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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys, I'm new here but not new to Stangs.

I'm putting an 8.8" out of an '07 GT/CS (3k miles) into my '06 V6 manual.

I've got the Cobra pinion flange and I know how to set the pinion bearing preload (if I could only find a cheap 1/4" torque wrench!).

The 8.8 has UCAs, calipers & rotors still on it.

I'm a shadetree mechanic with power, air, and rattle gun. I have help. My question is: how long should this take?

Are the LCA & UCA the same for the V6 as the GT?

I need a new differential housing bushing, so I was thinking I'd just buy the Prothane rear control arm kit (Prothane 6-312) that includes the differential bushing and install them all.

I was thinking of throwing in a pair of KYB gas-a-justs at the same time since I'll be back there anyway.

Thoughts and comments encouraged, wise-ass comments encouraged. :) If you have any links to someone that's already done the swap, please feel free to share.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks man. I found MM when 07StangGT (Rich) told me about it. I got my C&L from him.
 

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A rear diff with air tools shouldn't take any longer than 2 hrs. I'm not sure if the driveshaft flanges line up though. (If they're different GT-V6)
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks. Yes, I did the swap a couple weeks ago and actually used that guide a little bit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
The guide or the new rear axle?

The guide helped a little bit with torque values.

The rear end helped a lot. Now when I launch, I can get a little wheel spin and hook up instead of having one wheel go up in smoke and have to lift.

The 3.55 helped move 1-2 gears closer together. I think 3.73 would be ideal for the street, but I can drive around the 3.55. I couldnt' drive around the chasm between 1-2 with the 3.31.
 

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very nice... did you feel any difference with the control arms? would u recommend it? im saving to get a 373 take off rear end.. hopefully i can get it soon
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Yes, the prothane bushings do make a difference, I had bad wheel hop when I spun the one wheel on wet pavement, now the wheel hop is not so bad. I did not replace the body-side UCA bushing because it would have added at least 30 minutes to the job and I was tight on time. At some point, I will probably go back in and replace that bushing.

I would recommend doing the control arm bushings, but it does make it a bigger job. Plan on an additional 1.5-2hrs for the bushings. Make sure you use plenty of bushing lube (I used the supergrease that comes with prothane bushings.

I used a torch to burn the hold bushings out of the bushing shells, but if I had it to do over again, I would use a properly sized hole saw to (I have a $5 set from harbor freight) drill out the rubber and then a properly sized steel wire wheel on the remaining rubber inside the bushing shell.

While you're saving, here's a link you might find helpful. :)

Car Parts - 3.73 8.8 mustang | Craigslist Search
 
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