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About a month ago, my mustang died in traffic after spending quite a while crawling along. At first, I thought it was the alternator or poor electrical connection, as a jump from my buddy brought it back to life, and later on after detaching and reattaching the terminals it was running fine. Gave it no more thought.

Well, that didn't fix the problem! Last week I died in traffic on the interstate on the way down to tail of the dragon in NC. We thought it might be fuel, so we replaced the fuel filter (it was completely disgusting in there, definitely needed to be done!) and it started up again. 5 miles down the road I broke down again....still in traffic. After 20 minutes or so of waiting, I got it going again and it ran well as long as I was moving.

When the issue is about to occur, I can tell as the throttle can be depressed 10-15% and it feels like it bogs, before moving to e.g. 20% and it will jump as if i stabbed it straight from 0 to 20%. As long as I am driving, the car will not die, but as soon as I go to idle it will start to dip from usual 650-750 to 400 and back again a few times before just dying. It is hard to start after this - it will crank a lot, giving it a lot of gas can sometimes get it to start but usually it just turns over a couple times and makes a few popping sounds before dying. If I wait 15 minutes it will start up and run fine.

Any advice? Only CEL is P1443 (intermittent, ordered new solenoid valve), recently had the DPFE/EGR code (P0402 excessive egr?) and replaced those components, as well as spark plugs. I got 23.5 mpg on the drive home going relatively quickly on the highway, so I don't think the car is having an issue while it's moving properly.

Troubleshooting steps/recent maintenance so far:

Ordered IAC & charcoal solenoid valve
Replace fuel filter
Replace DPFE
Replace EGR Valve
Replace Spark Plugs
Replace Coil Pack
Clean MAF & air temp sensor
Inspect Throttle Body (clean)
Verify electric fan turns on and off (it does!)
Replace PCV valve
Monitor temps with OBDII reader (died at 206~208, was doing fine driving aggressively at low speeds at 210-212. A few times during this monitoring the sensors would go whacky e.g. -4 F coolant readout - obviously wrong, throttle position would go 10-15-20-75-80-85-30-35... as I gradually pressed the pedal, reflected in the car bogging a little during those occasions)
 

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I have the exact same issue with my 96gt, exactly how you describe it. I have not been able to figure it out.

I think I have it narrowed down to the battery connection. Because, there are two small diameter ground wires that hook to the negative terminal. I cut one of them short and it was completely corroded inside so I am assuming the other one is in the same condition and the whole wire may be corroded.

I am replacing these wires today so I will be sure to post my results. I am assuming this may fix my issue because I kept starting the car over many times and wiggling the battery terminal in different spots each time and sometimes it would start up just fine and other times it would struggle to start if it started at all. So hopefully this is a solution.

---------- Post added at 06:37 AM ---------- Previous post was at 06:34 AM ----------

Oh and P1443 is most likely your solenoid valve, they get stuck alot.
 

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Fusible link? I had that happen once. Same symptoms.
 

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Sounds like symptoms of a faulty fuel pump. If your fuel filter looked disgusting imagine your fuel pump. I do not know the procedure to measure fuel pressure on a pump but my gut feeling is that the pump is slowly dying and it needs to be replaced. I would recommend a 255lph unit such as TRE, Walboro, or BBK. Update the thread and let us know how it works out.
 

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U said pumping the gas alot or holding gas peddle helps it to start easier? Pumping gas peddle or holding it down on a fuel injected car tells the computer not to send gas or reduce the amount not add more
 

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Thats how i understand it. Pumping gas just opens the T/B and the T.P.S tell the ecu. There is no conection to fuel tell after the ecm says to send fuel and opening the T.P.S says no more fuel or less
 

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Fusible link? I had that happen once. Same symptoms.
Which fuses would be the ones to check? I should probably just check all of them.

---------- Post added at 06:35 AM ---------- Previous post was at 06:33 AM ----------

Sounds like symptoms of a faulty fuel pump. If your fuel filter looked disgusting imagine your fuel pump. I do not know the procedure to measure fuel pressure on a pump but my gut feeling is that the pump is slowly dying and it needs to be replaced. I would recommend a 255lph unit such as TRE, Walboro, or BBK. Update the thread and let us know how it works out.
I will check the fuel filter when I get home later today. I agree with you, I think its my fuel pump thats going bad. Ive already cleaned the battery terminals and made sure theres no corrosion anywhere, even within the wires themselves.

