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Discussion Starter #581
Took the car on the interstate today for the 1st time since driving 14 hours back from Tennessee. Overall it almost perfect. Temperatures, Oil Pressure, Voltage all perfect for the full 3 hour drive. Only problem was the AC cut out about half way here (Yes we still need AC the week before Thanksgiving). Test light showed I was getting a 12V signal to the safety switch, but not to the compressor, so I started checking around and found a fitting that had shook itself loose. Oil all around it. It will probably be Wednesday, maybe Friday before I can have the system evacuated. Given how humid it is I desperately hope I don't have any damage to the system by time I get that done.

 

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Discussion Starter #583
Today I had to install a new radiator. The one I had been using was a HUGE griffin that I had gotten for free. So free right? Make it work. But it barely fit, even after I cut up my battery tray, and there was no room for my overflow tank, and it was ugly. Finally it got a hole in one of the tubes where it rubbed up against the radiator support (because it was to big to install properly). This time I went with something designed to be a little more stock. The unit I went with is an American Eagle Aluminum unit from fleabay ($199.95 shipped). It is specified for a 1967 - 1970 Ford Mustang with 390 for 428. Normally the FE radiator had an outlet on the drivers side, but AE had one with a passengers side inlet. The other big plus to the swap is that now my inlet is back on the passenger side, so my upper hose it not within 2mm of my AC compressor.



Also covered my fuse/relay panel with another piece of kydex:

 

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Looks like a nice radiator, I need to get one myself. How is that fan mounted?

Also noticed the pressure gauge there. Is that an oil pressure gauge?

I like the new cover for the fuse panel. Just a though, have you ever thunked (lol) about maybe using/drilling a hole to route some of the wires behind the inner fender well for a cleaner look?

I assume the zip ties are temporary? I was gonna ask if the radiator mounted up with stock brackets or if its possible to bolt it straight to the support.
 

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Discussion Starter #585
Looks like a nice radiator, I need to get one myself. How is that fan mounted?
With this kit:

FMK, Universal 4 Sides Electric Radiator Fan Mount Mounting Kit with Zip Tie Strap Lock and Tension Springs : Amazon.com : Automotive

Also noticed the pressure gauge there. Is that an oil pressure gauge?
Yes. I have a mechanical gauge under the hood, and the electrical one in the dash.

I like the new cover for the fuse panel. Just a though, have you ever thunked (lol) about maybe using/drilling a hole to route some of the wires behind the inner fender well for a cleaner look?
I have thought about trying to hide all the wiring and hoses in the fender wells, but that would be a major effort, and quite frankly I really just want to be driving the car right now. I'm ready to be done with working on it for a while (even though I'm not even close, but no sense in adding more projects)

I assume the zip ties are temporary? I was gonna ask if the radiator mounted up with stock brackets or if its possible to bolt it straight to the support.
The zip ties are temporary until I get some bolts lone enough to run from the bracket on it to the support (so it will be bolting directly to the support).

It would mount to a stock 1967-1970 bracket, but not a 65/66. Also I've modded my radiator support to accept the previous ginormous radiator, so there was no using the stock brackets on mine.
 

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Discussion Starter #586
Today I swapped out the leaf springs and shocks. It wasn't nearly as bad as I had expected. In fact it might have been the easiest thing I've done mechanically to the car yet. Here are a few pointers I have

You have to undo the top and bottom nut on the shackles. It took me a while to realize that the shackle bolts don't come out one at a time.

The front bolts are really bad about being rusted in place. I put an end wrench on the nut side of the bolt, and nothing on the back side, then smacked the wrench a few good times with the 3lb hammer, that busted the bolt side free from all the rust.

Getting the old rubber bushing outs from the shackle passages can be a pain. Use a really short screwdriver to pry them out.

I went with grab-a-track 4.5 leaf mid-eyes from Mustangs Plus and a set of adjustable Koni's from amazon (best price by a mile).

The Koni's are adjustable and I have them set way to stiff. One day when I'm bored I'll pull them and soften them up, but they are not adjustable on the car :(

Unfortunately, I accidentily deleted all the pictures I took, except for one showing the stance with the mid-eyes. Oh and a bonus video. Because I can finally do a burnout. With the old springs I had to much hop to lay down some rubber.



 

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Discussion Starter #587
I just ordered all the stuff I need or my attempt at DIY coil-overs, it was about the same price as a set of Koni's and roller spring perches. The only thing I won't be able to send back (as long as I am careful during assembly) are $16 worth of mounting brackets that I will be drilling a hole in.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hal-us402

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hal-bar500k

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hal-10-550

http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS+Performance+Products/555/64850/10002/-1







 

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Discussion Starter #592
I was so excited, all the stuff for my coil-over came in yesterday, and a server crashed today, resulting in me going home early :)

Unfortunately I have nothing but issues to report.

