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Discussion Starter #821
Amazon is having a sale today, 20% off anything that is considered an Amazon Warehouse deal. So I went through my wishlist to see what was available though the warehouse (usually open box stuff that has been returned). One of the items that was available was the lock-right kit for ford 8" and 9" rear ends.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B003JBTHX8/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The list price is $275 at amazon ($301 at summit), but the open box was only $131, I got another 20% off of that, so for $104 I can now convert my rear end to a locker. Hard to beat that.

I also picked up a 1-wire alternator for a 93 Taurus from the warehouse too (not as great of a deal, but still nice).

I just installed a new battery in the mustang 2 days ago while because my wiring issues had burned up the old one, and it is already toasted too, even though I have all the non-stock wiring disconnected. I guess something in my stock harness is burned up (probably from the fire). I'm going to bite the bullet and do the American Autowire Harness, I ordered it from MTF this morning.
 

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Discussion Starter #823
I spent several hours reading through the manual for the AAW harness, and looking at a couple of how-to threads on the internet. I must say I'm a little disappointed at some of the things not included in the harness considering how expensive it is, and how AAW bills it as being for "modern customized cars".

It doesn't have any wiring for Air conditioning controller. It doesn't include relays for the fan or power windows (only a fuse). And most importantly it doesn't include the necessary components to have the AC compressor turn the fan on when the AC starts.

So the things I have to keep from my existing wiring (and make sure they work properly) are all of the AC wiring, all of the electrical fan wiring, all of the power window wiring, and all of the audio wiring.


Today I ripped out the under-dash and engine wiring harnesses, and this is what I have left (99% AC system) that I need to figure out how to tuck up neatly inside the dash (bleh).

 

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Discussion Starter #827
Yes it is. And they have a circuit for the fan, windows, fuel pump etc, but it is just a fuse. You have to put in the relay and wire from the battery to relay, and relay to device.

I've got the fan figured out, now I'm planning the Windows, those cheap regulators I bought need a lot of juice. Also going with electric cutouts, so I have to plan that as well. I don't think they need a relay, that is a small motor.
 

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Discussion Starter #829
I'm putting on manual cutout now (just have a flange) from summit, but I'm going to go ahead and run wires while I'm doing the harness so that I can add electrical valves down the road).
 

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Discussion Starter #830
So today I got to spend a good solid 7 hours on the car. How much of a wiring harness can you do in 7 hours? Well that depends on a few things. First I wasted an hour getting the v-belt pulley off my alternator to put it on my new one wire. So that means I really on worked on wiring for six hours. Of those six I spent probably at least 30 minutes looking for various tools I couldn't find where I left last time... but that is probably par for the course of working on something so massive is spanning that you are going back and forth to all corners of the car... so we'll call it six hours.

In Six hours I cataloged all of the wires, deleted the ones I wouldn't be using, re-routed the NSS wire into the harness going straight to the solenoid (because I don't have a NSS and I didn't want to just jumper from the NSS relay to the Solenoid relay and have all that extra wire there), mounted the fuse box, ran the rear harness (taillights, rear blinkers, backup lights, license plate light, and fuel gauge) and the front harness (Headlights, front blinkers, fog lights, parking lights, electric fan). The fan wiring is hooked up from the fuse box to the water temperature switch, from there to the diodes that tie in with the AC compressor, and over to where I plan to mount the fan relay. I have not mounted the relay or hooked that up yet. I also got a 100-AMP fuse mounted in the engine bay that will tie into the alternator before heading back to the trunk where I am moving the battery to.

I didn't take many pictures because someone has already done a really good walkthrough on doing this exact harness with almost all of the exact same options I have. I bought some tech-flex to wrap all the wires in, but i found it was way too much trouble trying to put it on each branch. SO instead I covered the wires with a black cloth tape that looks very OEM and hides very well.

I also hid all of the wires for the front harness in the fender well. I drilled a hole in the firewall inside the fender to completely bypass the engine bay.

One of the surprises for me is how easy the connectors are going on. I had heard lots of nightmares about them. Rich was going to loan me the correct tool, but I forgot to remind him and I was impatient, so I've just been crimping them with needle nose pliers. It's a little tedious but works very well.

I did take two pictures just to prove I'm actually doing the project, maybe I'll get them up tomorrow.
 

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Discussion Starter #832
I'm not sure how all the wire hiding is going to work out just yet. The harness of the lights and fan are running in the drivers fender, and I will run all the solenoid and battery wires through the passenger fender. The distributor (and tach), oil, and water will have to be in the bay and just hid as best I can under the air cleaner etc. The wiring for the heater valve I think I can mostly hide under the export brace.

The AC plumbing won't get hidden. I would have to break loose the AC lines (which would mean an evacuate and charge of the system) and have new longer hoses made so that I could route them through the fenders. I'm not going to those lengths, my car isn't a six figure car.








That last pic is the key to AC and electric fans. A wire from the temperature switch going into a diode, the wire from the compressor going into a diode, and then those two wires together going to the fan. The diodes act like one-way valves, they keep electricity from flowing backwards. Otherwise every time you turned your fan on the AC clutch would engage, which would be very bad.
 

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I'm not sure how all the wire hiding is going to work out just yet. The harness of the lights and fan are running in the drivers fender, and I will run all the solenoid and battery wires through the passenger fender. The distributor (and tach), oil, and water will have to be in the bay and just hid as best I can under the air cleaner etc. The wiring for the heater valve I think I can mostly hide under the export brace.

