Discussion Starter #350
That looks really good! I may have to look at MustangtoFear's offering for the 67-68 body.
If you buy any body kits, get them from MTF. The initial cost is not much more, and it will save you hundreds of hours of work getting it to fit. Oh, and you cannot possibly find better customer service anywhere.
 

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Discussion Starter #351
Getting Nosey

After looking at the nose a little more, I realized that the drivers side was sitting about 1/8" too high. I slotted the holes in the front of the fender, and moved the nose down, and that fixed the problem with fitment at the bottom.

MTF leaves a nice lip on the back of the nose so that you can shave away to fit your fender exactly. However it is nearly impossible to get it perfect. To get a flush fit, I taped up the fender with masking tape, then slathered long-haired fiberglass body filler (kitty hair) on the back of the nose, and pulled it tight, squeezing out the kitty hair.



I wait for the kitty hair to get tacky, then take some 24 grit paper on a block, and shave away all the excess.

Once I had the fender sitting nice and flush, I needed address the fitment around the edges. I was between 1/8 and 1/16 low on the top, and less than a 1/16 narrow on the side of the light, and less than a 1/16 wide at the bottom.

Since I needed less than 1/8, I felt I would be okay building up with some kitty hair rather than using fiberglass mat and resin. If I had been over 1/8 or closer to 1/4, I would have broken out the fiberglass.

I really don't like the kitty hair, you can't take a putty knife and make a nice smooth swipe with it, because the fiberglass strands pull it all over the place. I just had to kind of goop it on, and then sand it back down:



Oh, and its a royal pain to sand as well. I wound up with much more than I needed, and it took me about 6 hours to sand it all down using a DA and 80 grit pads:



The kitty hair is not very smooth at all once sanded down, it is full of pock marks and pin holes so I applied a skim coat of lightweight body filler:



and then blocked it off with some 100 grit and durablocks:



Next I have to fill in the divots for the bottom fog lights, because I won't be installing them. After I finish the tail lights, I will epoxy the entire car so that is one color, and see what body work I have missed.

















 

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Discussion Starter #354
Bumper Cars

Today I decided to tackle my rear bumper. I had a brand new repo from Mustang Unlimited, and surprisingly it fit very well. Side to side it lined up almost exactly with my quarter panel extensions, and it appears to be very straight with no waviness at all. However, the ends of it left a large gap between the bumper and the quarter panel extensions, almost 3/4" :eek:



I also wanted to eliminate the bolts for mounting the bumper for a smooth look. I am going to be painting the bumper body color, so I don't have to worry about getting the chrome fixed where I monkey with it.

I started out with the bolts. It is important to note, that if you weld both bolts in without the bracket, you won't be able to get the bracket on. Luckily I caught myself before I made this mistake.

First I sanded off the chrome everywhere I intened to weld with some 24 grit paper:



Next I put in the top bolt, taped it from the backside to hold it in, and then covered the threads with tape to protect them from mig splatter:



I tacked it in (yes I know I got way too much on there, it took me forever to file it down enough to get the bracket it on)



Then I put the bracket in, inserted the bottom bolt, and tacked it in through the slot in the bracket:



Then I flipped it over, ground off the big round bolt, and ran a line around the square bolt edge that was left:



Grind smooth, repeat on opposite side:



YAY NO BOLTS!!



To close the gap on the sides, I decided I would just build it up with the mig gun. I needed about 1/2", so I just went at it, building two beads wide along each edge. I switched sides after each layer to let allow the weld to cool for a bit. All told it took me about 45 minutes to build up 1/2" on each side. Probably faster than it would have taken me to go find some metal, measure, cut, and weld.







Grind smooth:



Add some long strand fiberglass reinforced body filler to help smooth out and build the tip a little:



Then sand the kitty hair smooth, and apply a skim coat of body filler, and feather. I'm missing some pictures there because the phone had to make a trip to the charger. Final result:





Took me about 10 hours total, but I did get to work on some other things while I was letting things cool/dry/harden.
 

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Discussion Starter #356
The wife and kids are gone to the in-laws, so I've been looking forward to getting some serious time in on the car. Unfortunately it has been drizzling rain for 3 days. It is so humid, even inside the garage my sandpaper is softer than kleenex. I tried doing a little sanding, but it was a lost cause. I decided I would go ahead and tape up all the windows for primer, but they kept fogging up. I would wipe them dry, and after 30 seconds they would be too wet for tape to stick. So I gave up and started building a mini-booth for spraying primer:

 

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Discussion Starter #357
One of the things I want to do is de-chrome the exterior of the car. I really need to pull the rear quarter windows and the vent windows and have them dipped, then paint them. But that just doesn't fit with the schedule. So I'm going to paint them on the car, and in a few years after the car has been running and WAP have built back up, I"ll pull them out and do it right. For now I just scuffed everything up with 80 grit, tacked it off, and hit it with 3 coats of epoxy primer, and then 3 coats of single stage charcoal that I used for the engine bay parts:











 

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Discussion Starter #359
Painting an assembled car is a pain in the rear. It takes forever to tape everything up. Front and back glass inside and out, headliners, dash, engine, wheels etc. I laid two coats of epoxy primer on the car this weekend. I did a crappy job, lots of runs to sand out. Guess I need lots of practice.















 
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