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Looking for some advice... Helped a friend of mine with heads and cam swap in his tired 95 GT, car ran mint for about 3 weeks then slowly started dying. First died at red lights then would only idle and now won’t start at all. Been through all the tests sent distributer back to Performance Distributers sent a new unit out didn’t fix it, checked TPS voltage it’s right where it needs to be so it’s not shutting the injectors off, the only thing left is the PCM but I have never seen one fail. The car runs when we use some starting fluid so it has to be a failed component Anything I may have for got to check any advice would be great Thanks!
 

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Im guessing you checked for codes? Id suspect the pip sensor at this point.


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Discussion Starter #3
Performance distributer sent a new unit out unless it’s bad right outta the box I think that should be good
 

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You're absolutely right about your problem being a Fuel issue,since its requiring an alternate fuel source to start and its actually able to start period.IOW - if the no start was due to a no spark issue,it would not have started at all,even with the alternate fuel source.....
A no start due to a fuel issue is usually either low/no fuel pressure,no injector pulse or a engine flood condition.However,since the engine is requiring you to add a alternate fuel source to allow startup,an engine flood condition can likely be ruled out,which should also rule out the possibility of a stuck open/leaking FPR or leaking injector.
If you cant hear the fuel pump running its 2-5 second priming sequence when the key is turned on,check the inertia switch first to make sure its not tripped.If its good & the pump is running its priming sequence,try cycling the key on/off (for a few seconds each time) 4-5 times then attempt a startup.If it starts,thats usually an indicator of a weak fuel pump or possibly a leak inside the tank,like a leaking fuel pump "S" hose or a split fuel supply pipe on the fuel pump hanger assembly.If it still doesn't start,do this to make sure injector pulse is present:: Use a noid light or test light for this test.Disconnect the easiest to access injector harness plug.If using a test light, once you disconnect whichever injector harness plug you're gonna use for testing, get a paperclip to insert down into one of the harness plug terminals,then attach your test light clip to the paperclip.Touch your test light probe to the other plug terminal then get an assistant to crank the engine with the key.If assistant isnt available,make sure the transmission is in neutral (T5) park (AOD) & use a long screwdriver to jump across both large posts on the fender mounted solenoid and this will manually crank the engine over.Do NOT fail to put the shifter in N or P or your car will run you and everything else over,because when you jump the solenoid it bypasses the clutch safety & neutral safety switch.Once the starter begins turning over,the noid/test light should flash repetitively if the pip sensor is working.If the light flashes,you've got injector pulse.A fuel pressure test should be done now.
KOEO= 35-45psi
KOER= 30-40psi
 

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The Ford Bronco motor mounts from the last gen Bronco with 351 keep the motor low. Regardless unless you do a lot of work its hard to do it and not install a 3" cowl hood so FYI on that. Fox 351 swap headers also fit with some hammering
Performance distributer sent a new unit out unless it’s bad right Sarkari Result Pnr Status 192.168.1.1 outta the box I think that should be good
 
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