The AC plumbing won't get hidden. I would have to break loose the AC lines (which would mean an evacuate and charge of the system) and have new longer hoses made so that I could route them through the fenders. I'm not going to those lengths, my car isn't a six figure car.








That last pic is the key to AC and electric fans. A wire from the temperature switch going into a diode, the wire from the compressor going into a diode, and then those two wires together going to the fan. The diodes act like one-way valves, they keep electricity from flowing backwards. Otherwise every time you turned your fan on the AC clutch would engage, which would be very bad.
I recently re-wired my entire 1970 with an AAW update kit and it was a son of a bitch. I wish you luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #834
Last weekend I got the rest of the engine bay wired up (alternator, solenoid, grounding etc) and got all of the interior stuff routed. All I have to the steering column, gauge cluster, and console. I'm hoping to get a little done tomorrow (maybe the gauge cluster) and then finish the steering column and console next weekend. I also have to mount the battery in the trunk and make a few changes back there to accommodate the amp and battery both being in the trunk.
 

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Discussion Starter #835
Well Rich sent over a set of crimpers for me to borrow, and it really sped things up. I managed to do the steering column wiring, the gauge cluster, and most of my console today. I even set the battery in the trunk and tested everything. All I have left to do now is finish up the console wiring (Power windows and stereo). I also had to order the special LED compatible flashers from AAW because the flashers are built into the fuse panel now, so you can't use the external one like I had.

Hopefully I'll have it ready to fire up on Friday and maybe even get it up to the muffler shop.
 

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Discussion Starter #836
Finally got some real time in the garage today.

*Installed the new PMGR starter
*Installed the negative disconnect switch
*Finished installing battery in trunk
*Wired up console
*Tested all wiring
* Only thing that doesn't work is the wipers. But all the wiring checks out, I'm wondering if I didn't short the motor somehow when I had the fire (I haven't used wipers since then)
*Fired the car up
*Fiddled with the carb (car was idling at 3200 RPM with no throttle)
*Blew eight 150 AMP fuses


I'm having two problems, kind of inter-related.

The PMGR starter is really slow and hard to get rolling. The first few turns are really a struggle, almost like I've got a hot car and too much advance, but this happens even when it is cold. After about 3 rotations the speed picks up, everything sounds nice, and the car will fire off.

The labored starts are blowing the 150 AMP fuses I have in the trunk on the main line from the battery to the alternator. Right now I have the fuse bypassed.

List of things to tweak, tune, fix

*I have an oil leak at the back of the intake manifold to fix.
*Need to try and get the adjustable motor mounts to move the engine forward about 1/2" to get the Z-bar squared up
*Clutch needs to be adjusted out, it goes too far down and won't release
*Tidy up wiring behind console








 

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Discussion Starter #837 (Edited)
I fixed 3 of my four problems today.

* To fix the oil leak I loosened the back 6 bolts on the intake manifold, cleaned the back really well with some brake cleaner, and laid a nice thick bead of RTV black on there. I let it set for an hour and torqued the intake all the way around. No more leak.

* Cleaning up the wiring was easy enough, but I think I'm going to make some panels to extend from the console back to the firewall to really hide all the stuff that is up under there including the quick connectors etc.

* I got to thinking (bad idea I know), and I decided it didn't make sense to move the engine forwards unless I absolutely had to. I don't have huge clearance between my fan and water pump pulley, and physics etc. says the engine should be as low and back as possible. My first thought was to try and find a way to modify the z-bar stud adapter then bolts to the bell housing (bc the roller blocks don't have a tapped hole), but I couldn't see a real good way to do that. Moving it back would be easy with some shims, but moving forward was another story. Finally I decided I thought I could modify the frame side stud adapter, so that is what I did:

The slotted holes are the stock ones, and the round holes are the new ones I punched. Fits perfectly square now.



I still need to adjust the clutch. Not only does it not return easily, but it doesn't let go until my knee is into the steering wheel. Hopefully I can knock that out one night this week.

I also moved the battery from the trunk to the engine bay (temporarily) and it solved all of the hard starting issues. So I definitely have a problem with grounding in the trunk or voltage drop on the line. I ordered 50ft of 1/0 welding cable so I can run some new lines and hopefully that will fix the problem and I can return the battery to the trunk.

For now though it is running well enough to get to the muffler shop so they can close the gap between my new shorties and where the exhaust met the long-tubes. I'll have them install the cut-outs while I am there.
 

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Discussion Starter #839
No sub-frames. The 1/0 welding cable came in today, I will run a piece under the car from the block and bolt it to the floor of the trunk, and then ground the battery to the bolt that sticks through. That will create a good grounding system in the back half of the car.
 

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Discussion Starter #840
I bought these little temperature switches that install in your manifold to trigger my electric fan. They turn on at 180 and off at 165. The problem is that the probe is at the very middle of a big block of metal, and by time the tiny probe gets to 180, the engine temp is over 240 (I'm not sure what would take, because I shut it down at 240).

I am either going to have to find some 150 degree switches, or swap to a radiator fin probe.



I also fixed the underside of the hood from the fire damage. I used a scrapper to get the big pieces to flake off, then feathered all the edges with 220. Whatever pain Rich used is tough as nails, because 220 barely cut it. I spent two hours sanding and went through a dozen sheets of paper. I really wish I had bought something a little tougher to cut the edges with. I forgot to snap a picture of the painted and cleared underside before installing.







 
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