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Discussion Starter #1
Next week I'm taking my teksid block to the machine shop, i think it will be bored .020 over. I've been looking for complete rotating assemblies and the price is really close to the price of a complete short block, the only difference is that i wont get an aluminum block. I'm planning to go f/i next year, nothing more than 450 hp.
Would you guys go with a forged short block or reuse the aluminum block and throw all forged internals?
Is probe industries any good?
Where can I find a complete engine gasket set?
Also, the engine is going in with long tube headers, I've heard that the egr tube has to be modified. What kind of modification is needed?
Thanks
 

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If you're looking for only 450hp why would you want to use another block? I'm pretty sure both the teksid and WAP blocks are good for a bit more than that. Also, I've heard good things about Probe, also check out DSS Racing =D
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I was just thinking in the cost effect, the short block has warranty but the probe kit is 1100 cheaper than the short block.
I'll check DSS, thanks.
 

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I am running Probe pistons and I have already made 785 rwhp and will be over 800rwhp once my fuel system is finished. Good stuff.
 

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Next week I'm taking my teksid block to the machine shop, i think it will be bored .020 over. I've been looking for complete rotating assemblies and the price is really close to the price of a complete short block, the only difference is that i wont get an aluminum block. I'm planning to go f/i next year, nothing more than 450 hp.
Would you guys go with a forged short block or reuse the aluminum block and throw all forged internals?
Is probe industries any good?
Where can I find a complete engine gasket set?
Also, the engine is going in with long tube headers, I've heard that the egr tube has to be modified. What kind of modification is needed?
Thanks


Number one: Do NOT bore .020 over

For internals: Stock crank, used cobra rods or some probes, cp pistons

If you are doing headers, get the best: Kooks or American racing. The rest is are very marginal at best.

heads: Serdi valve job at the least.
Intake: SSR intake (talk to na_svt if you dont want to do it yourself)

block: make sure to align hone, and make sure they have a torque plate for a modular sized engine. The aluminum blocks are very finicky to clearances, and I advise you to pick up a book on modulars before you send your block out.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I was told that it can be bored .020 over. And I cant reuse my cranks since #7 rod bearing spun.
 

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I was told that it can be bored .020 over. And I cant reuse my cranks since #7 rod bearing spun.
You don't want to.

Decide what you are doing with the engine and buy parts before waisting money at the machine shop. Been there, done that.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
The block does not need to be bored, so everything is staying at std, I'm going to buy a complete kit from probe industries, crank, rods, pistons, bearings and rings. I feel a lot comfortable knowing that it's staying in std.
Does somebody know where to get a complete gasket set. Modmax has it for $460.
Are the headbolts, main bolts and rod bolts reusable?
 

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Why would you not want to bore .020 over. Isn't that usually a safe bore for these motors? Please explain why this shouldn't be done, becauase I am looking into rebuilding my engine and do forged internals. The mechanic said I should bore .020 over as well. Thanks.
 

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Why would you not want to bore .020 over. Isn't that usually a safe bore for these motors? Please explain why this shouldn't be done, becauase I am looking into rebuilding my engine and do forged internals. The mechanic said I should bore .020 over as well. Thanks.
Bore deflection @ high boost/hp levels

max you want to go overbore is .006ish
 

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The block does not need to be bored, so everything is staying at std, I'm going to buy a complete kit from probe industries, crank, rods, pistons, bearings and rings. I feel a lot comfortable knowing that it's staying in std.
Does somebody know where to get a complete gasket set. Modmax has it for $460.
Are the headbolts, main bolts and rod bolts reusable?
Why not just get your crank turned?

Non of the above bolts are reusable. I *believe* the jacking screws on 98 and earlier cobras are reusable.
 

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^^^ I'm going to side with John Mihovetz. But that is all I will say.
 

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^^^ I'm going to side with John Mihovetz. But that is all I will say.
Apples to oranges. Mihovetz runs 60 lbs of boost in his engines...
 

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Also keep in mind that Mihovetz is spinning his engine over 9000 rpms lol
 

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^personally, I'd even say even up to 30 psi would be totally fine...
 
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