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On the 9" ends... what holds the axles in if theres no C clips ?

Oh and over on fbp, didnt it turn out the flyinryan was also people champ ? I tried hanging out there but other then the first few months, it died.
 

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The Big Spoon
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3,214 Posts
makes sense about flyinryan!

Willy, where do you get unicorn poop? I'have been looking for that stuff high and low - much better than gorilla glue and jb weld.
 

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Priest of the Car Gods
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Just FYI, if you're not drag racing, a stock 8.8 will likely be plenty strong. It's the torque-shock of a drag-lauch that breaks things, not rolling on the throttle coming out of a corner. Now, that's not to say don't build your 8.8, but I wouldn't go crazy building a rear end that can handle >9000 lb-ft of torque for a road-race car, as you're just adding unsprung weight that you don't need.

Also, if you're not drag racing, I'd go with a Torsen T2-R, not a Detroit, definitely do whatever you need to do to eliminate the C-clips, and then spend some of that money you're talking about on a disc brake conversion (assuming you still have drums).
 

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mr. chokebot
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749 Posts
Discussion Starter #30
It's going behind a 408, so I'm erring on the side of caution.

What are some advantages of a T-2 over the TruTrac? The TT was recommended by a friend of my father, who has done road racing since the 70's.

Yep, still have drums. Either Baer or Wilwood, haven't made up my mind yet. The Wilwood I can get at-cost, so that's pretty attractive.
 

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Priest of the Car Gods
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I'm not an expert when it comes to the differneces in the behaviors between different limited-slip differentials, but my understanding is that Detroits come on more aggressively, which can unsettle the car under hard acceleration. The R version of the Torsen T2 is what I've seen Griggs recommend and use (I believe MaxMo as well), and apparently it basically acts like a spool except in low-speed cornering situations, which makes it very predictable. Basically, instead of being open until the unit senses slip, the T2R is locked under normal conditions, and allows slip as necessary.

I'm not sure if the T2R has the fault like other torsens where if one wheel completely loses grip (i.e. in the air) they act like an open diff. I'd assume not, but I'd double check that assumption before spending a grand on a differential.

Someone with more personal experience may have more to add.
 

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Muratic acid will wipe that rust away from a cheap spray bottle. Very caustic though, must be used outside or in a WELL ventilated area. Just keep hosing it down periodically. Will etch concrete too, FYI, so don't go crazy. Rinse when done and abruptly dry and coat it.
 
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