At some point QA1 changed the design of the 5" T-bar, it is no longer slotted, it now contains two round holes. These holes are too narrow for the UCA, so I will have to take the dremel to them and make them slotted like the old ones.

The shocks I ordered are too long. I based my length off of the shocks TCP sells, but then when you read the instructions all the way to the bottom, you see that a 65/66 mustang kit includes a raised upper mount, which moves the top of the shock 2" into the engine compartment. Since my mount hung upside 1", my shocks were 3" too long. I found some shorter shocks that might have worked, but they only had 2.75" on travel, which is way to short.

I started trying to look into what Ron Morris sells, because it looks just like a QA1 setup, and sure enough, they use the short QA1 with less than 3" of travel. So now I was starting to think about having to make a bracket that would move the mount up into the engine compartment.

That is when I ran across this wonderful thread right here:

65-66 CUSTOM MADE FRONT COILOVER SETUP IN PROGRESS | Mustang Forums at StangNet

Turns out someone has already been down this road, and even put together a parts list for everything I need to make this work.

Now this setup is not a full coil-over, because it uses the stock upper spring mount, but it does have a lower mount. So it will be more like a standard mustang setup, with a roller spring perch, and adjustable ride height.

Total price from summit for everything you need is $482. That is half what TCP or RMP want for their setups. If you were willing to fab an upper mount (so you could have a full coil-over), then you would be looking at about $515 because you would be spending extra to get the stud top mount conversion for the shock.
 

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Discussion Starter #594
That's a pretty slick custom set up. Sorry to hear about all your issues. Doesn't seem like anything goes as planned on these cars.
It's not that big of a deal, I expected more problems than this really. I mean trying to make a custom coil-over setup that most companies charge upwards of $800 for? The easy thing is that with the drop springs, I don't even need a spring compressor to get my springs out (just jack the car up and stand on the LCA and I have enough slack to yank the springs out), so it took me less than two hours to tear the upper suspsension apart, mock everything up, and then put it all back together. I just wish I found that other thread last week, because I would be almost done by now if I had ordered all of that stuff first.
 

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Discussion Starter #595
When people say that the arning drop is easy, I guess that is relative. With the 351w and the long tube headers, there is virtually no room to get a wrench on the nuts in the engine bay:



To do the drop, took me about 5 hours. 1 hour to unbolt the first nut. 1 hour to unbolt the 2nd nut. 1 hour to rebuild the UCA and drill the holes. 1 hour to tighten the 1st nut. 1 hour to tighten the 2nd nut.

The new UCA shafts are greasable :)



I forgot to snap a picture of my drop but you can see an unused set of holes up top:



I got a drop template from opentracker, that was 1" down 1/8" back (more caster).

Once I was done with the drop, I turned my attention to the coil-overs. First thing I had to do was slot the 5" T-bars. I slotted them using a drill press and a dremel:





QA1 single adjustable shock with 5" T-bar on bottom and 3" T-bar on top:



A unique coilspring, 2.5 inches on bottom, 4.1 inches on top:



The T-bar on bottom should give me the same upgrade as a roller spring perch. Since the spring mounts up top to the shock tower like a stock setup (instead of the the shock like a true-coilover) I'm not getting the full benefit of coil-overs, but I do still get the adjustability:





Up top it looks stock. I have made no changes to the car from stock:



Now I have to do the passenger side and go get an alignment.
 

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Discussion Starter #598 (Edited)
Looks good. It looks like that is set as low/soft as it goes. (unless I'm not understanding it) Or is there another way to adjust it if needed?
Low and soft are different settings. To lower the car, you run the spring seat up threaded body. Right now it is set 1/2" up from the bottom, I need to break out the spanner and raise it up, I'm just lazy. The springs are 450#, not much you can change there. But the shock has a rebound/compression adjustment knob I can turn to adjust them. It is set in the middle right now.
 

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Discussion Starter #599
With all of my suspension completely rebuilt, much to my dismay I'm still having problems with my tires rubbing. I've even rolled my front fenders, and I'm still having problems. I was thinking that one possible solution for my problem is a little more backspaceing on my rims. I bought 4.75, which was supposed to be good for my setup (1" drop, 17 x 8 tires), but I guess I got some bad advice right?

Nope, I think 4.75" of backspacing would be perfect. Too bad I only have 4.5". I have an invoice from Stant-aholics for 4.75" backspaced rims, but my tape measure doesn't lie, and I only have 4.5". I tried calling them, but they are closed until after new years. :(
I doubt they will want to work with me since the rims have 1000 or so miles on them, and they are almost 3 years old, but it would be stupid not to try and get them to replace the rims.





 
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