Modded Mustang Forums banner

781 - 800 of 885 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
457 Posts
hey AJ thanks again. I finished the gauge install on my jeep. I redesigned the logo a bit and ended up replacing all the gauges. I really like them. I am very pleasantly surprised with the speedometer. the instructions say that if the vehicle is in a steel building for more than 4 hours it may take up to a couple minutes for the speedometer to work. but that has not been the case. it seems to work just as well as the original. also after seeing your car I decided to plasti dip the chrome door handles on the jeep and that turned out better than expected to. anyway if you want to see what the gauges look like here they are. Jeep Yj MPFI conversion. - Page 15 - Garage Forum

I don't know about you, but I don't really know anyone close to home except my Dad with the same passion for cars I have so these forums are great for sharing ideas. thanks for putting all of your information into the forum it helps make this a great resource for all of us.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,351 Posts
Discussion Starter #782
I don't know about you, but I don't really know anyone close to home except my Dad with the same passion for cars I have
Jeep gauges look great.

Actually on pure luck I wound up with some pretty awesome neighbors. The guy to the right has a 65 fastback, and the guy to the left has a 66 Nova, 11 Viper, and 16 Hellcat.

We get wound up over cars all the time!!

However I still need the forums, neither of those guys do their own wrench turning, so I can't get any tech support there.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,351 Posts
Discussion Starter #783
I haven't been posting much lately but the car has been giving me fits for over a year now. Idle was rough and it would drive around okay, but if you got on it hard it would fall on its face around 4K, start backfiring and sputtering.

So bought new electronics for my petronix distributor and rebuilt it with no luck. Then I bought a cheap eBay distributor to slap in while I sent the pertnoix off for service, but I never sent it off because things were even worse with the new distributor. So I pulled the intake thinking I might have a vacuum leak. While I had the intake off I pulled the radiator because I needed to re-mount the fan and shroud (they vibrated a lot making tons of noise). I got the intake re-installed this week and was 100% positive it was on good with no leaks. But I still had the same problem.

At this point I started to blindly google symptoms I was seeing, and 90% of the hits all were for ford engines, and about half of those all pointed to the same cause: plug wire crossfire. Apparently the 302HO/351w firing order is heavily susceptible to cross fire if you get the plug wires running in parallel. So yesterday I rerouted all my plug wires, ensuring that they are at least 3" apart if running parallel, and that they only cross at 90 degree angles.

While still not running perfect, the car is way way better. I will rev up to 6K now with no sputtering or backfiring, and idle is very smooth. I do have some hesitation issues when gunning the throttle, but I think I need to tune the carb. I've never tuned the edelbrock since I replaced the summit because it was never running well enough to bother with it.

So Today's moral is pay attention to spark plug routing. What looks neat and organized isn't really great for some firing orders. Let Chaos reign.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,351 Posts
Discussion Starter #785
I'm running some pretty expensive MSD wires, I'd have to dig for receipts but I think I about over a Benjamin for them from Amazon. I might dig into something to combat it long term, but for now I'm happy just to have it running well again.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,351 Posts
Discussion Starter #786
THATS IT!!! IVE HAD IT!!! ENOUGH IS ENOUGH!!!!!

After seeming to run pretty decent for one afternoon, that car went right back to it's old shenanigans. At this point I'm 99% sure I've got a timing chain that jumped a tooth. I think this is the proverbial straw that broke the camels back. This motor has been nothing but crap since the day I started building it. The crank getting jacked up (and the re-man sucks, I get 12psi at hot idle), eating two cams, breaking my finger, always running hot, always leaking oil... and the damn thing just doesn't fit. I hate my swap headers, and I hate how little room there is in the engine bay.

I've convinced myself I need a 8.2 deck height motor. Now I'm debating whether to buy a crate motor or save some $$ and buy a 347 short-block so I can swap over the AFR heads.

I'm open to suggestions.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
457 Posts
first of all I am sorry to hear your engine is giving you such grief. you have definitely fought the good fight on it. If you are thinking of putting a new engine in, are you thinking of building one, or buying a pre-assembled shortblock. Fordstrokers.com sells both pre-assembled engines and unassembled. both 331 and 347. I am really happy with the DIY shortblock 331 stroker I built from ford strokers. the quality of the machine work was excellent and for the price you get some very high quality parts. with the AFR heads you already have, that would be a nice setup.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,351 Posts
Discussion Starter #788
I don't really want to build one, I just don't have the space in my new garage. A short block is the minimum I'll be willing to go for. I've looked at fordstrokers, CHP, and ADP. I know Woody uses DART blocks, but that doubles the price of everyone else short blocks (2200 for CHP and ADP vs 4000 for FS). Since I don't have any desire to break 400HP, I just don't know how i justify the cost of a fordstrokers unit with the DART block.