---------- Post added at 06:37 AM ---------- Previous post was at 06:35 AM ----------

U said pumping the gas alot or holding gas peddle helps it to start easier? Pumping gas peddle or holding it down on a fuel injected car tells the computer not to send gas or reduce the amount not add more
No, I think pumping the gas kind of gave me a sense that it would start up but I dont believe it was actually helping.

Once the car is started and driving, pressing the gas peddle bogs it down. So engaging the gas makes it worse.
 

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Yep. Remember these cars are nearing 20-25 years now depending on which year you have so if the car has more than 130k on it I would replace it. I'm still around 103k on my 96 GT but I am eventually going to upgrade it to better flowing unit.
 

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I know its been a couple of weeks, but over this week I raised up the car and dropped the fuel tank. First I replaced the fuel filter. The old one had nasty nasty rusted color fuel that drained from it, not a good sign.

I replaced the fuel pump with a brand new walbro 255lph kit. The old pump assembly was deteriorating, bad. The pump itself was all rusted and the hose was brittle and falling apart. I took the hose and stretched it a little bit and you could see straight through it, through the lining and everything. The old filter was just not even recognizable.

I also replaced the filler neck grommet just to go full circle. But anyways, after installing the new parts and cleaning it up, it definitely resolved my issue. The car immediately starts right up strong, took it for a spin and there hasn't been any issues at all.

What I learned from this is that if you have never looked at your fuel pump and its been over 100k miles, it would be a good idea to take a look. I was really surprised at the amount of rust and dirt I had.
 

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I know its been a couple of weeks, but over this week I raised up the car and dropped the fuel tank. First I replaced the fuel filter. The old one had nasty nasty rusted color fuel that drained from it, not a good sign.

I replaced the fuel pump with a brand new walbro 255lph kit. The old pump assembly was deteriorating, bad. The pump itself was all rusted and the hose was brittle and falling apart. I took the hose and stretched it a little bit and you could see straight through it, through the lining and everything. The old filter was just not even recognizable.

I also replaced the filler neck grommet just to go full circle. But anyways, after installing the new parts and cleaning it up, it definitely resolved my issue. The car immediately starts right up strong, took it for a spin and there hasn't been any issues at all.

What I learned from this is that if you have never looked at your fuel pump and its been over 100k miles, it would be a good idea to take a look. I was really surprised at the amount of rust and dirt I had.
I knew it! Thank you for reporting back and telling us how the car felt afterward. :smile2: I am going to do new fuel pump myself even though my car doesn't show any signs of failure. It is just one of those maintenance items that should be done.
 

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Yeah I got the bbk 255lph from american muscle. The pump is actually a walbro. It comes with all the necessary hardware, super easy to install. The only difficult part was dropping the tank. When the car starts it runs very very smooth. Although now I have run into another problem, which I think I have an electrical short somewhere..

I was going to start a new thread on my new issue but I can start here. So first off when I put the key in and turn to accessory the "power" of coming on seems to be struggling. Like the gauges will flicker and the "ding" sound that you get when your door is open fades in and out, more like a weaker sounding "ding", if that makes any sense. Usually, if I start the car initially it will start up, power will be fine and everything. But if I roll down the windows or press the brake, the battery voltage gauge decreases significantly, but will return to normal when doing nothing. Now when I shut the car off, remove the key and let it rest, I will try again. Most time, the power now will be even weaker than before and struggle to start, sometimes as if there is no power coming through and ill get that clicking sound. Its not the battery because the battery is brand new and I have tested it myself. The battery cables to the terminals are clean and I even replaced the grounds. Still having same symptoms.
 

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What is your battery reading when you turn the key to accessory. Make sure you do not have a battery drain somewhere. I would also check your ground wire to make sure it is not lose. Is your alternator charging the battery when you drive the car, if not then your new battery will get weaker and weaker.
 

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I am not sure what it reads when turned to accessory. I will check when I get home. I checked previously that the battery reads 12-13 Volts when off, and right around 14.2 Volts with the car running. Also the alternator reads high 15 with the car running. All cables to the terminal are clean and tight. I am thinking I could have a bad ground somewhere? What would be the best way to explore a solution for that?
 
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