There is a local shop here that sells a 347 long block for $3800. I imagine if I took him my AFR heads, an intake, and an oil pan, I could get him to add it all to his normal long block package and walk out with a motor ready to drop in (LEAK FREE!!) for around $3500. The problem is I don't know anyone who has used the shop before. They have a 4.98/5.0 rating with the BBB with 26 customers reporting. I think if I use my AMEX I could probably get my money back if I had any problems. I would just drop the block off at his shop and call AMEX for a refund.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
457 Posts
wow, when I built my engine they were still offering the stock block stroker short blocks. I did not realize they quit offering that. I did read on the website if you have a stock 5.0 core they will build a stroker for you but would have to work up a quote on an individual basis. so it looks like that is not an option for you sorry. ford racing still offers a 331 short block for roughly the same price as ATK, personally when I researched my build I was looking at either chp or fordstrokers. I chose ford strokers because it offered some better components like a forged crank that I wanted, plus I wanted to build it myself. but if I was looking for an assembled shortblock I think that CHP is pretty hard to beat. anyway good luck with your decision.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,813 Posts
I know the tight engine bay is a pain, but would you really be happy with a 8.2 block after having the 9.5" The cost to buy/build either one is pretty much the same but with dramatically different power outputs.

If you can be happy with the 8.2 block then go with that. But if theres any doubt then I'd think twice.

I have looked at the various vendors and come to the conclusion that all of them build great stuff, it just depends on how "great" of a motor I really need to cruise around town. Sure a 427w would be sweet, but couldn't a well built 331/347 be just as fun? and it'd be a bit easier to change plugs on.

This seems like a nice deal, plus if you sold your heads/engine then it'd be even cheaper:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mll-bp3060ct/overview/make/ford
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,351 Posts
Discussion Starter #791
That is a pretty good deal, really right on par with what the local guy would build a 347 for. There is also a 306 short block for sale locally for $900. Advertised as fresh from the machine shop with forged heads and rods. Would put me at about 10.5:1 compression with my AFR heads.

As for the 9.5 vs 8.2....

I've found that I already had more power than I needed. I don't drag the car, it is only for weekend cruising. With it's weight and 245 tires, I can already launch in 2nd gear burning rubber and chirp the tires hitting third... all that with 2.79 gears. My 351 at .030 is really a 357, so a 347 is only giving up 10 cubes, and I'll be upgrading to a roller cam and higher compression (I'm at 8.8:1 right now), so I'm betting I would have no loss of power.

And I don't think you understand how tight it is... I have to break loose the motor mounts and jack the motor up to put plug wires on....
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
457 Posts
I built my 331 for my 89 convertible with 9.5:1 compression. I wanted to be able to run pump gas and I wanted to someday put a supercharger on it. so it is built pretty mild, but with very high end internals. having said that even in it's current low compression mild state it is a beast in that car. and I believe an 89 convertible is significantly heavier than a 65 coupe. (it is sure a lot harder to push anyway lol) I have never driven an automatic that will bark the tires when it upshifts from first to second. so I think you will have plenty of horsepower with a 302 based engine. and have a little more room under the hood. when you order through chp at least you can pick your compression ratio by which pistons you choose. then obviously the cam will decide what kind of engine you end up with. most people I talked with when I built my engine recommended a custom cam, I personally think you can talk with the people at comp cams and get a good off the shelf cam that will accomplish everything you need it to. I look forward to seeing your progress.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,351 Posts
Discussion Starter #793
So I pulled the trigger yesterday on the crate motor. I decided to order one from summit. I figure I have a higher probability of getting a lemon, but summit customer support has always been super fantastic for me, and I'd rather deal with a no quantity if I have problem than someone new to me (like CHP or a local machine shop). The one linked above was a 50oz imbalance, I would like to keep a 28oz imbalance because my flywheel and balancer are already setup for those, and it is period correct for the car. I could have bought a new balancer and flywheel cheaper than the price gap on the motors, but it would have only saved me a few hundred bucks. I went with this one:

ATK High Performance Ford 347 Stroker 410HP Stage 1 Crate Engines HP20 - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,351 Posts
Discussion Starter #797

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,813 Posts
Those are some nifty headers. They look very well made. I seem to recall hearing the Sanderson makes a special set of headers for the P heads also.

Which motor mounts did you get? I think they have 2 styles, one the drops 1/2" and one that allows side to side or front to back, been awhile since I looked.

What are you going to use for an intake?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,351 Posts
Discussion Starter #799
The FF3GTS are a modified FF3 that fit P heads

I got the standard height mounts with front/back + side to side adjustability. i heard the drop mounts can have issues with R&P systems..

I am leaning towards a Performer RPM, but am open to suggestions.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,813 Posts
With the shorter block height you should be able to run pretty much any intake. I have the air gap on mine and its very nice. I would at least go for the performer RPM with a motor like you have on order. The regular performer is just a stock replacement.
 
781 - 800 of 885 Posts
Top